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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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What would the compressed one do to the PTO side cylinder or power.


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Assuming this spring is damaged somehow, this compressed overall length would mean the tension would be less, thus the pop pressure would be less and that carb would pop before it should. This would tend to flow more fuel and perhaps overload the crankcase with fuel during low speed maneuvers.

But it is bent as well, so the pop may be inconsistent. It might pop at 16lbs one time then pop at 19lbs another time.
 
The short one is got compressed somehow.
Same turns, I counted.

In the 46i kit, the spring is all 03034 now.
46i is the right kit for our boat, isn't it?


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Those Mikuni numbers you posted are all mixed up, it should be like this:

730-03027 - 115gr
730-03027-T - 95gr
730-03033 - 80gr
730-03030 - 65gr

03034 may also be the 95gr spring P/N, I'm not sure if this number is incorrect or not (I lost some of my info during the accident).

The seadoo p/n for 95gr spring is 270500313
 
Those Mikuni numbers you posted are all mixed up, it should be like this:

730-03027 - 115gr
730-03027-T - 95gr
730-03033 - 80gr
730-03030 - 65gr

03034 may also be the 95gr spring P/N, I'm not sure if this number is incorrect or not (I lost some of my info during the accident).

The seadoo p/n for 95gr spring is 270500313

Yes I updated the post.


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46i is the correct kit, but I'm not sure if the early 951 was "i" or 46 before the FP improvement, and the spring was not the same I think. But if the spring you received in the kit and it's silver, and it's wound the same as the photo you found, then I agree it's the 95gr spring.

The acid test is measuring pop, that will reveal the truth.
 
Seadoo foruming from public library :-D
Let's have a tag line for the month: "Seadoo Anywhere" :cheers:

Hi Sportster.
Are you saying I should see some oil at the arrow pointed area?
I did see some dark liquid there. Not high for sure. But I will a stick to check depth.
View attachment 26872

Edit: by looking at the picture again. The dark area is oil. Can you judge from the picture? Is it a pass :-)

Does this picture answer your question about the oil level?


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It's almost 10 am, what could it hurt to call and see if it's ready lol? Better yet stop by in person and have someone else video the encounter.
 
Ok, simple $28 tester: tested in hand, it will work and air flow control is easy. One trick: don't use the white tape seal the fitting port into the gauge, so that you can have extra control to slow down the pressure increase in this particular test.
619.jpg



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Open the end a little with a heat gun.
621.jpg


Finished product. Yes $28 dollars parts, 5 minutes labor.
622.jpg

[DIY Seadoo carb pop off tester]


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That works to, what pressure are you getting for the pop's?

First time 29psi. Everything was dry.
Second time was 19psi because I didn't hold the seat with the screw.
Then I fixed everything and added WD40 into seat. Getting 15/16psi. Sometimes pops and sometime just starts to leak. But all at 15/16 Psi.
This is the compressed spring. Will try the good spring now.


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Good spring:
1st test with lots WD40: pops at 26psi
2nd leaks at 25psi
3rd leaks at 25psi

Edit: if you want the pop effect, need to add wd40 every time. Better leak test is the same based on my data.

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Verified the defective spring: still pops at 15psi. Test been done on the PTO carb.
Moving to the MAG carb now.


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Side note for who don't have full sets of tools. This bit is perfect for all Philips in the carb.
624.jpg



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So it is a little high? Spec says 19 to 23 psi


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Actually the way your testing it with that air supply and 60 PSI gauge you're likely not that far off if any. I run dual 0-30 and 0-60 psi gauges on my testers just for that purpose using a highly regulated dry air supply to run it for accuracy depending on the carb I'm working on.

It's a little overkill, so long as both carbs are in operating range and pop close to each other that's good enough. The main thing is not having any housing leaks.
 
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