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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
- Thread starter Bonmotwang
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Bath
Or hot tub
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Or hot tub
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Quick wd40 test during the bath. Clean!
Will rinse with hot water again and dry and put oil on.
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Will rinse with hot water again and dry and put oil on.
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Waterluvr
New Member
So I like to turn the oven on to 200*f after I wash a freshly bored cylinder and let it heat up to temperature then shut it off. I wash the cylinder, dry it with compressed air and place it in the oven to dry for half an hour then oil it down thoroughly with wd-40 or fogging oil until I can get to it for final assembly.
It makes 100% sure the cast liner is dry before it's oiled and works really well if you're going to be more than a few hours until assembly.
It makes 100% sure the cast liner is dry before it's oiled and works really well if you're going to be more than a few hours until assembly.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Applied oil as fast as I can
Watch the head lines if my wife found out what I did on HER kitchen!
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Watch the head lines if my wife found out what I did on HER kitchen!
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Well I guess I just "sealed" the water in :-(
But the O2 out :-D
Anyway it dried out very fast with close to 85C on the smooth surface. I saw the cylinder surface turned white in 10 seconds after I brought it out. I thought rust would grow in the next 30 sec :-D
I guess I am still good?
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Boy, now I can sleep better.
The black residue is stubborn. I tried gasket remover twice and worked hard (obviously not enough). The trouble is the surface is patterned and black stuff sits in the fine grooves. So far my fingers tell me it is flat but for sure not sportster's eyes. :-D
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Waterluvr
New Member
Use a scotch brite pad to remove gasket residue, (green or red) nothing else works half as well. I buy them in large sheets and cut them down to fit into flat hand sanding blocks with the keeper ends to hold them on. You won't make an impression with your fingers removing to much material that way.
You can get the rotary air tool pads and I use them as well but be careful not to remove metal with it.
You can get the rotary air tool pads and I use them as well but be careful not to remove metal with it.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I did use the kitchen scotch brite pad. But the thing just stays in. The block is aluminum except the sleeve right? So steel wool won't work here.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I used the old piston to practice circlip installation. I can install the first circlip with the piston out no problem. But when the piston is in place, it will be tougher job to get the second one in the groove. With some practice pretending in limited space, I can get it in confidently now. It seems like a 1/4" flat screw driver and a 3/4" screw driver or dull chisel is the trick. And the screw driver needs to be sit against the 90 degree step, not the other side, which is a slippery slope.
Will try on the new piston soon after I use gasket remover to give the crankcase gasket surface a final clean.
I hope my theory works
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Will try on the new piston soon after I use gasket remover to give the crankcase gasket surface a final clean.
I hope my theory works
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
One thing I noticed that WSM circlip is almost identical to the stock one except the stock clip has a bend at one end which stops the circlip from spinning in side the groove.
Shop manual requires the bent end sitting inside the groove opening. The WSM clip requires the clip facing up, so they assume that the clip won't spin?
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Shop manual requires the bent end sitting inside the groove opening. The WSM clip requires the clip facing up, so they assume that the clip won't spin?
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Waterluvr
New Member
There are two schools of thought on orientation of the piston clip at either the 6 or 12 position. Regarding placing them at the 6 o'clock position that gives the clip maximum resistance to the energy being exerted from the downward movement of the piston on it's powerstroke and changing directional forces exerted on the wrist pin, bearing and clip.
In higher heat applications such as air cooled motors and those equipped with turbo and superchargers heat at the face of the piston can cause problems with temper in the clip and the 12 orientation allows the clip to run cooler.
I personally install the clips at the 6 position in all raw water cooled marine applications, haven't lost one yet.
In higher heat applications such as air cooled motors and those equipped with turbo and superchargers heat at the face of the piston can cause problems with temper in the clip and the 12 orientation allows the clip to run cooler.
I personally install the clips at the 6 position in all raw water cooled marine applications, haven't lost one yet.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I avoid using copper on aluminum b/c there two metals are incompatible and galvanic corrosion is practically guaranteed. This is why I also don't like to use copper-cote spray on aluminum assemblies unless absolutely necessary.
On those cylinder studs in the case I though Rotax specifies lock-tite and for the upper nuts something else?
You asked about the oil pump volume. If you are going to measure volume what is the position of the lever valve? You expect to measure 2ml with the alignment marks parallel or full open valve? I'm wondering what the volume of "1 drop of oil" is, but I guess you should follow the service manual procedure.
Maybe you worked out the details and already did your running tests.
BTW, I like Gordon Jennings idea of radiusing the ports as opposed to filing them at an angle, a nice tip! So I'd start with filing them to get the basic shape and then use abrasive like crocus cloth to shape the radius. But, that's whacko me!
On those cylinder studs in the case I though Rotax specifies lock-tite and for the upper nuts something else?
You asked about the oil pump volume. If you are going to measure volume what is the position of the lever valve? You expect to measure 2ml with the alignment marks parallel or full open valve? I'm wondering what the volume of "1 drop of oil" is, but I guess you should follow the service manual procedure.
Maybe you worked out the details and already did your running tests.
BTW, I like Gordon Jennings idea of radiusing the ports as opposed to filing them at an angle, a nice tip! So I'd start with filing them to get the basic shape and then use abrasive like crocus cloth to shape the radius. But, that's whacko me!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, but the Rotax is actually a hot running motor! This is why we must use API-TC that includes the metal salts ash package.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The clip should be so tight it doesn't spin. I think if it's lose enough to spin then there's something wrong and the clip doesn't fit properly.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I used the old piston to practice circlip installation. I can install the first circlip with the piston out no problem. But when the piston is in place, it will be tougher job to get the second one in the groove. With some practice pretending in limited space, I can get it in confidently now. It seems like a 1/4" flat screw driver and a 3/4" screw driver or dull chisel is the trick. And the screw driver needs to be sit against the 90 degree step, not the other side, which is a slippery slope.
Will try on the new piston soon after I use gasket remover to give the crankcase gasket surface a final clean.
I hope my theory works
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You must use new clips that have never been installed for the final assembly, so I hope you are practicing with used clips and not your new ones. These clips should not be reused.
Above all, the clip must fot properly, and must be tight in the groove, it should not spin.
Waterluvr
New Member
Cosign that, if it's not held rigidly in place bad things will happen when the motor starts.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Maybe a sanding drum on a dremel for doing the port radiusing? Remember, Jennings only used files, he thought a rotary tool or die grinder was too dangerous.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I think this would do a decent job. Maybe 2 linked together.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
One of the WSN rings got the top and bottom side coated black. Which one should be on the top? Someone said it doesn't matter?
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Waterluvr
New Member
From Full Bores tech tips:
When installing WSM rings if there is a polished edge, it is installed in the top ring groove.
On Sea Doo 947/951 the rings only go on one way, if they don't compress in the groove flip them over. Small letters near end gap face up.
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