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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Be aggressively obsessive, rotate the impeller during leak check.

If the thin o-ring leaks without sealant, I feel it's the wrong size.

Of course the lip seal and o-ring both should be oiled before assembly.

Co-sign that, try it with the small ring and see if it holds just for a test? I'm curious now...I'd still use the sealant for final assembly though 7K rpm's is going to find a weak point in a seal or ring sooner than later.
 
7000 RPM your gonna get water inside through the lip seal once it a got a couple seasons on it.

You guys can come over and clean off all the sealant I find gobbed on these damn recirc pumps and exhaust manifolds, LOL! (Just kidding of course, you want sealant go ahead!) :)
 
Be aggressively obsessive, rotate the impeller during leak check.

If the thin o-ring leaks without sealant, I feel it's the wrong size.

Of course the lip seal and o-ring both should be oiled before assembly. I would put monkey poop on the lip seal OD and drive it home before oiling it, then give it a light coat of oil before assembly.

Be careful when shoving the impeller shaft through the lip seal, make a protector out of a thin piece of plastic soda bottle or aluminum beer can and be careful not to nick the lip (finally, a use for used beer cans!).

The protector is put on the thread?
I thought the thread is small than the seal opening.
 
Protector to keep shaft shoulder from turning seal inside out or otherwise damaging the lip somehow. This may not be necessary if the shaft has some slight taper instead of a sharp burr and some oil helps.

This was only a suggestion of how to insert a shaft through a seal if the seal seems like it may be damaged. I prefer a thin piece of aluminum like from a soda can over thicker plastic soda bottle. There are often $pecial seal protectors to place on the shaft end intended for this type of assembly.

For this "poor man's way", I place this beer can type "protector" inside the seal before sliding the shaft up through the seal so the seal isn't damaged.

This may be unnecessary in your case, IDNK :)
 
Protector to keep shaft shoulder from turning seal inside out or otherwise damaging the lip somehow. This may not be necessary if the shaft has some slight taper instead of a sharp burr and some oil helps.

This was only a suggestion of how to insert a shaft through a seal if the seal seems like it may be damaged. I prefer a thin piece of aluminum like from a soda can over thicker plastic soda bottle. There are often $pecial seal protectors to place on the shaft end intended for this type of assembly.

For this "poor man's way", I place this beer can type "protector" inside the seal before sliding the shaft up through the seal so the seal isn't damaged.

This may be unnecessary in your case, IDNK :)

Thanks. Good to know. I wasn't aware about this type of structure. I pushed the shaft through last time with no knowledge of this construction. Maybe be "that's why"
 
Thanks. Good to know. I wasn't aware about this type of structure. I pushed the shaft through last time with no knowledge of this construction. Maybe be "that's why"

Opened the wsm package. Found out wsm pump seal has no lips. They put a spring around a plastic collar.
294.jpg


Looks more positive sealing to me. But is it an improvement or cost reduction :-D
 
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This is called a lip seal, the internal spring is called a garter spring and goes towards the oil side. I'm sure it will work great if it's the correct size.

Anyway, it doesn't appear you should have any difficulty inserting the shaft but beware not to damage the seal (unlikely, I hope).

It doesn't have a rubberized coating bonded to the od so you should use some kind of sealer on the od and not just oil to help during insertion to the hub.

Maybe it looks different b/c your original seal is worn out?
 
My original seal has two lips.

So the garter spring is inside the pump, and sitting in the oil?
I almost put the spring in the lake water!!!
 
OK, finally got some time this afternoon to wash the pump housing. The pressure washer + car soap gave it a good blast.
Compressed air and heat gun after. So the housing is super clean now.
Found a small cylinder pump from my friend's "inventory". Surprisingly it is still working. (Never throw out things!)
It is perfect for pressing the bearing. I will mock up a frame using some 2x4's.

Some questions:
Do I use synthetic grease to fill up the space inside the new style lip seal?
The red loctitle should be used between the housing and the lip seal?
Do I use the pump oil to lubricant the needle bearings before I press them in? I will put small amount of blue loctite in the housing.
Is it ok that blue or red loctite mix with the grease or pump oil? Will the oil/grease defeat the loctite?
 
OK, finally got some time this afternoon to wash the pump housing. The pressure washer + car soap gave it a good blast.
Compressed air and heat gun after. So the housing is super clean now.
Found a small cylinder pump from my friend's "inventory". Surprisingly it is still working. (Never throw out things!)
It is perfect for pressing the bearing. I will mock up a frame using some 2x4's.

Some questions:
Do I use synthetic grease to fill up the space inside the new style lip seal? No, coat the seal lips with pump oil after it is pressed in
The red loctite should be used between the housing and the lip seal? Their #518 red flange sealant should be used not threadlocker, not sure which one you meant?
Do I use the pump oil to lubricant the needle bearings before I press them in? I will put small amount of blue loctite in the housing. You don't need threadlocker there
Is it ok that blue or red loctite mix with the grease or pump oil? Will the oil/grease defeat the loctite?/QUOTE]Those kids don't play well together, keep them apart
 
Ok. I will only apply blue loctite for needle bearings and then red for the seal. Then apply some pump oil just for the shaft to go through. Then cover the cone to do the 10psi test.
So no grease anywhere?
 
Protector to keep shaft shoulder from turning seal inside out or otherwise damaging the lip somehow. This may not be necessary if the shaft has some slight taper instead of a sharp burr and some oil helps.

This was only a suggestion of how to insert a shaft through a seal if the seal seems like it may be damaged. I prefer a thin piece of aluminum like from a soda can over thicker plastic soda bottle. There are often $pecial seal protectors to place on the shaft end intended for this type of assembly.

For this "poor man's way", I place this beer can type "protector" inside the seal before sliding the shaft up through the seal so the seal isn't damaged.

This may be unnecessary in your case, IDNK :)

The shoulder has a chamfer on the new shaft. :-)


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One bearing race spun in the hub, thus I suggested placing a drop of blue locktite in the hub of on the race befroe pressing that bearing in.

Not convinced one drop of locktite is gonna contaminate your pump oil, kinda thought locktite was safe to use with oil on/in an engine full of uh, oil?

I use monkey poop on the outside diameter of lip seals all the time. Monkey poop is my most favoritist sealer! :) If you prefer just use the seadoo recommendation.
 
One bearing race spun in the hub, thus I suggested placing a drop of blue locktite in the hub of on the race befroe pressing that bearing in.

Not convinced one drop of locktite is gonna contaminate your pump oil, kinda thought locktite was safe to use with oil on/in an engine full of uh, oil?

I use monkey poop on the outside diameter of lip seals all the time. Monkey poop is my most favoritist sealer! :) If you prefer just use the seadoo recommendation.

I was concerned about the oil I was going to use to ease the pressing will make the blue loctite not working.

What is the monkey poop again? I will check Canadian Zoo to see if they have it.


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I was concerned about the oil I was going to use to ease the pressing will make the blue loctite not working.

What is the monkey poop again? I will check Canadian Zoo to see if they have it.


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It won't hurt a thing to use some threadlocker on that but leave the oil off if you want it to help cement it all together, it might help it from spinning again. Although not using water for gear oil usually works out better in the long run. :)
 
I was concerned about the oil I was going to use to ease the pressing will make the blue loctite not working.

What is the monkey poop again? I will check Canadian Zoo to see if they have it.


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Yeah, if you're gonne lube the outer race with oil then lock-tite won't help a bit, not at all. The locktite will act as a lube until is cures so act fast! :)

Monkey poop is permatex 2B sealer, get ya' some I think you'll like it. there are 1B/2B/3B, range of hardening. I use 1B also, on the corners of intake manifolds and oil pans instead of whale snot!
 
One end of the bearing is now too tight for the shaft to going. The other one is ok. Not sure if I just push it hard in?


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