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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Okay, so I'm looking at the intake ports of the cylinder and curious to see the exhaust port next! (photo please if you have a chance).

Also wondering if the machinist dressed the opening edges around the ports by chamfering them with a die grinder and carbide burr or maybe round file device so the rings aren't prone to snagging on the edges of the ports?

Do the edges feel sharp to your fingers?

The overbore should include this step of preparing the ports and sometimes it's necessary to disassemble after the first heat cycle and repeat the process of chamfering if vertical stripes are found.

http://www.ccspecialtytool.com/2-stroke-porting-and-polishing-tips-tj
 

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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Okay, so I'm looking at the intake ports of the cylinder and curious to see the exhaust port next! (photo please if you have a chance).

Also wondering if the machinist dressed the opening edges around the ports by chamfering them with a die grinder and carbide burr or maybe round file device so the rings aren't prone to snagging on the edges of the ports?

Do the edges feel sharp to your fingers?

The overbore should include this step of preparing the ports and sometimes it's necessary to disassemble after the first heat cycle and repeat the process of chamfering if vertical stripes are found.

http://www.ccspecialtytool.com/2-stroke-porting-and-polishing-tips-tj
Click to expand...

I took 4 pictures for the 2 exhaust ports from up and bottom:

IMG_4201.jpgIMG_4202.jpgIMG_4203.jpgIMG_4204.jpg

Edit: the picture is giving much more details than I looking at it even closely :-D
 
What else I should pick up at Canadian tire. I am planning to get the engine together tomorrow. Then carbs.

- Do you need anti seize for the 8 rods? or just use blue or red loctite.
- Some 1/4" black fuel line to replace those grey lines. Do I need to change the pulse line to black too?
- Gasket remover
- Gasket maker: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-0382523p.html#.U9MGovldXNk

this gasket maker is made for 2 or 4 stroke engines. can you double check if I can use it. If it looks ok, i will buy a tube and apply it to metal surface to try it first.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yes, I know you are wondering about rust but oxygen and water vapor are always present in some concentration anyway. I think all you can do is maybe spray some oil and lay a towel over top to deter condensation.
Click to expand...

Ok I will leave it alone:-) Just wiped some 3 in 1 oil on the cylinder.


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[ QUOTE=Waterluvr;419753]How's it going today, everything go back together alright I hope?[/QUOTE]
Still out of town. Collected all the tubes and cans for installation.

Questions:
I got both Nickel anti seize compound and copper one. Which should I use on the 8 rods?

I got 2 feet of fuel line hose and 2 feet of fuel injection hose, both 1/4" ID and look same to me. Which one should I use to replace the ones on the carb?

Thanks



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I use copper for everything but high temperature applications, and only buy fuel injection rated hose as it's specifically marketed as being alcohol resistant from the supplier I get it from. Copper is fine for water cooled engine fasteners.
 
Clamp I got for the 1/4". Smooth inside is better?
670.jpg



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After a few tries. I don't think I can do the port filing properly. 951 has some "rectangular" ports, which make it tricky to get a smooth transfer from the files edges. I will let the break in to do its job. I felt all the ports, they are sharp, but not cutting fingers, the ones I use to play classical. :-)


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Waterluvr said:
What, no side burner on the gas grill to heat water on? :)
Click to expand...

I should! Because I need some water rinsing from the top while brushing.
Good idea :-D

Tomorrow is going to be a full day at children festival. Weekdays are my "working" days other then daily business.

For the break in: if things go well and engine starts in the water and adjusted to 1400RPM. Do I leave the boat idling at the dock for 15 minutes? I was thinking add more oil from spark plug every 5 minutes? :-D.

Then go out at 3000PRM for 45 minutes?

Is there a "standard" procedure?


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Edit: Today => Tomorrow.
(Today is a full day with family too :-D)
 
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Just stay out of the top end for a couple hours, but don't let it just idle all the time either. You wan't to be pulling the oil injection cable open with the throttle pretty regularly and varying the speed from idle to 4000 to change the rpm's and allow the rings to seat. Just take it easy for the first three to four hours and change speed slowly.

You're adding injection oil to the tank right? That should have you covered, after the fourth hour of run time I wouldn't be afraid to use enough throttle to get the boat on plane and then bring it back to cruising speeds for 5 minute intervals.
 
I will add 34 oz (1litre) XPS premix oil into my 8/10 full tank. So it is about 80:1. Do I need add more standard XPS II on top of that?


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Bonmotwang said:
I will add 34 oz (1litre) XPS premix oil into my 8/10 full tank. So it is about 80:1. Do I need add more standard XPS II on top of that?


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Click to expand...

That's enough oil in the pre-mix, you really can have such a thing as to much oil occupying the volume of what the jets allow to pass through the carbs. Be sure the alignment marks are where they need to be on the oil pump when you re-attach the cable and you'll have a surplus of oil getting in there just off idle at 2-2500 rpm's.
 
Waterluvr said:
That's enough oil in the pre-mix, you really can have such a thing as to much oil occupying the volume of what the jets allow to pass through the carbs. Be sure the alignment marks are where they need to be on the oil pump when you re-attach the cable and you'll have a surplus of oil getting in there just off idle at 2-2500 rpm's.
Click to expand...

Can I have the mark just over 1/8" do that I will inject more oil? I don't go over 3/4 throttle during break in any way.


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It's my understanding that's exactly what will happen if you adjust it that way, it basically just meter's out more volume at any given rpm range set up like that.

I would like to observe the injectors on an engine with the carbs off, and the oil pump marks help in alignment while someone rolls the engine over. I can't find anything from rotax that say's there is no oil delivered to the motor at idle speed's.
 
Waterluvr said:
It's my understanding that's exactly what will happen if you adjust it that way, it basically just meter's out more volume at any given rpm range set up like that.

I would like to observe the injectors on an engine with the carbs off, and the oil pump marks help in alignment while someone rolls the engine over. I can't find anything from rotax that say's there is no oil delivered to the motor at idle speed's.
Click to expand...

This is what the manual says:
674.jpg


So at idle speed it get 1 "drop" of oil very 1.5 seconds.

Not sure how to calculate the oil amount when premix.

I think the oil pump lever is used to achieve or compensate non-linear relationship RPM vs. volume.


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My manual calls for .71-.87 ML for each cylinder at 1500 rpm's, for some reason Sportster mentioned there being none at idle and I wasn't sure why he was under that impression. Or maybe that small a quantity is close enough to zero in his book to qualify and I can't say I would think differently that's not much oil at all.

I have my cable adjusted just past the alignment mark at idle speed, there are two ports off Lake Michigan we frequent that have extensive no wake zones with a couple miles of river travel through area's lined with boat slips and speed through them is strictly enforced at times. I was concerned that the prolonged travel times through those areas at low RPM's could cause issues with oiling and I don't want to pre-mix.
 
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