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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Those were identical bearings right, guessing it's the threaded end where the impeller mounts to the shaft where the bearing spun previously?
 
Yes it is the one spun. Bearings are identical. I think the housing got crushed a little. The bearing now got crushed too. I just put the seal in. I will heat up the housing a little to see it will go in or not.
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Worried about the heat damaging seal, I didn't use the heat gun. Tried pushing and spinning at the same time, but it only went in about 1/8".
Not sure if it is unusual.


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Stick a finger in there and make sure all the rollers are floating in the bearing cage before you launch it down the driveway and wake up the neighbors :)
 
I put pump oil on the bearing, all the needles are floating. Maybe just one spot on the cage got pinched some how. I guess I just keep spinning and pushing to see if will free up the tight spot.


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I guess you might have to oil it good and maybe tap the shaft using a hammer? rotate shaft too but it shouldn't take much effort. Probably some sliight misalignment of the needles? It must turn without binding, I think.

Is that thrust washer surface concave or flat? I think it must be flat.
 
It is really really tight. I pressed the shaft through. But really right. Pretty hard to turn by hand.


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Yes punched it out. The shaft pulled the tight bearing out!
The shaft looks ok, just some straight scratches. I do have two extra needle bearings. Will try tomorrow.


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Must be the thrust washer end, might have to put an internal bevel on that using sandpaper to remove a lip formed by the thrust washer spinning?

I guess the lip formed there crushed your bearing race slightly as you pressed the bearing in.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Must be the thrust washer end, might have to put an internal bevel on that using sandpaper to remove a lip formed by the thrust washer spinning?

I guess the lip formed there crushed your bearing race slightly as you pressed the bearing in.
Click to expand...

I believe so. I did file down the lips plus some chamfer into the bronze. But with the other bearing in place I am afraid of the metal particle falling into the housing by filing it down more. I will try my luck by pressing a new bearing in and fit test every 1/8" of press.


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If you want to keep debris from entering the front bearing then push a cloth rag into the open bore while working on the rear bearing and then turn pump bore dirty end down and push rag out from the seal end and blow with compressed air.

Bronze is soft and will not damage the bearings but sandpaper grit might.

How about the torrington bearing thrust washer surface, is it concave or flat?
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
If you want to keep debris from entering the front bearing then push a cloth rag into the open bore while working on the rear bearing and then turn pump bore dirty end down and push rag out from the seal end and blow with compressed air.

Bronze is soft and will not damage the bearings but sandpaper grit might.

How about the torrington bearing thrust washer surface, is it concave or flat?
Click to expand...

The thrust washer surface is flat but with deep scratches.

I drove a new bearing in and it started to bind the shaft about 1/4" in. No way to get it out. I think I should just push the bearings and seals out using the pusher and sand the bad bearing housing down?

I will be a Cuba for a week, leaving tomorrow. probably a good idea to order a pump while i am away?

Now it becomes tricking to bore the bearing housing, no obvious bumps on the surface, no lips for sure, chamfered down about 0.030". I think when the bad bearing spun in the housing, it became smaller (I have measured the bad one), the heat and thrust pressure just crushed the "soft" bronze housing.
Now if I try to bore, it may become to big :-(

How bad is the plastic housing?
 
I have no problem with the plastic housing, my suspicion is the performance won't be equal (due to water flow capacity difference).

I'm thinking the torrington bearing damage made the bore smaller at the end, so just open up the bore there only and press the bearing race just past the oil inlet notch?

The centrifugal forces are fairly great so I feel like once it spins up the outer race will reshape the bore. The trick is the bearing doesn't seize and spin the outer race in the first few seconds of spinning.

What happens if you spin the shaft with the bearings installed, does the bearing race spin inside the hub? If so, surely the ID of the hub will be made larger?

Scoring of the thrust surface shouldn't be a problem as long as thrust washer remains square to the shaft, so sounds like you're okay there.

I'm confident you can restore this pump to it's former glory! :)
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I have no problem with the plastic housing, my suspicion is the performance won't be equal (due to water flow capacity difference).

I'm thinking the torrington bearing damage made the bore smaller at the end, so just open up the bore there only and press the bearing race just past the oil inlet notch?

The centrifugal forces are fairly great so I feel like once it spins up the outer race will reshape the bore. The trick is the bearing doesn't seize and spin the outer race in the first few seconds of spinning.

What happens if you spin the shaft with the bearings installed, does the bearing race spin inside the hub? If so, surely the ID of the hub will be made larger?
Click to expand...

No the bearing race didn't move when I spin the shaft and didn't move when I pressed it all the way in.



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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I'm confident you can restore this pump to it's former glory! :)
Click to expand...

I hope so. otherwise a $200 fix becomes $600 :-D
I just drove everything out of the housing. Will bore the housing after I am back from vacation. The hole seems to be oval . My plan is to file the first 2-3mm down 0.020" all around, because the bearing will not sit there anyway, hoping the oval only happened there, not all the way through, which is hard to believe.
 
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