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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Locktite 567 - I think I have some of that here, let me take a look... From what I recall last time I used it I wasn't very impressed that it was any different from the Oatey stuff but gimme a few minutes to get back to you...

Found it, that is Permatex 59214 thread sealer so not sure if it's equivalent to 567 but this one has a solvent base that evaporates to thicken. I reason have this is for the 200*C high temp capability but I don't really like the way it feels, not gooey enough to make me comfortable.

So I still think monkey poop is a better choice over 59214
 
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Waterluvr said:
They do occasionally leave the water for a little bit, your boys would love having that in the driveway huh? :)
Click to expand...

Then I become the world best daddy right away. You know 7 years old starts to "compare" things now :-D


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I have only peeked into this thread a couple times & didn't realize until just now there are over 2050 posts.:o

wow! Whats the record anyway?
 
68ragtop said:
I have only peeked into this thread a couple times & didn't realize until just now there are over 2050 posts.:o

wow! Whats the record anyway?
Click to expand...


Well this is the 4th hottest thread and 15th in the most view thread. I think Sportster-2001-951C-Stock has 1900 posts in this thread alone, LOL. Only joking cause he really helped this guy out I think the most:thumbsup:


If you want the stats just go to the homepage, scroll to the bottom and you can get all the cool kid stats right there. Top posters, hottest threads, reputation, latest posts etc.......
 
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Something forgot to mention, been in my mind. When the pump was locked up last time, there was some play on the flywheel, like 1 degree for 2. Is this normal from the splines on the drive shaft, or a sign of wear?

Edit: just tried the impeller removal tool in the impeller. There is no play. I may to take the drive shaft out and have a look?

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Eventually the PTO splines will shear off from wear. Meanwhile all you can do is keep feeding the spline grease worms and make sure the drive shaft bumpers are still there to keep spline engagement.

Not sure why there's a bumper in the PTO since the grease should keep the drive shaft pushed aftward but maybe in case there isn't enough grease?
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Eventually the PTO splines will shear off from wear. Meanwhile all you can do is keep feeding the spline grease worms and make sure the drive shaft bumpers are still there to keep spline engagement.

Not sure why there's a bumper in the PTO since the grease should keep the drive shaft pushed aftward but maybe in case there isn't enough grease?
Click to expand...

The rubber boot feels like full of grease, just by squishing from the outside. I guess I can take off the rubber boot by loosing the two clamps on it?


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Yes, you can maybe loosen the small clamp or cut it and use a tie-wrap for reassembly. If there is grease there perhaps the shaft is completely engaged in the splines, that's what I'd be looking for, the shaft spline engagement should be maximum, and that's dependent on shaft position it appears to me.

I haven't removed my pump yet, so you're the guinea pig. :)
 
In the case of the o-ring, you're free to be a silicone menace, I suppose it might be preferable to 2B or not, perhaps. Although 2B would probably "work" as well, whatever that means. :)

http://www.insanehydraulics.com/letstalk/siliconeblocksorifice.html

If some guys who adore silicone sealer (which IMO isn't a marine sealer and doesn't belong on a boat) are interested in a name for across the stern, perhaps "Vandalized" would be more appropriate than "Vandle"? (I'm joking, of course, have at it)! :)

Aside Edit: I cleaned my RAVES today after completely disassembling them. I didn't notice last time I had them apart but this time I saw a lot of carbon grit particles up inside around the RAVE blade shaft in that dead space under the RAVE housing base and now I know why the bore in these RAVE bases wears out.

What I'm saying is, make sure you disassemble those RAVES and clean up under the housing in that dead space to get that grime out of there. As opposed to just cleaning the blades and throwing the RAVES back on.

Guess what I used to lube the RAVE bores? LOL, after cleaning everything real good and reassembling I pumped some 2-stroke oil inside the air pressure nipples to flood the inside of the bellows. The idea is some oil in there will help lube the shaft bore while grease would simply provide carbon particles with something to contaminate.
 
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I ordered permatex 51813 which is equivalent to loctite 518, which is suggested in the manual.


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Bonmotwang said:
I ordered permatex 51813 which is equivalent to loctite 518, which is suggested in the manual.


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Click to expand...

That's the only thing you should use on it, it's a real anaerobic sealant that will cure without the presence of oxygen that stuff really works to seal the flange up on the o-ring. I'm sure it would work famously for the plug threads as well.
 
Waterluvr said:
That's the only thing you should use on it, it's a real anaerobic sealant that will cure without the presence of oxygen that stuff really works to seal the flange up on the o-ring. I'm sure it would work famously for the plug threads as well.
Click to expand...

I see, that's why Permatex put "anaerobic" in the description.

One more question: I saw some cones have cut on the outside edge as shown on this picture:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDA4WDM5Ng==/z/-2YAAMXQkl9Rai4z/$T2eC16hHJHIE9nysfqDLBR,i4y1isw~~60_12.JPG

Those cuts will let the water out. Otherwise the water will be trapped in the cone as it happened this time.
The new cone I got doesn't have the drain cuts, maybe I should do 6 cuts by hand?
 
Bonmotwang said:
I see, that's why Permatex put "anaerobic" in the description.

One more question: I saw some cones have cut on the outside edge as shown on this picture:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDA4WDM5Ng==/z/-2YAAMXQkl9Rai4z/$T2eC16hHJHIE9nysfqDLBR,i4y1isw~~60_12.JPG

Those cuts will let the water out. Otherwise the water will be trapped in the cone as it happened this time.
The new cone I got doesn't have the drain cuts, maybe I should do 6 cuts by hand?
Click to expand...

Don't worry about it, use the 518 in conjunction with the o-ring and it won't leak around the flange to let water in there. I don't trust those o-rings at all and won't assemble one without 518 on the flange as well. As far as the pipe plug threads are concerned 518 is perfect for sealing those, the only reason I use a fast set hydraulic sealant on the plug threads is often times I do a complete tune up, fuel system / carb rebuild and pump oil change as a same day service and those boats get splashed again at the end of the day and a fast set hydraulic sealant is a better option under those circumstances.
 
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