2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Waterluvr]

I have the impeller tool. I was attempting a rebuild in the spring, but didn't change the seal, bearing, the shaft. :facepalm:

That was the very first thing I did to my boat, put all new OEM everything in the pump and it's been good to me ever since. I just went through a friends 140mm pump on his Challenger and all the parts came from SBT. I gotta say that pump turned out just as good and runs the boat every bit as well as mine, those parts were a good value from them.

 

[Bonmotwang]

That was the very first thing I did to my boat, put all new OEM everything in the pump and it's been good to me ever since. I just went through a friends 140mm pump on his Challenger and all the parts came from SBT. I gotta say that pump turned out just as good and runs the boat every bit as well as mine, those parts were a good value from them.

SBT sit is down. Trying to get some quotes from them.
A new pump assembly plus a impeller is about $600.

The bright side is it didn't quit on me today. I won't talk about trolling motor ever again :-D

 

[68ragtop]

Aaahhhh, Now I see what you mean now on the oil issue. I have an empty case that I could lay a CB shaft in, add the 40ml, tip it at 45 degrees & see where the oil levels out too? If its higher than the threaded plug I would need to seal the halves I suppose, But I i'll check out.

Why do you suppose they vented the DI, but not the carb'd version? Didn't realize that.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Was I right or what? :thumbsup: Man that impeller needs some love to, looks like you fed it rocks for lunch. You have the splined impeller tool?

I will call SBT to see if they have mine in stock. They have a exchange program for $60. Of course I need to figure out the crossing border issue first.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Aaahhhh, Now I see what you mean now on the oil issue. I have an empty case that I could lay a CB shaft in, add the 40ml, tip it at 45 degrees & see where the oil levels out too? If its higher than the threaded plug I would need to seal the halves I suppose, But I i'll check out.

Why do you suppose they vented the DI, but not the carb'd version? Didn't realize that.

That would be really cool if you could lay a CB shaft in there and see where 40ml puts the static level, quite helpful I think!

I believe the DI CB cavity was vented due to the air compressor, else the pressure might build up in the balance shaft cavity and pop a seal out.

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks Sportster, Water lover, and all other members, visitors. I treated it as a teamwork. Even though we are probably 1000 miles apart
Cheers Team!:cheers:

I am thinking about getting a ski with 951 now. so that I can play a little more. That's the problem when you know a little about the things but don't totally understand, and getting dangerous. :willy_nilly:
I am watching for the skis for sell in the US now. Even it is for a project with fairly solid starting point.

I found your project ski for sale, add some graphics and go ride it like you stole it! lots of them around here with the 717 and 787 motor's but this is the first "deal" on a 951 ski I've seen.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/boa/4610510789.html

 

[USAF_Pride]

I found your project ski for sale, add some graphics and go ride it like you stole it! lots of them around here with the 717 and 787 motor's but this is the first "deal" on a 951 ski I've seen.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/boa/4610510789.html

I saw that this weekend. Other than the ugly paint job on that thing, it is close to a decent price.

 

[68ragtop]

That would be really cool if you could lay a CB shaft in there and see where 40ml puts the static level, quite helpful I think!

I believe the DI CB cavity was vented due to the air compressor, else the pressure might build up in the balance shaft cavity and pop a seal out.

Well, I did some initial investigating, but I 'll have to be a little more thorough & temporily seal the halves together. I found the engine doesn't really sit at 45 degrees either. its closer to 40. When I filled the cavity it flowed over the parting line with only 8ml of oil. Unless the fill plug ends up higher than the horizontal cavity where the shaft is & some of the oil can flow in there, I think it will flow back out the fill hole at less than 40ml. It will be close. Just a guess at this point tho, I will follow up another day.

I have to finish welding up a non oem vented hole first.....

 

[Bonmotwang]

I found your project ski for sale, add some graphics and go ride it like you stole it! lots of them around here with the 717 and 787 motor's but this is the first "deal" on a 951 ski I've seen.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/boa/4610510789.html

Sweet deal. I will contact the seller tomorrow to discuss about transportation.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Well, I did some initial investigating, but I 'll have to be a little more thorough & temporily seal the halves together. I found the engine doesn't really sit at 45 degrees either. its closer to 40. When I filled the cavity it flowed over the parting line with only 8ml of oil. Unless the fill plug ends up higher than the horizontal cavity where the shaft is & some of the oil can flow in there, I think it will flow back out the fill hole at less than 40ml. It will be close. Just a guess at this point tho, I will follow up another day.

I have to finish welding up a non oem vented hole first.....

With the other half the plug opening will be higher than the parting line.
Can you see if it is possible for the oil to going to the crank shaft gear cavity with 40 degree angle?

 

[68ragtop]

Thats kinda what I was saying. The other half of the case will raise the fill point to about the same level as the shaft cavity. Just picked my words poorly. I will check it closer soon with both halves. As far as the upper gear area, I filled it at that point & the oil flows right down. barely even a slight puddle remains. But, there would be a lot of oil still in the CB gear cavity. where you able to sneak a siphon tube into that cavity? It seems awfully tight.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Looking for a used pump on ebay and kijiji now. the shaft is stuck in the housing. Hammer it out may hurt the brass housing, right?

Got the shaft out with some median hammering. The thrust bearing is totally damaged, the needle bearing at the far end (further away from the engine) is damaged, the needles are melt and stuck together, some needles felt out, but the cage is still one piece and rotating and sliding in the pump housing. The damaged the thrust bearing also pushed the brass inward the bearing housing a little, I had to file the brass at the edge a little to get the bearing out.
The other needle bearing looks ok.

I still need to file the housing a little more to insert the bearing pusher to push the other bearing and seal out.

Talked to SBT, for customer in Canada, I need to ship the impeller in first then they will ship a reworked one to me. I may do that in winter depend on the repair plan.

My major question right now is do I need a new pump housing based on my description about the damage.

A whole New WSM pump housing with wear ring, shaft, bearings and a cone is $365 from eBay.

If I keep my housing and order a new cone, shaft, bearing kit, it will be $175 from eBay.

Any advice?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Thats kinda what I was saying. The other half of the case will raise the fill point to about the same level as the shaft cavity. Just picked my words poorly. I will check it closer soon with both halves. As far as the upper gear area, I filled it at that point & the oil flows right down. barely even a slight puddle remains. But, there would be a lot of oil still in the CB gear cavity. where you able to sneak a siphon tube into that cavity? It seems awfully tight.

No. I couldn't get my 3mm hose into the other gear cavity and also worried something got jammed there. But with some hand pressure I was able to get about 35ml oil into the hole, the air pressure popped some oil out when I removed the 1/4" hose, but I didn't think there was more than 5ml got blew out. And I left the screw open for a while, no more oil came out, which made me believe the oil went into the craft shaft fear cavity and stayed there.

 

[Waterluvr]

Sweet deal. I will contact the seller tomorrow to discuss about transportation.

Your six hours from me and that is just another hour and a half to the West from here right across the Interstate. Come down and be our guest for the night and we can just drive over and stick it in the back of your Jeep for the ride home

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thats kinda what I was saying. The other half of the case will raise the fill point to about the same level as the shaft cavity. Just picked my words poorly. I will check it closer soon with both halves. As far as the upper gear area, I filled it at that point & the oil flows right down. barely even a slight puddle remains. But, there would be a lot of oil still in the CB gear cavity. where you able to sneak a siphon tube into that cavity? It seems awfully tight.

I'm inclined to conclude that if we fill to the top of the hole this isn't overfilling and should be sufficient quantity.

Wouldn't you agree?

 

[Bonmotwang]

I'm inclined to conclude that if we fill to the top of the hole this isn't overfilling and should be sufficient quantity.

Wouldn't you agree?

I tend to agree. According to ragtop's test, even I pushed the oil into crank shaft gear, it will run down into the CB gear.
But just could not understand that why I can only get 15ml in by gravity. Are those seals air tight?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

My major question right now is do I need a new pump housing based on my description about the damage.

A whole New WSM pump housing with wear ring, shaft, bearings and a cone is $365 from eBay.

If I keep my housing and order a new cone, shaft, bearing kit, it will be $175 from eBay.

Any advice?

Isn't the WSM housing all plastic? Somewhere I recall there's a difference in performance between large and small hub housings and the impellers are not the same?

I thought you had leak checked it before refilling (not a guarantee!).

 

[Bonmotwang]

Isn't the WSM housing all plastic? Somewhere I recall there's a difference in performance between large and small hub housings and the impellers are not the same?

I thought you had leak checked it before refilling (not a guarantee!).

No. I didn't. I didn't make the pump even I got the fitting.
Good reminder for the difference. I need to double check.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Isn't the WSM housing all plastic? Somewhere I recall there's a difference in performance between large and small hub housings and the impellers are not the same?

I thought you had leak checked it before refilling (not a guarantee!).

Talked to WSM dealer in canada. Yes it is plastic pump, and the rep suggested to keep my stock brass one because it doesn't flex.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Wow, sounds like an honest guy! Did he mention if the stock impeller is compatible with the plastic pump? I'm thinking of locating a spare for swap and go.

 

[nickj718]

I saw that this weekend. Other than the ugly paint job on that thing, it is close to a decent price.

LOL thats not a paint job its a limited they came that color

 

[USAF_Pride]

LOL thats not a paint job its a limited they came that color

Then, IMO, that has to be one of the ugliest paint schemes BRP came up with!!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

LOL thats not a paint job its a limited they came that color

That's a good enough reason to buy it right there; IMO factory ugly is beautiful on a classic hull if the finish itself is still good.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Wow, sounds like an honest guy! Did he mention if the stock impeller is compatible with the plastic pump? I'm thinking of locating a spare for swap and go.

I will check it out in the morning.
I hammered the bearing out. carefully checked the brass housing. luckily the damage on the housing is not going to affect the performance I think.

- The housing for the thrust bearing got cut in about 0.040", because the metal rollers were broken loose there and pushed into the side wall. This is the most obvious damage.
- The surface where the thrust washer is sitting has some scratches, probably a layer is gone, but evenly, checked with caliper.
- The bearing journal of the damaged needle bearing has scratches because the needles were seized and the cage was spinning in the journal.
- The step on the cone for the O-Ring to sit around got deformed by the heat, it is tapped in now. I put the O-Ring on the cone and cover it on the housing, it is loosing, won't seal for sure.

I put in a set of old thrust washer and thrust bearing, checked the height to the top, all in 0.02mm. (Well, i was looking for 0.02 LoL).



I got a quote for a bearing kit, cone kit and a impeller shaft, $200 shipped, arriving on Thursday.
I hope I can get it back into water soon. But no pressure for this weekend

Edit: Need to find a way to clean the housing, brass particles everywhere.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I tend to agree. According to ragtop's test, even I pushed the oil into crank shaft gear, it will run down into the CB gear.
But just could not understand that why I can only get 15ml in by gravity. Are those seals air tight?

Yes, my understanding is the carbed 951 CB cavity is air tight with no venting. Too much pressure might blow a hole somewhere (a crank seal or parting line?)? The DI has a vent in the place of our "service plug", maybe we can copy this design or it's unnecessary? I'm not absolutely certain but because of the air compressor perhaps it's possible for the DI CB cavity to become pressurized thus a vent is necessary? Or maybe the higher temperature would cause the pressure to become too high?

I guess you couldn't remove all of the oil from your carbed 951 but Ragtop advised concerning DI: "When I filled the cavity it flowed over the parting line with only 8ml of oil". So perhaps we can assume we are able to remove all except some amount less than 8ml + some may be trapped at the ends of the shaft?

At this point I'm satisfied knowing the CB gear is running in oil b/c this will lube both gears.