2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

Wow, sounds like an honest guy! Did he mention if the stock impeller is compatible with the plastic pump? I'm thinking of locating a spare for swap and go.

I got my stuff ordered including the pump oil. I confirmed with him that the 3rd party wear ring and stock impeller are both compatible with the plastic pump.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Found this one online at amazon.ca

Maybe I should get this one:
http://www.amazon.ca/SeaDoo-Sea-Doo...407624086&sr=8-1&keywords=sea+doo+fogging+oil

I got this fogging oil at local dealer. It sprays like a foam spray, not very thick, but I think it stays better.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I would consider placing a drop or two of blue locktite on the outer race of that one bearing that spun just before pressing it in.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I got this fogging oil at local dealer. It sprays like a foam spray, not very thick, but I think it stays better.

As long as you can get it in, sometimes the foaming type can be awkward trying to get it where you want.

 

[Bonmotwang]

As long as you can get it in, sometimes the foaming type can be awkward trying to get it where you want.

The foaming type won't create a "mist". I like the WD40 type, you spray in, it's everywhere.
The CanadianTire cheap version may be better :-D

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The CanadianTire cheap version will work just fine, nothing wrong with that.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Just took a peek into the Rave's port. The fogging oil stayed well on the piston surface and looks "wet". The piston skirt used to be "dry" 24 hours after I add XPS 2 stroke oil into the spark plug hole and Rave ports as "fogging".

And this fogging oil is very oily comparing to XPS, I can wipe off the XPS easily on my figures using a rag, and not feeling oily anymore, but you need to wipe very hard to get rid of the oily feeling from the fogging oil.

I went through some posts about "can I use 2 stroke oil for fogging". I guess this will be helpful for the decisions.

Nice stuff!

 

[Bonmotwang]

The CanadianTire cheap version will work just fine, nothing wrong with that.

LOL, OK, Thanks Sportster. You taught me how to spell O-I-L, and learned lessons, first the engine, then the jet pump.
Without approval on the cheap stuff from you guys, I will just stay with BRP product :-D

 

[Waterluvr]

Just took a peek into the Rave's port. The fogging oil stayed well on the piston surface and looks "wet". The piston skirt used to be "dry" 24 hours after I add XPS 2 stroke oil into the spark plug hole and Rave ports as "fogging".

And this fogging oil is very oily comparing to XPS, I can wipe off the XPS easily on my figures using a rag, and not feeling oily anymore, but you need to wipe very hard to get rid of the oily feeling from the fogging oil.

I went through some posts about "can I use 2 stroke oil for fogging". I guess this will be helpful for the decisions.

Nice stuff!

You guys with the o-rings on the Rave housing have it made! The old school style of the 800 and flat base gasket pretty much mandates having some extra gaskets around to check it all the time like that. But it sure is nice to have a look in there.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Just took a peek into the Rave's port. The fogging oil stayed well on the piston surface and looks "wet".

I went through some posts about "can I use 2 stroke oil for fogging". I guess this will be helpful for the decisions.

Nice stuff!

Did you compare mineral based 2-stroke oil? The synthetic 2-stroke API-TC is not good for engine storage, IMO for two resaons: 1) synthetic oils absorb water moisture 2) Synthetic oils don't have good adhesion to cold metallic surfaces (run off quickly)

Sunthetic lubricants are superior in terms of ability to withstand heat without decomposing and they lubricate well at operating temps. The base oil of synthetics is more finely refined (thus pure) and the molecules are uniform in size.

It's nice having the o-rings on the RAVE base but the 951 head uses a gasket instead of o-ring!

Also I'm sure oil made specifically for fogging has an added tackifier additive, so IMO just about all of the fogging oils are the best choice. I'm sure they aren't synthetic.

I use real fogging oil for winterizing customer boats, they pay for this so I don't cheat them, they get the best. For mine, I use 2-stroke oil and sometimes regular motor oil.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Received the pump parts. Found something interesting:
The o-ring comes with the cone is thicker than the o-ring comes in the pump rebuild kit.
Thicker one is 3.0mm. Thinner one is 2.65mm.
The o-ring in the damaged pump is from the kit I bought last time.
3.0mm is nice and tight. 2.65mm is not that tight.

??????

 

[Waterluvr]

Do the instructions with the smaller o-ring call for using loctite 518 or Permatex 51817 flange sealant in conjunction with it?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Do the instructions with the smaller o-ring call for using loctite 518 or Permatex 51817 flange sealant in conjunction with it?

Manual says so. No instruction in the rebuild kit.

 

[Waterluvr]

Those tighter o-rings seem to want to twist in the groove when sliding in, I think the smaller one and sealant is the way to go.

Grab one of these and use your pop off tester after it's all together to pressure test your pump seals through the oil fill hole, just slide an o-ring up the threads to seal when it goes in the hole.

http://www.amazon.com/Hose-Male-Tubing-Fitting-Connector/dp/B007Q3FIH4

 

[Bonmotwang]

I got the plastic fitting last fall. I will test the smaller o-ring. Before filling in the oil right?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The o-ring on mine will push the cone away from the hub slightly before tightening the screws. I've reused it three times or more and never put any sealer on it (I leak check it before filling).

Once perhaps the o-ring didn't fit into the bevel and it leaked (o-ring was pinched slightly), or maybe I overfilled (trailer tongue was on ground, boat on trailer, boat not level while refilling and I'm sure there was no air inside cavity) but it passed leak check before filling and didn't have much water inside from inspection just slight oil color change but not milkshake.

I think it was too full and hydraulic pressure pushed the oil out, I saw this leak when the sun was on the pump heating it, oil was dripping out from bottom of pump and the hub was wet with oil, puddle inside pump so I suspected a problem.

Living dangerously over here! Reused o-ring again despite it was pinched very slightly.

It's time for me to check it again but it's been dry as a bone and quiet as a mouse...

 

[Bonmotwang]

The o-ring on mine will push the cone away from the hub slightly before tightening the screws. I've reused it three times or more and never put any sealer on it (I leak check it before filling).

Once perhaps the o-ring didn't fit into the bevel and it leaked (o-ring was pinched slightly), or maybe I overfilled (trailer tongue was on ground, boat on trailer, boat not level while refilling and I'm sure there was no air inside cavity) but it passed leak check before filling and didn't have much water inside from inspection just slight oil color change but not milkshake.

I think it was too full and hydraulic pressure pushed the oil out, I saw this leak when the sun was on the pump heating it, oil was dripping out from bottom of pump and the hub was wet with oil, puddle inside pump so I suspected a problem.

Living dangerously over here! Reused o-ring again despite it was pinched very slightly.

It's time for me to check it again but it's been dry as a bone and quiet as a mouse...

How often do you check pump oil?

 

[Waterluvr]

I really do not trust that o-ring without the flange sealant, I know exactly what you're describing about it pushing the cone away from the hub until the fasteners go home. I really can't like that, it has to be deforming the o-ring.

I put a new ring on when I rebuilt the pump and used a new one to check it last week, the Mercury High Performance gear lube seems to be working well.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Last fall during winterizing I changed the pump oil so if water inside it would not freeze or corrode. I haven't checked/changed it this year yet but I should. I think it's a good idea to remove fill pipe plug and use a dipstick after running to see if the oil became milkshake, this is my plan but I've done no maintenance on the seadoo this year despite we run it every weekend.

I'm guilty.

 

[Waterluvr]

I got the plastic fitting last fall. I will test the smaller o-ring. Before filling in the oil right?

Right, 10-12 psi and let it sit for an hour.

 

[Bonmotwang]

My plan was to check the pump after 2 trips, because I knew i didn't check the leak. But this toy just kept going faster and faster. As usual, always ignore the obvious one.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Right, 10-12 psi and let it sit for an hour.

Manual says 10 minutes. But again, this failure makes me obsessive :-D
Yes 60 minutes!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I know exactly what you're describing about it pushing the cone away from the hub until the fasteners go home. I really can't like that, it has to be deforming the o-ring.

I agree with you, the o-ring seems too thick to me. I think the thin o-ring would be a better choice if it doesn't leak with no sealant. I think the sealant shouldn't be necessary so I don't use it.

I'm the guy who puts gaskets on dry.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I agree with you, the o-ring seems too thick to me. I think the thin o-ring would be a better choice if it doesn't leak with no sealant. I think the sealant shouldn't be necessary so I don't use it.

I'm the guy who puts gaskets on dry.

I will test thin, then thick, then thin with sealant.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Manual says 10 minutes. But again, this failure makes me obsessive :-D
Yes 60 minutes!

Be aggressively obsessive, rotate the impeller during leak check.

If the thin o-ring leaks without sealant, I feel it's the wrong size.

Of course the lip seal and o-ring both should be oiled before assembly. I would put monkey poop on the lip seal OD and drive it home before oiling it, then give it a light coat of oil before assembly.

Be careful when shoving the impeller shaft through the lip seal, make a protector out of a thin piece of plastic soda bottle or aluminum beer can and be careful not to nick the lip (finally, a use for used beer cans!).