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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
- Thread starter Bonmotwang
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Waterluvr
New Member
Yes Sir, just use two of the nuts from the head and screw them down to lock together and you can use those to back the studs out.Manual said you have to remove the rods/studs before remove the cylinder.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Used the iphone flash at the port. I thought iphone fits the rave port well, but too big :-D
I think this test doesn't count. But anyway no light leak that way.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
It is pretty tight. Is it normal way thread? I locked the two nuts by two wrenches, but they still moves together.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Too funny. Just realized that I need to take the whole exhaust out.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Yes, the manual mentions this before you commence engine disassembly of the top end.:cheers: It's not coming up and off of there otherwise.
You'll be glad you did this, so far it looks like you caught it just in time. The idea with a top end job is to buy some time and restored performance at a much reduced cost versus a complete rebuild and it's not even an option once something let's loose. Those cylinder pics are enough to show wear to the degree that what you're doing right now is in no way premature at all.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
No pitting lines at the walls so looks like no corrosion has happened or minor but got cleared by the rings.
There is a ridge near the top edge.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Actually I'm a little surprised at the amount of cylinder wear, I didn't expect this much. Now I feel a need to inspect my piston skirts through the RAVE ports again, last fall they still looked good but it blew 120psi then.
First time I checked my motor the day I bought it, it blew 135psi but I'm not sure how much oil may have been in the cylinders.
First time I checked my motor the day I bought it, it blew 135psi but I'm not sure how much oil may have been in the cylinders.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Nice. Just laughing at myself. Thinking it just slides right out LOL.
Should call it a day. Remove the exhaust with a clear mind (don't know how much time it takes). Thanks guys.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Ya know I'm really glad he's getting into this right now and not putting another minute on that motor, all that heat blowing by at TDC is heading right down into the case and crank and you know the rest of the story.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Ok friends. I wish we drink together.
Couldn't believe I yank the engine apart.
Do i need a lift to take the exhaust out. Or hair remove half of the pipe?
Looks like to rebuild the carb too if the big black pipe is out?
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Couldn't believe I yank the engine apart.
Do i need a lift to take the exhaust out. Or hair remove half of the pipe?
Looks like to rebuild the carb too if the big black pipe is out?
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
So if we can confirm the low end is good enough, I will ship the top end to fullbore on Monday. I may just drive to US and ship it to avoid custom delays.
Is it the plan? If no surprises?
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Is it the plan? If no surprises?
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Thanks. And appreciate all the help. I bought the carb rebuild kit last fall but didn't do it. Is the a way to add count balance oil from the top. :-D manual say 40ml. But with engine tilt in the bilge I was only able to put 15ml in before the last trip.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Yes, what we didn't see was deep scarring from a broken ring on the cylinder walls and that's a good thing! I set notifications up to come to my phone so when you get back to working on it tomorrow post and I'll get back with you.
I'm anxious to see what those pistons look like tomorrow.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Cool. I took a closer and awkward look though the raves again. It looks like the score lines are near the center of the rave ports. The mag side is much better.
I guess tomorrow we will nail down what is the cause and avoid it with the new top end?
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Do I need to spay some WD40 into those long stubs holes? It seems very tight.
Is it ok to have wd40 into the cylinder and water jackets ?
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Is it ok to have wd40 into the cylinder and water jackets ?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The amount of wear on the aluminum + silicon alloy piston will be greater than the amount of wear to the cylinder bore, once this wear increases to the point the clearance is increased beyond maximum tolerance the rings are probably quite worn and have lost their tension against the cylinder as well thus the sealing is compromised.
Pitting and scoring of the cylinder walls also contributes to combustion gasses blow-by, causing overheating of the rings and piston, and oil film failure due to heat (oil cokeing/varnish). Excessive piston clearance will allow to piston to turn sideways in the bore (unparallel) and the bottom skirt bangs against the cylinder (piston slap), this action can crack/break the skirt just above the bottom, depending on the profile of the skirt.
There is a good amount of carbon on the piston crown, indicative of overheating in low hour motors. If you decide to remove the pistons then it will be interesting to see the underside of the piston crown to see if there is carbon there also. If you find carbon on the underside of the piston crown, this confirms the pistons were overheating (most likely due to compression loss and excess tolerance).
Also I noticed the squish band of the cylinder head seems to be pitted (a sandblasted look), it seems like this may have occurred due to detonation, (the squish band is the most likely location where detonation occurs).
What I didn't see though, was pitting of the piston crown around the same location as the squish band, so I'm unsure if detonation was actually occurring or if the sandblasted look of the cylinder head squish band is a "factory feature".
Pitting and scoring of the cylinder walls also contributes to combustion gasses blow-by, causing overheating of the rings and piston, and oil film failure due to heat (oil cokeing/varnish). Excessive piston clearance will allow to piston to turn sideways in the bore (unparallel) and the bottom skirt bangs against the cylinder (piston slap), this action can crack/break the skirt just above the bottom, depending on the profile of the skirt.
There is a good amount of carbon on the piston crown, indicative of overheating in low hour motors. If you decide to remove the pistons then it will be interesting to see the underside of the piston crown to see if there is carbon there also. If you find carbon on the underside of the piston crown, this confirms the pistons were overheating (most likely due to compression loss and excess tolerance).
Also I noticed the squish band of the cylinder head seems to be pitted (a sandblasted look), it seems like this may have occurred due to detonation, (the squish band is the most likely location where detonation occurs).
What I didn't see though, was pitting of the piston crown around the same location as the squish band, so I'm unsure if detonation was actually occurring or if the sandblasted look of the cylinder head squish band is a "factory feature".
Waterluvr
New Member
This is a normal occurrence when piston ring and cylinder tolerances increase over time and normal usage, the result is additional heat transfer past the rings and down the piston skirts thus melting and transferring aluminum and creating the visible scoring you see and measurable loss of compression.
In addition, the heat from combustion not being contained on top of the piston and rings is being transferred to the lower end of the case and crankshaft and bearings instead of out the exhaust port.
Now you understand why I wanted you to start repairs now and not wait?
In addition, the heat from combustion not being contained on top of the piston and rings is being transferred to the lower end of the case and crankshaft and bearings instead of out the exhaust port.
Now you understand why I wanted you to start repairs now and not wait?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, you can spray WD-40, there will be no damage.
I suspect the studs were installed using lock-tite red so it may be necessary to heat them using a torch to soften the lock-itte.
I think you should be able to lift the cylinder assembly while the head studs are still installed, I don't understand why seadoo says you cannot..
Waterluvr
New Member
Go for it, that won't hurt anything and might help soaking those studs overnight.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Waterluvr
New Member
Yes, and normally with detonation issues the top of the piston and the squish area are both affected. Your's pistons don't show much for signs of detonation at all.
Here's an affected piston picture.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Agreed, this engine seems to be at the limit of it's normal service life. If kept running in this condition, mechanical failure will occur.
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