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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Perhaps this is possible, probably have to remove the mounting bracket bolts?

Now I see The 4th nut, it could be the problem, because the rod is in the manifold. So it will be in the way.
But I am loosing all 3 bolts and the 4th right now to see if I can wiggle the pipe head.


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Yes Sir, the piston size should be indicated on top. Were it ever bored they would be at least the next size up or larger. Also, that was a pretty good mark on the lifting eye where the paint was missing.
 
Is it ok just to loose this big clamping ring and only remove the tuned pipe head and leave the cone in place?
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Yes, you can leave the cone pipe in place but I'm wondering if it's better to remove this assembly in one piece if possible, to avoid an exhaust leak due to misalignment of this flange.

I don't know if it's possible to remove in one piece though, you may have to separate them.
 
So did you happen to see that Full Bore offers a 951 kit that includes cylinder boring, brand new crank and Rave mods for $875.00? That's sort of tempting...

I haven't checked Full Bore's options yet. I'm considering a complete used motor first, so it can be swap and go then have the original remaned anytime. It's not so hard to swap motors, I do this type of work every day anyway. EXCEPT I have to buy YET ANOTHER alignment fixture first, LOL!!!
 
Oh I know, I kept it all. Every last one of the Merc, OMC tools and Yamaha tools when I sold the marina. They wanted it for development and weren't interested in the sales and service side of things.

I still use most of all that quite often, it's just nice to work on things when I want to and not because I have to anymore :)

I have been eyeing SBT's alignment kit, looks good for the price.
 
We sold about 10 of them I think, one came back torn up from a ground strike and the replacement wouldn't shift. The lever arm on the drive was the wrong length, and was binding. I guess they made a change to the arm.
 
We sold about 10 of them I think, one came back torn up from a ground strike and the replacement wouldn't shift. The lever arm on the drive was the wrong length, and was binding. I guess they made a change to the arm.

If I recall they tried to wing me on my billable warranty rate because I didn't buy those drive tools. All I was stocking was 25 and under tillers and a couple larger 100 hp class 4 strokes.
 
Still fighting with the pipe. It won't come out as one piece because the fuel tank's 4 pipe in 1 is too close to the tuned pipe head. So the head has to come out first. But the head and cone seem to be stuck together by the red silicone pretty tight.


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Do I need hammer the manifold off too? 8 screws are out. But the manifold is still stuck with the cylinder.


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