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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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You need to rebuild those carbs anyways, not optional! :) If you don't want to mess with them just post them to me and I'll rebuild them for you won't cost you anything. Your doing a really good so far keep at it!

I'll be back later tonight to check in.
 
Were on the way home in the big boat and all I have is the phone right now, take a minute to read the cylinder removal steps in the manual it will show you exactly what to remove to get it free. I recall it referencing the carbs in cylinder removal so you're probably right.

The manual doesn't mention how to remove the cylinder with the engine in the bilge.
It only says you could do top end service without pulling the engine out.
I have 2 manuals: 1999 sportster manual and supplement for 2001. Seadoo didn't publish one for 2001 sportster le.
The 1999 manual only shows 787 and 717 engine.
2001 has info for 947.
But either of them mentioned steps for removing cylinder with the engine in the hull.


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I am removing the carbs now...

Searching how to remove it :-D
Was planing doing it when fullbore is working on the top end :-)

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Just noticed that the engine hook has been used.
So either this is a replacement engine or it has been serviced.
477.jpg



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Back to my computer to read more instructions. It looks like a lot of pipe removals. Phone screen is just to small lol


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Just noticed that the engine hook has been used.
So either this is a replacement engine or it has been serviced.
477.jpg



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It's not like the gents at the factory just hand them down to their associate in the bilge :) -Hard to say, I would suppose they have to use a hoist on the assembly line as a rule.

You really don't need any sort of device to take one of these in and out, I can't speak for the weight of your motor but a 787 or smaller can be lifted by hand easily sans the exhaust being attached.
 
Ok, this is my understanding:

Turn fuel valve off.
disconnect pulse line from fuel pump (no idea what is the pulse line)
disconnect fuel supply line (I think I know, it is a middle size black pipe coming from the tank, which I will sucking fuel out of it a the beginning of the season).
disconnect fuel return line (I think I saw it before, still in grey, going back to the tank)
disconnect oil injection pump cable, throttle cable, choke cable. (Unscrew all set screws, I think I need to be in the bilge to figure it out)
Remove 4 screws (I have taken off the one bolted to the tuned pipe head, I should put it back to kind of hold the assembly)

That is it? :lol:
 
I got the fuel line off and now taking a break with kids back home.
Some fuel came out of the carb. I put a big screw to cover the fuel pipe opening. Do I need to do more to take care of the fuel pipe?
 
I got the fuel line off and now taking a break with kids back home.
Some fuel came out of the carb. I put a big screw to cover the fuel pipe opening. Do I need to do more to take care of the fuel pipe?

Turn your fuel selector to the off position, and cut loose any retaining straps and move the supply hose to a level above the tank baffle connection to ward off any leaking.

You had asked about the pulse line, as you saw that connects to the engine case and provides the impulses needed to run your fuel pump. The motor creates both pressure and vacuum and subsequently that line supplies both to the fuel pump in order to operate these little one way valves on opposing sides.
fuel pump.jpg

We can talk more about those and the blue positioning indicator marks when you get into them.
 
Thanks. I guess the pulse line is hiding behind. And I can remove the carb assembly out loose and then disconnect the pulse line?

Also, in the manual, I read "cylinder alignment". Does it just mean to alignment the manifold with the exhaust pipe? No special things I need to be aware of, right?
 
Thanks. I guess the pulse line is hiding behind. And I can remove the carb assembly out loose and then disconnect the pulse line? Yes, it's hiding in back

Also, in the manual, I read "cylinder alignment". Does it just mean to alignment the manifold with the exhaust pipe? No special things I need to be aware of, right?
I would need to read that section, (and can't find the reference to it) not sure what the intent was other than it needs to be cut loose in order to get your cylinders free to move when your connecting the rods to the pistons on re-assembly.
 
I probably came across other manuals like 717 engine which has a cylinder aligning tool/plate. The 947 cylinder has dowel pins on both top and bottom, so there is no alignment to do. And I guess the tuned pipe head just need to be aligned with the cylinder and manifold port.

Sorry about the confusion.

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You're never going to make flat rate time bonus at this pace! Lol, sorry had to -that's a stipend some mechanics are paid for a completed job in a certain time frame.

Hard to do on anything older than ten years, things don't come apart very well at that stage and being heavy handed is a bad and expensive practice forcing things apart.

Anxious to see the rest of it as you get it apart, but probably not as anxious as Sportster is. I think he spent the day considering tearing his down for a look at things.
 
You're never going to make flat rate time bonus at this pace! Lol, sorry had to -that's a stipend some mechanics are paid for a completed job in a certain time frame.

Hard to do on anything older than ten years, things don't come apart very well at that stage and being heavy handed is a bad and expensive practice forcing things apart.

Anxious to see the rest of it as you get it apart, but probably not as anxious as Sportster is. I think he spent the day considering tearing his down for a look at things.

LOL. I am as anxious as you guys are.
Just need to squeeze my schedule to get to the boat :-D

Still trying to make up the August 2nd event at the harbour. I should get a quote from the local ex seadoo dealer for a top end rebuild. Anyway, bouncing ideas.

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Do you know the history on your motor, or in other words is it a reman or original? You're absolutely right about the base gasket impacting compression numbers.

I specifically went looking for the boat I have because I wanted a 787 motor for future service needs, one piece head with individual jugs. Mine is blowing compression numbers way to good to mess with it right now but if that ever changes it get's opened up on the spot.

Yes, it's the original untouched, piston skirts and ring lands looked quite good last fall when it blew 120psi.
 
Four bolts hold the carbs on, you need to remove the o-Rings on the carb inlet to make enough space for the bolt heads and your allen wrench. BTW, ditch those t-handle allens, you can't get enough torque!

There is a special wrench to reach the one exhaust manifold nut without removing the carbs, I have not removed mine.

My boat ran great again, today. :)
 
86* here tomorrow fellas, I'm getting my hind end drug around on the tube and stuffing post anchors into the bar for the rest of the day at the beach.
 
Bonmotwang, try to remove the exhaust without seperating the cone pipe if possible, I think it can be done this way?

Tomorrow I'm taking parts to the paint shop for refinishing. Today I stopped turning wrenches at 4:00pm and went to the sand bar.
 
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Bonmotwang, try to remove the exhaust without seperating the cone pipe if possible, I think it can be done this way?

Tomorrow I'm taking parts to the paint shop for refinishing.

I am trying to remove the cylinder without removing the pipe. Just separate the pipe and the manifold and slide out the cylinder together with the manifold, is it possible?


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Oh nice, and it even has a locator cut out in the gasket. PO's work = FAIL. Man, now I'm REALLY glad we talked/shamed/enticed you into this project. That had to have been leaking air...
 
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