2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Waterluvr]

No leave the throttle/choke shafts and linkages in place. Now, every opening in that carb has a point or origin and point of exit through the passages where you want the cleaner to flow through.

Wear safety goggles so you don't get it in your eye's but you need to visually see it's flowing out when you insert the straw into an opening and flush it out.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Ok. I am opening the MAG side now. Will do flush together


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[Bonmotwang]

Took off a block

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[Waterluvr]

That's your pump, notice the check valves that work in opposite directions? You'll recall we talked about the new discs that are color coded with a blue stripe on the side that faces up because they are concave.

 

[Bonmotwang]

That's your pump, notice the check valves that work in opposite directions? You'll recall we talked about the new discs that are color coded with a blue stripe on the side that faces up because they are concave.

So I need to mark it and take it off?


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Do I take this plastic tab apart?

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It's mylar film, and must lay flat over the hole. I think it's unnecessary to remove it if it's undamaged and the passage is clean. This valve keeps air from entering back streaming into the fuel chamber from the large venturi at low speed operation.

Sometimes they can become bent by mishanding, thus don't seal over the hole.

Mainly, you should focus on spraying through the two brass jets in the carb body(one large main jet, one smaller "pilot"(transition) jet) and make sure the fuel comes out the three "pilot holes" (transition ports) in the carb body when spraying through the smaller "pilot" jet, the spray should not just dribble out of one hole or exit sideways from the hole, it should nicely shoot out straight from the hole inside the bore (all three holes simultaneously) near the throttle butterfly. These three holes are responsible for mid range up to 70% throttle and off-idle fuel, so the operation range of these is wide, thus important.

I always replace the needle and seat if I don't know they were recently done, a proper carb rebuild should include new ones (b/c the needle tip wears) The brass seat has an calibrated orifice that must be the correct size.

How did the filters look?

Was there a puddle of oil in the crankcase, how deep?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

So I need to mark it and take it off?


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If they aren't bent cracked or worn around the perimeter, they are fine.

 

[Bonmotwang]

The filter is like new. I can see through.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The filter is like new. I can see through.


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Check the thimble filter carefully for "lint" fibers.

aside: Does Donald Trump wear a wig made from dryer lint?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Closer look

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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

About the two fuel pump mylar check valve disks:

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

It appears your carbs are not virgins.

 

[Bonmotwang]

MAG side low speed is richer. 20 degree more.


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[Bonmotwang]

It appears your carbs are not virgins.

Where should I be looking to confirm?
Is it an upgraded one? :-D


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Where should I be looking to confirm?
Is it an upgraded one? :-D


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It appears they have already been opened and "cleaned" by someone. It's unnecessary to remove the two brass jets unless there is a large amount of corrosion, fuel gum and varnish normally can be dissolved by the acetone and solvents in brake/carb cleaner.

But, make certain the most critical orifices are clean, theses are the smallest passages in the entire carb beside the return fuel restrictors built into the fuel supply cover plate, those should be back-flushed with solvent also so don't forget them.

Then you can blow compressed air through these holes and inside the fuel bowl, etc., to blow away any remaining dust.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

MAG side low speed is richer. 20 degree more.


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Set these all to factory spec, as per your service manual. Make sure your metering springs are the correct color at least, someone may have changed to the wrong ones. Check the numbers stamped on the brass jets to confirm correct calibration, and the metering needle seat.

I found with all factory calibrations my carbs were too lean in mid range so I recalibrated specifically to richen this range and eliminate the poor throttle response caused by the lean ratio. Not sure if the calibration was satisfactory from the factory and changed with age, if that's the case I blame this on the alloy type.

You should also check pop pressure to confirm the metering needle calibration is correct, before installing the metering diaphragm onto the fuel chamber.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Does this look normal?

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[Bonmotwang]

It appears they have already been opened and "cleaned" by someone. It's unnecessary to remove the two brass jets unless there is a large amount of corrosion, fuel gum and varnish normally can be dissolved by the acetone and solvents in brake/carb cleaner.

But, make certain the most critical orifices are clean, theses are the smallest passages in the entire carb beside the return fuel restrictors built into the fuel supply cover plate, those should be back-flushed with solvent also so don't forget them.

Then you can blow compressed air through these holes and inside the fuel bowl, etc., to blow away any remaining dust.

Yes, they are very clean. PPO did a good job except the final installation:-D

I used the sprayer go through all the passages. in and out spraying out, no where just streaming or dripping. two brass jets have been removed, again. very clean.

Do I need to take all the hoses off and spray through the fitting?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Do I need to use all the new parts from the rebuild kits? Those stock metal parts look good to me.
All it is no brainer to replace them with the new ones.

 

[Bonmotwang]

How about the exterior? They just look dirty.

 

[Bonmotwang]

It looks like I an ready to put assemble them together? Do I need to anything after using carb cleaner?


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[Bonmotwang]

How about the exterior? They just look dirty.

I will do work tonight. Take some time just do some basic cleaning the surface and those fittings.

 

[Bonmotwang]

First you need to pry the plastic cap straight up and off without turning it, then you will see the brass adjuster on the backside. Seat the adjuster if you can, but it should be lightly seated to closed already as it is with no adjustment to seat it further.

Just checked shop manual and some other threads in the forum. Factory setting for the high speed is "all the way in", port is totally closed. My carbs were opened to the max limit, which should be very rich.
Do I need to put it at 1/4 when I put them together?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Sportster, the oil puddle question. I don't see oil puddle in the bottom of the crank case by directly looking. Do I need to use something to reach the bottom of the crank case and check?

How much oil is normal?

 

[Waterluvr]

Just checked shop manual and some other threads in the forum. Factory setting for the high speed is "all the way in", port is totally closed. My carbs were opened to the max limit, which should be very rich.
Do I need to put it at 1/4 when I put them together?

The carbs need to be tuned out on the water under a load for expected operating conditions, the high side adjuster on the pto cylinder is just slightly backed off the seated position on my boat to balance the carbs and throttle response for pulling a skier.