2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

My best guess would be gravity should be able to drain out the excess as long as everything is level. Unless somehow maybe excess oil became vapor locked & wouldn't drain out? Maybe vapor locked isn't the right term. like holding your finger over the end of a drinking straw full of water. I would think there is way to much air in that cavity for that too happen though.

Are the engines that easily accessible in the sportster & speedster boats? I have never worked on one, or seen one to be honest. the engine bay that is....

Sportster is pretty easy to access from the top.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

It's possible to run the plug all the way in and drop it into the housing, flush is good.

Is this one ok too?
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/1-oz-pipe-jt-comp-with-teflon/967137



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Waterluvr]

Just use some Loctite 518 on it, that will seal those threads. I dip a q-tip in solvent to clean the inner cone threads of oil so the sealant bonds to it and the plug. That's not a miracle of modern day engineering how they designed that anti-rattle cone and plug assembly with the sketchy o-ring seal, I figure you're far better off replacing the whole cone with a new one if need be when it's time to service the pump than ever risking that plug leaking and tearing things up.

As you know, water makes for terrible gear lube.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Well, saw milk tonight :-D

Weather became very warm in the afternoon. So I bought the Oatey Pipe sealant with Teflon and put on the plug screw to flush not as tight as the first time. Went out with friend fishing. Didn't drive long, about 2 miles total. Didn't get anything but had a good relax and good drive. Probably the last warm day of the year.

Was planning to take the impeller off for SBT's exchange program before I get too busy into business. But when I opened the plug, I saw milk there. Water got in.
I guess it is my mistake again: didn't wait the sealant to cure, or I should've tightened it same as the first time.

The shaft is still a little binding, but still can be turned by hand. And still stuck in the bearing, won't slide out. I thought the 10+ miles of running should free it somewhat. :-D
But it looks like nobody wanted to give in.

I put the pump up side down to see if I can get most of the milk out and put new oil in.

But I do need a new pump for spare now. $400 for a plastic pump with everyone except the impeller and cone.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Waterluvr]

Here's your issue, every time a threaded assembly is taken apart and put back together the sharp outside edge of the threads are worn down and that decreases the bearing surfaces of both objects and their ability to seal.

I have never, ever had a leak using the 518 flange seal on the backside of the o-ring and using hydraulic sealant on the plug so long as it passed a pressure test prior to the plug going in and it was able to snug up before dropping below the top of the cone threads. If it feels like it will turn down into the cone get a new one the threads are to worn to trust.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Here's your issue, every time a threaded assembly is taken apart and put back together the sharp outside edge of the threads are worn down and that decreases the bearing surfaces of both objects and their ability to seal.

I have never, ever had a leak using the 518 flange seal on the backside of the o-ring and using hydraulic sealant on the plug so long as it passed a pressure test prior to the plug going in and it was able to snug up before dropping below the top of the cone threads. If it feels like it will turn down into the cone get a new one the threads are to worn to trust.

I believe the pump failed the same way in the first time. I was worried about threading through the hole...
Luckily i checked this time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Waterluvr]

Just get a new cone and plug, WSM makes a nice aftermarket for your pump and it comes complete with a new spring/pusher and o-ring.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Good info ragtop, thanks for looking into this for us. And I agree, it's not likely the oil will drain from behind the bearing race very quickly if at all, nor will we be able to completely remove the CB oil, probably not even 50% of it is my pure guess..

I'm planning to top mine off to the bottom of the threads and be happy knowing there's an adequate quantity, will be using gear oil for this.

The CB fill plug is fairly easy to access and of course we can level the crankshaft stern to bow, and the hull fairly closely, I really don't think it's necessary to have exactly 40ml there as long as the gears are running in a bath we should be good to go.

I just didn't want to overfill b/c in my experience having too much hydraulic pressure build up is worse than not having it completely full.

Thanks again, man!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, it's important to keep an eye on the pump bearing oil. The impeller shaft is only turning at near 7000 RPM and the pressure differential must be pretty high there, such a small amount of oil as well.

At least you still had oil in there. I'm also surprised the bearing didn't loosen up.... Hmm...

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I believe the pump failed the same way in the first time. I was worried about threading through the hole...
Luckily i checked this time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you pressurize the hub before removing the cone while the contaminated oil was still in the hub? This might reveal a leak around the cone seal.

I had water in my pump twice, once when I first brought it home there was saltwater in the oil and a 2nd time I blame on overfilling the hub milkshake was in there. Both times I just used compressed air to blow as much of the contaminated oil out as I could and then reassembled.

 

[68ragtop]

What type of bearings are used in the drive? I am 99.9% unfamiliar with anything but PWC's So, I shouldn't even
comment on your leaking drive. But the reason I am anyway is because I have had issues with my 4tec GTX.
It uses a double row thrust bearing like the one in the picture below.

My pump was junk when I bout the ski. I replaced all the parts, including the sleeve, bearing & seals. all oem parts just last summer. This spring I opened it up to check on it & was shocked to find water in the housing! :facepalm: I pressure tested the housing & it held 5lbs for seemingly forever. I was very confused, but then I realized this double row bearing has a little bit of radial play. I decided to wiggle the impeller back & forth. at first it seemed like it made no difference, but then I saw my needle drop just a little. I kept wiggle the shaft & sure enough, the pressure was escaping. So, I found the waters way in. Too much radial play & the seal can't maintain its fit. Not sure if all of these bearings have radial play, but this one does, & I am guessing so did the one before it. I have not bought another one yet at they cost something like $80.00 if I remember correctly?

Now, all that being said your drive is probably completely different & is probably the caged needle bearing style, but I thought it might be worth mentioning anyway...... 68RT

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, caged needle bearings on the Sportster jet pump, same pump as your DI ski. I think it's near impossible to expect no water gets in these but after rebuilding his (no oil was found, only water, ruined the bearings), Bonmotwang ran the boat for a day or so and there was no water. Then not sure what happened but now he has found water.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Yep, caged needle bearings on the Sportster jet pump, same pump as your DI ski. I think it's near impossible to expect no water gets in these but after rebuilding his (no oil was found, only water, ruined the bearings), Bonmotwang ran the boat for a day or so and there was no water. Then not sure what happened but now he has found water.

I opened the plug to check the water. All good. But I didn't tighten it tight enough, hoping the pipe sealant will seal the thread in 30 minutes. Then after 2 Km of driving I found water in the oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Yep, it's important to keep an eye on the pump bearing oil. The impeller shaft is only turning at near 7000 RPM and the pressure differential must be pretty high there, such a small amount of oil as well.

At least you still had oil in there. I'm also surprised the bearing didn't loosen up.... Hmm...

I was totally surprised by the tightness too. But I guess it makes sense. If after only 2 hours of driving, any material got removed from the bearing or shaft in a way you can detect or feel, doesn't it mean something really bad is going to happen in another few hours :-D ??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

This is the milk shake

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Ah yes, that one is made using TFE particles suspended in vegetable oil I think. So probably the threads were not tight fitting enough and I suspect the Oatey will take weeks to dry and thicken thus really isn't viscus or waterproof enough for the loose fit of our threads.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

This is the milk shake

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh boy, that's pretty milky! I don't think you have much to lose if the bearings fail again but that much water leaking in a short time will quickly become a problem for the bearing lubrication.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Ah yes, that one is made using TFE particles suspended in vegetable oil I think. So probably the threads were not tight fitting enough and I suspect the Oatey will take weeks to dry and thicken thus really isn't viscus or waterproof enough for the loose fit of our threads.

Yes!!! I saw particles in it! Was wondering if this is the right stuff. I will take a look into loctite 567 when it arrives on Wednesday.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I opened the plug to check the water. All good. But I didn't tighten it tight enough, hoping the pipe sealant will seal the thread in 30 minutes. Then after 2 Km of driving I found water in the oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this pipe sealant isn't thick enough for our threads, and it probably isn't waterproof enough.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Oh boy, that's pretty milky! I don't think you have much to lose if the bearings fail again but that much water leaking in a short time will quickly become a problem for the bearing lubrication.

Probably the tightness is from the short of lubrication too. But it was a very short kids fishing trip.

You mentioned pressure in the hub or cone.
When I opened the plug, it was not pressurized, nothing overflows out. So I tilt the pump and let the milk shake to go out.
But when I was loosening the 3 screws on the cone, cone popped open and clear water came out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Waterluvr]

Yes!!! I saw particles in it! Was wondering if this is the right stuff. I will take a look into loctite 567 when it arrives on Wednesday.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have to hand it to you, you aren't afraid to turn some wrenches on boats to have fun with 'em. I see a fuel injected big block and a Bravo outdrive in your future boating world, 500 horsepower and above the waterline exhaust are a lot of fun.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I told you I used the monkey poop on mine last fall, right? I still haven't done any maintenance but yesterday I did remove the RAVE valves and I'm getting more nervous about the pump so maybe this weekend I'll trailer the boat and have a "dipstick look" at the pump oil.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I have to hand it to you, you aren't afraid to turn some wrenches on boats to have fun with 'em. I see a fuel injected big block and a Bravo outdrive in your future boating world, 500 horsepower and above the waterline exhaust are a lot of fun.

Man, that is my dream. And with satellite phones and satellite internet, sunshine, blue sky ...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I have to hand it to you, you aren't afraid to turn some wrenches on boats to have fun with 'em. I see a fuel injected big block and a Bravo outdrive in your future boating world, 500 horsepower and above the waterline exhaust are a lot of fun.

Side exhaust, Captain's Choice!

 

[Bonmotwang]

I told you I used the monkey poop on mine last fall, right? I still haven't done any maintenance but yesterday I did remove the RAVE valves and I'm getting more nervous about the pump so maybe this weekend I'll trailer the boat and have a "dipstick look" at the pump oil.

Yes. Man, I was looking for monkey poop at the store, but my phone was dead so that I could not check your post about the part number for the poop. :-( sadly, I took the wrong stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk