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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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OK, the manifold is off. Cylinder is still in place, couldn't get it loose yet. Call the day.

But I feel the piston skirt through the exhaust ports. You know what? they are as smooth as the cylinder wall!
Well first thought everyone would have is, what are the lines and colors.
I guess the colors are from the rust from sitting during the winter.
The lines I think is from the somehow touching the cylinder wall just a little of course with the oil film in between, otherwise it will be rough.
Also the normal heat and high pressure air leaking through the ring and blow on the skirt surface and causing the lines.

Anyway, I see this is a good news.

First of all, pistons look good and feel very smooth, so there hasn't been aluminum loss happened yet, or at least at the level I couldn't feel.
Second, we think we found out why the PTO piston has more lines than the MAG piston. The reason is the carb seal on the PTO side was off.

It was a long night. But fun! Touched something I may never be touching in my life! I love it.

A puzzle for you guys: how did I get the manifold off with the tuned pipe in the way? I will post pictures in 7 days.:lol:

Back to practical things:
Sportster's boat has the same compression as mine. so his top end condition is probably same as mine except no surface lines. It runs great. and without seeing those lines through the RAVEs, I feel the same :thumbsup:

I will clean up and rebuild the carbs for sure, I have the kit and the carbs are out.

Need your suggestions for the top end and consider my friends (OMG, my wife's friends!!!) are coming Aug 2nd. She told me today she had planned picnic at the beach with other 2 families. My heart was dropping like a mop at a moment:facepalm: But not big deal. Many other things to do on the beach anyway.

So I keep going and knock the cylinder loose and inspect the low end?
And package up the top end and send out to be rebuilt? Is cylinder boring a super high precision high tech? Can I try the ex seadoo dealer locally if their price is around $500 and timing is OK?

Thanks guys. No beer tonight, too tired. my Thinkpad is getting oily too, same as my iPhone, and my hand, and my face ... ZZzzzz too tired for a shower ... But hmmm, smooth pistons ... ...
 
Definitely keep going, your almost there. Cylinder boring is no big deal, any dealer with a boring bar or machine shop that does motor work can handle that and your cylinders definitely need it to clean them up.

All in, you got lucky to catch that cylinder and intake gasket when you did. I think $500.00 is far to much money for just the cylinder boring and parts compared to Full Bores price but it's really hard to pass on that if they turn it around in a few days and that get's you right back on the water for the rest of the season.
 
Quote is $170 for boring, $375 for parts, plus 13% taxes.


Edit: will call fullbore for lead time. Yes cannot beat their price. But I need to add $100 for shipping cost in and out US.

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13% taxes? OUCH!!! Whatever gets it done right and allows you some time to get back out on the water and break it in you need to put some time on that new top end before you go crazy with it.

With a fresh carb rebuild and compression back where it needs to be I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how it handles.

On Edit:

For $100.00 shipping, might as well use the local shop and leave shipping time both ways out of it. They might even have the parts in stock which would help you.
 
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13% taxes? OUCH!!! Whatever gets it done right and allows you some time to get back out on the water and break it in you need to put some time on that new top end before you go crazy with it.

With a fresh carb rebuild and compression back where it needs to be I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how it handles.

On Edit:

For $100.00 shipping, might as well use the local shop and leave shipping time both ways out of it. They might even have the parts in stock which would help you.

I tend to agree. It just takes the uncertainty out if the quality normally is not a problem for this type of job.

I am dealing with something for the business right now and will get back to the boat hopefully before lunch.
 
Phoned the local dealer. if he doesn't need to order cyclinders, 2 to 3 days lead time.
I also asked for the labor to put the top end back to the engine. it is 4hours x $85 = $340.
He told me it is even harder to put it back than taking it apart.

Edit: just phoned Fullbore. The lady told me at this time of the year no better than 7 to 10 days for the top end, plus 2 days her way and 2 days my way if I drive across the border for S&R.

Now all the options are there. I will take a minute to look at my work load and the weather forecast after I finish this App Enabled Refrigerator control design.
 
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I just filled the Sea Doo cooler with drinks, ice and some sandwiches for later. Hurry up, I can't leave until I see that top end off :)
 
I just realized you're in Burlington. I brought my 787 to jack at Ryno power sports there for a full rebuild. It was between 700 and 900 for the whole thing. He even reassembles including the pto, flywheel, rotary, does the timing, exhaust manifold, new oil lines, etc. Then all you have to do is plunk it back in the boat and connect a few things (he can do it for you but it's extra). Ignore his price list and just have a chat with him, I'm sure he'll give you a reasonable rate. He also does cylinder swaps if that's how you decide to go.
 
Yes. I know him. Do you get a warranty in the engine?


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Good question, I'll have to find my paperwork. I do remember a "bring it back if it isn't right, or if you need help with the install" as we shook hands. No way he'd offer a no fault warranty like the big shops in the states though. I had to weigh that against the cost of shipping, which doubled the price for me, and the speed in which he would have it back in my hands.
 
Good question, I'll have to find my paperwork. I do remember a "bring it back if it isn't right, or if you need help with the install" as we shook hands. No way he'd offer a no fault warranty like the big shops in the states though. I had to weigh that against the cost of shipping, which doubled the price for me, and the speed in which he would have it back in my hands.

Fare enough. All make sense.


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Take your time to take the 8 rods out. With 8 o-rings in place you would think somewhere is still binding. And Orings are tight.
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It it out. Couldn't get the card board sheet in. So I was make sure I have no tools parts in hand.
The rings are in good shape. Smooth and move freely. Edges are sharp. Spring in and out freely.

Top rings are both shiny. PTO Lower ring is smooth but black. MAG ring is smooth but dark not black.
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Checked the scored lines with my finger nail. So they are not as smooth as I felt through the exhaust ports.
The MAG piston is still very smooth though.
The PTO piston is not as smooth if feel by finger nails, but won't catch you finger nail.


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Question here: does the next side piston have bigger skirt or just bigger rings? The pistons in my engine are still in good shape mechanically, I think :-).
And the rings are spring loaded, So isn't the ring seals itself with the cylinder wall nicely if the wall is smooth?
I will look into the inside of the piston to check.


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Pretty clean PTO side
532.jpg


Edit: I mean the crank case

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PTO crack case photos
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534.jpg


They look brand new. Or they all look like that after 13 years?

I tried to push the piston side ways to feel the needle bear on both side. The piston will slide on the pin from end to end without catching anything. And when slides to the end it does have some side play. I will say less than 1/8" play feel at the piston.
The crankcase looks supper clean, which surprised me totally. No color, no black oil, no carbon residue, only nice sand blasted aluminum color.

Back to dealing with daily business now.
I will check the MAG side later.
Also I will post pictures of the back of the pistons which Sportster has been waiting for 48 hours. Had a peek, no hard carbon residue, but without flood lighting :-)
Ok, later!


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Question here: does the next side piston have bigger skirt or just bigger rings? The pistons in my engine are still in good shape mechanically, I think :-).
And the rings are spring loaded, So isn't the ring seals itself with the cylinder wall nicely if the wall is smooth?
I will look into the inside of the piston to check.


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The piston diameter is larger by the oversize amount. If the cylinder wall and piston are smooth and the clearance is within spec, the cylinder is round and not tapered within spec then you can hone the cylinder and install new rings. Also check the space between the ring and piston to see if ring lands are out of spec. The ring lands can wear also and the groove becomes too wide to make a good seal, gasses leak around the ring through the ring land groove.

Too much ring end clearance also is a leak point, place the ring inside the cylinder to measure, ring wear + cylinder wear results in large ring end gap minus the pin in the ring land that keeps ring from spinning around.

The rings will lose tension against the cylinder wall as they wear. Also, overheating can destroy the ring temper and the rings tension is lost (collapsed ring).
 
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