2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

Or you could wait till after your friend visits, just make sure there's plenty of cold ones in the cooler in case you have to row back.

I am reading the notes you guys left here. If the local guy can do the job, probably it is a couple of days work? Just found his listed price:
951 Silver Motor Cylinder Exchange Carb
Includes 2 Bored/honed cylinders with new pistons and all top end gaskets
$500.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Lol that was my contention all along when I suggested holding off on ordering just the gasket kit until he could get it apart and evaluate what the crank and rods looked like, if it buys him 2-3 more seasons of use or gets him to the next boat it's worth the gamble.

Besides you know he's not taking our advice and doing it right with a proper reman so it's probably worth rolling the dice if there isn't anything that stands out when the top end comes off, 60/40 odds the new pills won't blow the crank apart before the first 40 hours pass.

That is unless there's crank bearing cage remnants already welded to the counterbalance weights when he takes pics later and posts them. *Fingers Crossed*

I am in agreement now to hold off the order on gasket. You are right it will be a waste once I decided to rebuild.
I am phoning my local seadoo service dealer now to get a price too.

If I couldn't get too much of help locally, I really prefer to leave the engine in place and rebuild the top end. Just couldn't have too much big chunk of time to deal with the whole engine installation and alignments for a first season owner

Step at a time maybe better. I don't know. But I am listening

 

[Bonmotwang]

This local ex Seadoo dealer still service seadoo boat. And charge $2200 for a whole engine rebuild. All I need to do is bring the boat in and pick up the boat in 8 to 10 days.
Their shop hour rate is $85.

Edit: just get my options listed here.
Fullbore is only $349 to rebuild the top end, Not sure why I thought it was $500.:facepalm:

 

[Waterluvr]

I would stick with Full Bore doing the top end, they use a real boring bar and get it perfect. That's not a bad price from the dealer, at one time Sea Doo offered a re-manufactured engine did they elaborate on where it was coming from, being done in house etc?

 

[Bonmotwang]

I would stick with Full Bore doing the top end, they use a real boring bar and get it perfect. That's not a bad price from the dealer, at one time Sea Doo offered a re-manufactured engine did they elaborate on where it was coming from, being done in house etc?

Talked to Jeff again. He said they do everything in house, "everything inside the engine case is top notch". They will use the original case.


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[Waterluvr]

Well, you have good options. If you decide to go the top end route just send your Raves along to Full Bore and they can trim them as needed while they are doing the cylinder work. At least with them there's no guess work involved in proper sizing and I see they send back wrist pin clips to use needle pliers on them to make getting it back in the groove easier.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I looked through the RAVE ports the other day, didn't see any aliens there :-D

Oops, I posted that in the wrong thread, sorry!

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?72539-RAVE-can-it-affect-compression&goto=newpost

 

[Bonmotwang]

Oops, I posted that in the wrong thread, sorry!

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?72539-RAVE-can-it-affect-compression&goto=newpost

Should have a broadcast feature :-D

Talking about overheat. After 6000RPM for 15 minutes, what temperature normally is on the big black exhaust pipe?
I remember I checked once, it is almost too hot to touch.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Under normal conditions I think you can expect it will be less than 100C in any location, this is a general design rule.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Have you done the math yet, including shipping an engine both ways and the alignment tool you will need, + crating materials, bla, bla, etc.?

While you're fast asleep, I'm thinking of alternatives... And, I've been thinking of the future, what my plans might be when the day arrives and what I can do to prepare in advance (you should see all the non-Seadoo stuff I've collected over the years, LOL, sigh). Anyway, here's one idea and maybe having a spare motor wouldn't be such a bad idea?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400743277931

 

[Bonmotwang]

Under normal conditions I think you can expect it will be less than 100C in any location, this is a general design rule.

Wow it is pretty hot. I think what I touch was about 75C


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[Bonmotwang]

Have you done the math yet, including shipping an engine both ways and the alignment tool you will need, + crating materials, bla, bla, etc.?

While you're fast asleep, I'm thinking of alternatives... And, I've been thinking of the future, what my plans might be when the day arrives and what I can do to prepare in advance (you should see all the non-Seadoo stuff I've collected over the years, LOL, sigh). Anyway, here's one idea and maybe having a spare motor wouldn't be such a bad idea?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400743277931

Crating May cost $100 for the material from homedepot. But I have to drive 60 minutes across the border to do shipping and same for receiving. Receiving is another $30. Alignment tool $190. Is it the only tool I need to swap the engine?

But does this 15 years old engine need to be rebuilt pretty soon?


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[Bonmotwang]

Ok a couple of offers for $6000 and $6500 if water test goes well.


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[Waterluvr]

Huh!? You went from top end job to either buying or selling (not sure which) lol.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Huh!? You went from top end job to either buying or selling (not sure which) lol.

It is selling it.

Just the day I was wondering about a bigger boat, I PMed our super duper challenger 1800 rebuilder for his beautiful top notch boat and got a price from him, then I became hopeful for a bigger one for myself.
So I listed my boat right away. Yes, a few people called.

Just a side option there. Not like people in the business, some decisions are just not obvious for me LoL.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Have you done the math yet, including shipping an engine both ways and the alignment tool you will need, + crating materials, bla, bla, etc.?

While you're fast asleep, I'm thinking of alternatives... And, I've been thinking of the future, what my plans might be when the day arrives and what I can do to prepare in advance (you should see all the non-Seadoo stuff I've collected over the years, LOL, sigh). Anyway, here's one idea and maybe having a spare motor wouldn't be such a bad idea?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400743277931

Did a little more digging on eBay. This one is actually so far the best complete 947 engine available on ebay. 135PSI :drool5:
Are you watching it?

 

[Bonmotwang]

New understanding about the scored lines.

Are the lines actually caused by the hot air sneaks through between rings and cylinder and melt the piston skirt and got blew away?

They are not caused by piston skirt contacting cylinder, so not by friction.

Looking at my terrible picture again. Metal to metal contacting and rubbing shouldn't be able to create a big and even scored surface like that and with rings still mostly working, and the lines come right to the edge of the lower ring.

 

[Waterluvr]

It is selling it.

Just the day I was wondering about a bigger boat, I PMed our super duper challenger 1800 rebuilder for his beautiful top notch boat and got a price from him, then I became hopeful for a bigger one for myself.
So I listed my boat right away. Yes, a few people called.

Just a side option there. Not like people in the business, some decisions are just not obvious for me LoL.

Cool! If you sell it, just direct them right back to this thread so we can help them get it fixed when the motor pukes lol!

Did a little more digging on eBay. This one is actually so far the best complete 947 engine available on ebay. 135PSI :drool5:
Are you watching it?

Of course he is he wants the exact same thing I do; an original complete motor no one's been into yet to have rebuilt the right away, slather the internals with fogging oil and all the intake and exhaust openings sealed from atmosphere sitting quietly under a dust cover with gasket kits and some spare parts waiting until that day comes to wake it up. They don't make these 2 strokes anymore and there's a finite supply of engines out there that haven't already been to a hackery mill for a production line rebuild.

While 4 stroke engines are cleaner and quieter there's a whole bunch more involved in fuel injection and required sensor operations, cooling systems with heat exchangers, superchargers, etc. that require more time and technology to repair and a whole bunch more money that goes along with it for routine maintenance.

Or in other words, having a new 2 stroke Rotax built up with an extra starter and set of carbs mounted all ready to drop in and go have fun on the water with is an entertainment value when something pukes in the middle of July and the best machine shops in the business are booked with work so deep they can't see straight.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Cool! If you sell it, just direct them right back to this thread so we can help them get it fixed when the motor pukes lol!

Best one of the week! LOL

Of course he is he wants the exact same thing I do; an original complete motor no one's been into yet to have rebuilt the right away, slather the internals with fogging oil and all the intake and exhaust openings sealed from atmosphere sitting quietly under a dust cover with gasket kits and some spare parts waiting until that day comes to wake it up. They don't make these 2 strokes anymore and there's a finite supply of engines out there that haven't already been to a hackery mill for a production line rebuild.

While 4 stroke engines are cleaner and quieter there's a whole bunch more involved in fuel injection and required sensor operations, cooling systems with heat exchangers, superchargers, etc. that require more time and technology to repair and a whole bunch more money that goes along with it for routine maintenance.

Or in other words, having a new 2 stroke Rotax built up with an extra starter and set of carbs mounted all ready to drop in and go have fun on the water with is an entertainment value when something pukes in the middle of July and the best machine shops in the business are booked with work so deep they can't see straight.

Hey Sportster, what if we bank it together and see whose blows up first :cheers:

 

[Waterluvr]

Best one of the week! LOL



Hey Sportster, what if we bank it together and see whose blows up first :cheers:

No worries, judging from all that scoring and coking on your piston the sea trial for the buyer will likely be the epicenter for that meltdown event.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Opening the head right now.
Do I just unscrew the 8 nuts with thread exposed? Checking the manual too

Edit: do I need special tool to take the piston pin out?

Edit: ok i got the instruction

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[Waterluvr]

Yep, you answered your own question. Atta boy! Where's Sportster hiding anyway's? It's probably nice down there and he's at the lake for the weekend.

Those head bolts coming out ok for you?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Did a little more digging on eBay. This one is actually so far the best complete 947 engine available on ebay. 135PSI :drool5:
Are you watching it?

Yes I saw that one but I do not believe 135psi is accurate and there are no photos of the piston skirts or ring lands, that's the first reason I didn't mention it and the second reason is the flywheel and some other hardware is not included.

Anyway, today I measured compression twice. First before starting, the motor was sitting one week and hadn't been oiled after use. It blew 122psi both cylinders on this gauge I've been using 25+ years (I bought this gauge ~1980).

2nd test was after running for 3 minutes at 3000RPM in the water, I could feel the cylinders were slightly warm and the exhaust manifold was at operating temp, I lifted the boat from the water and measured 122psi again on both cylinders.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Ok 15 bolts and nuts loose


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[Bonmotwang]

Yes I saw that one but I do not believe 135psi is accurate and there are no photos of the piston skirts or ring lands, that's the first reason I didn't mention it and the second reason is the flywheel and some other hardware is not included.

Anyway, today I measured compression twice. First before starting, the motor was sitting one week and hadn't been oiled after use. It blew 122psi both cylinders on this gauge I've been using 25+ years (I bought this gauge ~1980).

2nd test was after running for 3 minutes at 3000RPM in the water, I could feel the cylinders were slightly warm and the exhaust manifold was at operating temp, I lifted the boat from the water and measured 122psi again on both cylinders.

Hey. Do I need to just put the nuts back. I hasn't open the head yet.
Your psi is same as mine!

Yes 3000RPM only makes my engine head warm, once I reported cold I believe.

Edit: hello? LoL

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