• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Oh about the crank case. Do I need to clean up suck put the oil puddle down there. One of my picture is showing an oil puddle there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No leave that oil puddle in there unless it was somehow contaminated! If it was, suck it out and replace it. When the engine starts the first time that oil gets slung up through the windows in the rods and all over everything else that matters.

There's very little oil coming in from the pump at normal throttle settings for in water idle speed. I actually think it might be a far better idea to start that motor in the water to avoid the initial 3K rpm out of the water routine with the impeller having no resistance to slow it down.
 
Watching some 951 top end video right now.
By looking at the crank case structure, I started thinking about the counterbalance oil again.
When adding the oil, I think you need to "inject" the oil in, otherwise you won't get 40ml in. because the oil won't climb up into the crank shaft gear part. it will only stay at counterbalance gear side.

Now the following is just further wild thinking:
I am thinking about put a fitting there and put a long clear hose there and go straight up. You can pull enough oil there so that the oil will overflow into the hose.
I guess there is no direct pressure in that area? So if the oil level drops, you know the oil is got consumed somewhere and you can add more.
Is it a crazy idea? :-D
 
If you suck out the oil puddle then of course you should replace it with fresh clean oil.

There's no oil coming from the injector pump at idle speed, literally none! This is why I try to add oil by fogging at end of day but it's always a chore climbing in the bilge! Still need to rig a remote oiler.
 
Waterluvr said:
No leave that oil puddle in there unless it was somehow contaminated! If it was, suck it out and replace it. When the engine starts the first time that oil gets slung up through the windows in the rods and all over everything else that matters.

There's very little oil coming in from the pump at normal throttle settings for in water idle speed. I actually think it might be a far better idea to start that motor in the water to avoid the initial 3K rpm out of the water routine with the impeller having no resistance to slow it down.
Click to expand...

I think start in water probably a good idea, and less chance of run away, right?

Do I leave idle, low speed, high speed as before or start with factory default location.

Before:
Idle speed: the butterfly plate is just covering the first tiny hole
Low speed screw: 1.6 turns out (default is 1.5 turns)
High speed screw: 0.2 turns out (default is 0).
 
Inspected the crank case oil again. More pictures
639.jpg

640.jpg

Sucked some out.
Looks black to me. No metal piece.
641.jpg


I will suck it out and put shiny pinky back in :-D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
We call than an ounce, put just a little more back in there (like 50%) more that won't hurt anything when it starts the crank in motion. You want to roll the engine over briefly without the plugs in to let everything oil up before it fires.
 
Is it clean enough to put the gasket on? I used a small chisel carefully clean the high spots left from the old gasket stuck there.
644.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Waterluvr said:
We call than an ounce, put just a little more back in there (like 50%) more that won't hurt anything when it starts the crank in motion. You want to roll the engine over briefly without the plugs in to let everything oil up before it fires.
Click to expand...

Shoot! Forgot to pick up the XPS II in the morning when I dropped off the raves. Now I need to wait when I pick up the raves.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You couldv'e left the cylinders so he can test/confirm the RAVE fit if you're not assembling it yet.

You can use gasket stripper to clean those surfaces, or if you're careful insert a scotchbrite pad into your air powered die grinder (my preference), these are available ready to use at Home Depot I think.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
You couldv'e left the cylinders so he can test/confirm the RAVE fit if you're not assembling it yet.

You can use gasket stripper to clean those surfaces, or if you're careful insert a scotchbrite pad into your air powered die grinder (my preference), these are available ready to use at Home Depot I think.
Click to expand...

I guess I need verify the fit at home now. It is already done. I will pick them up with XPS II oil in the afternoon.
How to check if the raves are fit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ask him if he washed the cylinders and scrubbed them with very hot water, this is the only way to remove the remaining honing abrasive and MUST be done before assembly! After cleaning, a white paper towel wiped inside with wd-40 should be clean, not dirty looking. Unless maybe his hone was white, which hopefully wasn't.
 
I will use XPS II to lubricate all the parts when I install. Is it ok oil got into the bottom and top gaskets?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bonmotwang said:
I guess I need verify the fit at home now. It is already done. I will pick them up with XPS II oil in the afternoon.
How to check if the raves are fit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You can use a round rod parallel with and inside cylinder across/over the rave slot then insert RAVE and there should be about 1mm gap.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Ask him if he washed the cylinders and scrubbed them with very hot water, this is the only way to remove the remaining honing abrasive and MUST be done before assembly! After cleaning, a white paper towel wiped inside with wd-40 should be clean, not dirty looking. Unless maybe his hone was white, which hopefully wasn't.
Click to expand...

This is what I got using wd40 wiping
646.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bonmotwang said:
I will use XPS II to lubricate all the parts when I install. Is it ok oil got into the bottom and top gaskets?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Try to keep top gasket dry of oil. You can use spray copper-coat sealer if you think if may leak due to surface corrosion or irregularities.

At least it's easy to replace the head gasket if it leaks. Check compression if there's any question, before the head gasket leak can cause damage to the flat sealing surfaces.

Curiosity: Does this head gasket have a sealing wire laminated just outside the cylinder bore diameter?
 
Bonmotwang said:
This is what I got using wd40 wiping
646.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Like Sportster said, you want really hot water (same as a coffee pot would give you) to clean those with. The hot water will pretty much evaporate as you clean without standing on surfaces and rusting what's underneath.

Can't believe he didn't tell you to clean them, especially after the arrows go that way ---> rant.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

G
Seadoo sportster Le
Replies
1
Views
234
rhauss7
R
E
Help Removing drive shaft from 2002 GTI LE
Replies
3
Views
132
rusty nail
rusty nail
C
Where can I get a jet pump housing for 1998 Sportster?
Replies
3
Views
115
etemplet
etemplet
C
Where can I get a jet pump housing for 1998 Sportster?
Replies
0
Views
87
coachjjohn
C
MoveAround44
1996 Sportster - Need Help Getting the Driveshaft off the Engine
Replies
5
Views
219
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top