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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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I was gonna wash it for you at some point, just haven't had five minutes of daylight free since it came home. My XP motor is back together and going in right now :)

Did I miss something here?!? Is [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] giving away ski's now? I am looking for a 97-99 XP LTD (specifically yellow and black)
 
Did I miss something here?!? Is [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] giving away ski's now? I am looking for a 97-99 XP LTD (specifically yellow and black)

Thanks. I will need my sunglasses to see the XPS after the bath. :-)


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Did I miss something here?!? Is [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] giving away ski's now? I am looking for a 97-99 XP LTD (specifically yellow and black)

It's crazy over here, I don't normally touch ski's because boat's keep me pretty buried but I have been on the hunt for a low hour clean unit for Bonmotwang for a few month's and scored a 97 SPX that's been put away in storage basically since the year after it was bought by the PO, nicest X4 ski I've ever seen I'd be surprised if it has 20 hours on it. Had I not promised it to him already that would be mine! :)

Same day I went chasing that down before someone else got their hooks into it I found a nice XP and trailer with a FullBore engine that was just installed that some genius was to lazy to change the injection lines on and it broke at the injector fitting and puked the pto piston in about the first hour and they weren't interested in working on it ever again so it came home to. And, I have to go pick up a 95 SPX for my neighbor yet tonight who caught a horrible case of jet ski fever after helping me go after those other ones yesterday.

Of course it's winterizing season and I have no time or room to be messing with any of this right now but that's when the deals come out of the woodwork. I'll keep an eye out for one of those 97-99's XP LTD's for you, if there's one in the area I'll give you a heads up.
 
It's crazy over here, I don't normally touch ski's because boat's keep me pretty buried but I have been on the hunt for a low hour clean unit for Bonmotwang for a few month's and scored a 97 SPX that's been put away in storage basically since the year after it was bought by the PO, nicest X4 ski I've ever seen I'd be surprised if it has 20 hours on it. Had I not promised it to him already that would be mine! :)

Same day I went chasing that down before someone else got their hooks into it I found a nice XP and trailer with a FullBore engine that was just installed that some genius was to lazy to change the injection lines on and it broke at the injector fitting and puked the pto piston in about the first hour and they weren't interested in working on it ever again so it came home to. And, I have to go pick up a 95 SPX for my neighbor yet tonight who caught a horrible case of jet ski fever after helping me go after those other ones yesterday.

Of course it's winterizing season and I have no time or room to be messing with any of this right now but that's when the deals come out of the woodwork. I'll keep an eye out for one of those 97-99's XP LTD's for you, if there's one in the area I'll give you a heads up.

Fever :-D

Last year I was in the same fever looking for a Jetski, ended up with a boat. But boat didn't make the fever go away. LoL
 
See why I use fast cure hydraulic seal on those threads now? ~Because environmentally responsible. Also, you made Al Gore and a few tree huggers squirt tears with your oil slick. :thumbsup:
 
I looked into my cone one more time today. I found this:

It is either manufacturer defect or I over-tightened the plug.

cone.JPG

For peace of mind, I will pick up a new one at local dealer ($21.99).
 
Mine happened after the inspection too. Did you use the poop after the peek?


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Yes, exactly the same circumstances in this case, just dipped a stick to check and found dark green oil instead of the original blue so there was some small amount of water but it was acceptable for running. To install the plug I used the poop and threaded it in 1 thread past flush.

Today's inspection revealed oil was literally gushing out from around the fill plug threads, so I removed the cone expecting too much water entered due to the massive leakage. Also there was no pressure released while removing the fill plug.

After blowing out the housing with compressed air reinstalled the cone using the original o-ring with no sealer on o-ring and refilled with the blue oil (mercruiser) no pressure leak check. Then I installed the fill plug using the poop but deeper until I felt more resistance, about 3mm. or 1/8" past flush.

After running out to the island there was no oil slick observed today so maybe it's not leaking now, will report results as more info becomes available from next weekend's pre-splash check.
 
I used lots of it for oil pans, circ pumps etc. it was pretty much one of the three sealants of choice for a long time but I wouldn't use it on those cone threads or the flange seal for boats I send out the same day that get splashed.

2B is about the only sealer I use, gaskets or threads mostly, and rarely do I have a problem with it. However, 2b isn't the only sealer I use, motoseal is another one I like, especially for fuel sender flanges.
 
I looked into my cone one more time today. I found this:

It is either manufacturer defect or I over-tightened the plug.

View attachment 27888

For peace of mind, I will pick up a new one at local dealer ($21.99).

I cannot recognize this photo, I see no fill plug threads and this doesn't look like my cone in the area of the threaded fill plug? I see it looks like a cone with the pusher removed but that area at the end of the red arrow is unfamiliar.

I circled something that appears to be a crack but the hole there pointed to by the arrow is a feature I didn't notice inside my bearing cone.
 

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Oh I like the Motoseal as well I was introduced to it for eliminating cylinder base gaskets on small OPE performance engines to reduce squish, it works famously for areas that come into petro contact. I was kidding you bout the oil slick heck even surprised it was noticeable at all must have been coming out pretty good. Using Merc Hi-Performance gear lube?

I avoid 2B on anything that's headed out the door in under 48 hours due it being a solvent evaporation product.

~Entrepreneurial idea, an aftermarket cone with a threaded aluminum fill/drain bushing molded right into the plastic that uses a standard Mercury lower unit plug and seal, that wouldn't take much to produce. I just can't like plastic threads on a gear housing that spins up to that kind of rpm's.
 
Oh I like the Motoseal as well I was introduced to it for eliminating cylinder base gaskets on small OPE performance engines to reduce squish, it works famously for areas that come into petro contact. I was kidding you bout the oil slick heck even surprised it was noticeable at all must have been coming out pretty good. Using Merc Hi-Performance gear lube?

I avoid 2B on anything that's headed out the door in under 48 hours due it being a solvent evaporation product.

~Entrepreneurial idea, an aftermarket cone with a threaded aluminum fill/drain bushing molded right into the plastic that uses a standard Mercury lower unit plug and seal, that wouldn't take much to produce. I just can't like plastic threads on a gear housing that spins up to that kind of rpm's.

I agree on the improved cone, surprised those aren't being produced b/c this setup leaves a lot to be desired IMO.

Yes, the oil slick was quite noticeable and a big clue something was wrong! After removing the nozzle the oil was leaking out from around the fill plug right before my eyes, it was a big surprise to see that much oil oozing out, actually.

Yep, merc hi-perf, is the stuff we put in everything.

Water temp was 82F today, same as last week. Hope it can stay this way for a couple more weeks.
 
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I cannot recognize this photo, I see no fill plug threads and this doesn't look like my cone in the area of the threaded fill plug? I see it looks like a cone with the pusher removed but that area at the end of the red arrow is unfamiliar.

I circled something that appears to be a crack but the hole there pointed to by the arrow is a feature I didn't notice inside my bearing cone.

That's a aftermarket cone. so the "crack" is just the way it is. not a crack. where the red arrow pointing at is the "passage" of the oil plug. I was showing a "bump" with a white line, probably pushed out by the plug.
 
That's a aftermarket cone. so the "crack" is just the way it is. not a crack. where the red arrow pointing at is the "passage" of the oil plug. I was showing a "bump" with a white line, probably pushed out by the plug.

Okay that makes sense, didn't think it looked like my cone. So it looks like the oil plug "passage" has no threads cut, perhaps b/c it's a virgin cone.

So yeah, it's probably something I'd have to have in my hands in order to comprehend, looks considerably different than the factory approach but not necessarily an improvement.
 
Okay that makes sense, didn't think it looked like my cone. So it looks like the oil plug "passage" has no threads cut, perhaps b/c it's a virgin cone.

So yeah, it's probably something I'd have to have in my hands in order to comprehend, looks considerably different than the factory approach but not necessarily an improvement.

Now I feel guilty about this. You are probably right, it probably has no thread at the bottom half, and when I put the plug back after the stick check, I over tighten the plug, and plug tapped into the no thread part and bumped that piece of plastic out as shown in the photo.
Water lover is probably right too: if you are not sure, get a new cone.


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I bet we could find one, no doubt it should be an improvement over the plastic one if I were going to make the effort I'd certainly improve it in a couple of ways such as the threads would seal better simply b/c Al isn't so soft and the o-ring flange would be wider.

Thumbs up on Al, I'd paint it with epoxy appliance paint I think.
 
I bet we could find one, no doubt it should be an improvement over the plastic one if I were going to make the effort I'd certainly improve it in a couple of ways such as the threads would seal better simply b/c Al isn't so soft and the o-ring flange would be wider.

Thumbs up on Al, I'd paint it with epoxy appliance paint I think.

If I have 3D drawings, my buddy owns a tooling shop can do a few alum cones for me. and it can be oxidized to different colors.
 
Ok. I put the new cone on. Pressure tested. Loctite 518 screw plug flush with the cone. I will bring the boat out tomorrow. Summer is back!!!
 
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