Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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The seal was aged and broken. Cut another one from my jeep part. Fits perfectly.
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Stealing parts shows true love! So now the Jeep has only three mud flaps remaining?
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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
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Stealing parts shows true love! So now the Jeep has only three mud flaps remaining?
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Where are you going to put the shunt for the amp meter? I am a little concerned about getting into the high current circuit for starting. Voltage meter is enough to tell you the battery condition when it is dipping on load.
Just some experience from what I do for living :-D
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Just some experience from what I do for living :-D
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Stealing parts shows true love! So now the Jeep has only three mud flaps remaining?
LOL. Not from there.
I am putting on a hinged roof rack (2" steel tube set). The rubber pads are for between the hinge and the rear bumper. I just decided I don't need them.
Of course the decision was quickly made when I was hunting for a rubber pad :-D
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Not in the starting circuit, I'd place the ammeter in series with the voltage regulator output but I have to route that through the helm, extra work! Yeah, yeah, everybody prefers a voltmeter but I've found more bad and undercharged batteries over the years by watching the ammeter than the voltmeter, easy to see a shorted cell that constantly pulls current from the alternator while running.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Okay man, good to know you haven't lost ur mind yet. Was beginning to wonder what a Sportster LE might look like with a jeep grill and fenders mounted on the bow. Hopefully the Sportster doesn't catch "Jeep flu" from these parts!
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I see, that would make sense.
How about my cylinder temperature monitor idea. Is it going to tell us anything about the engine?
Using this type of meter
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Digital-Ther...LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e81745837&_uhb=1
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think if there's a lot of debris in your lake like weeds and such might help, otherwise it would be interesting to know normal head temps while running but at least you already have a buzzer to warn you.
When the motor goes kaput there probably won't be much advance warning, I think this happens mostly when riders get too WOT happy or careless with maintenance like using skunky fuel that's too old. I think by the time you hear a bad noise it's already too late and won't take too long to start chunking a connecting rod so may as well shut it down and if nothing obvious found like a stick in the pump then beg for a tow.
Was also thinking of a run time hour meter might be nice to have as well.
When the motor goes kaput there probably won't be much advance warning, I think this happens mostly when riders get too WOT happy or careless with maintenance like using skunky fuel that's too old. I think by the time you hear a bad noise it's already too late and won't take too long to start chunking a connecting rod so may as well shut it down and if nothing obvious found like a stick in the pump then beg for a tow.
Was also thinking of a run time hour meter might be nice to have as well.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Something else that temp gauge might be useful for is to fingerprint the normal exhaust system temps at various locations, like the water box and expansion pipe.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Going to Lake Erie on Canada day long weekend. It is first time 2 hours away. Doing some inspection now.
Did a cold start, started with choke in 6 seconds and idle at 3000RPM for 10 seconds. No creeping up today.
Looked into the nozzle with flash light, the white wear ring is smooth, blades are good. No oil on the wear ring. Just a few drops of water from the engine start a moment ago.
Tried to look from the weed grill, but boat is to low for me to get under.
But noticed some silicon seal is missing at the bottom. Photo attached. Do I need to touch it up, just using normal silicon?
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Did a cold start, started with choke in 6 seconds and idle at 3000RPM for 10 seconds. No creeping up today.
Looked into the nozzle with flash light, the white wear ring is smooth, blades are good. No oil on the wear ring. Just a few drops of water from the engine start a moment ago.
Tried to look from the weed grill, but boat is to low for me to get under.
But noticed some silicon seal is missing at the bottom. Photo attached. Do I need to touch it up, just using normal silicon?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Are there screws holding the aluminum ride plate on? I can't see the screw heads!
I think if you can suck air into the impeller from around the ride plate and pump support or shoe then you can use some sealer like silicone but your speed seems to be normal and not cavitating or ventilating the impeller so I don't see any problems from these photos or the performance assuming the ride plate mounting screws are still installed.
Did you check/change the crankcase balance shaft oil?
I think if you can suck air into the impeller from around the ride plate and pump support or shoe then you can use some sealer like silicone but your speed seems to be normal and not cavitating or ventilating the impeller so I don't see any problems from these photos or the performance assuming the ride plate mounting screws are still installed.
Did you check/change the crankcase balance shaft oil?
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Screws are all there and tight.
I didn't check/change the crankcase balance shaft oil.
I have some time today and tomorrow. Do I need any special tool / extra seal just for checking?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
And have you jacked up the axle on each side to spin the trailer wheel to listen to the hub bearings and make sure they don't make a rough sound, check tire air pressure as well?
Are the trailer lights all working, and the boat transom is tied down well to trailer using nylon cargo straps?
Are the trailer lights all working, and the boat transom is tied down well to trailer using nylon cargo straps?
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Good idea to check the hub bearing!
Yes, I checked the tire pressure.
Yes, just replace one side light and have one in the bin for spare.
Yes, transom straps are all working.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You can fill in the countersink holes using silicone if you want to make the bottom smoother and maybe gain some speed.
There should be a small volume of oil in the very bottom of the counterbalance shaft cavity, I would try to see if I can see it. Maybe you can suck the old oil out and replace it with new oil. Otherwise you don't know if it's empty or low until after the gear teeth are damaged. Manual says use 30wt motor oil but I used the same oil as the jet pump, gear oil, like the 951-DI specifies.
Just an idea of something to check, no special tools or sealer is required. The allen head screw has a metal (copper?) gasket under the head so be careful not to lose the gasket into the bilge. I reused the metal gasket.
Have fun and be safe!
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
You can fill in the countersink holes using silicone if you want to make the bottom smoother and maybe gain some speed.
There should be a small volume of oil in the very bottom of the counterbalance shaft cavity, I would try to see if I can see it. Maybe you can suck the old oil out and replace it with new oil. Otherwise you don't know if it's empty or low until after the gear teeth are damaged. Manual says use 30wt motor oil but I used the same oil as the jet pump, gear oil, like the 951-DI specifies.
Just an idea of something to check, no special tools or sealer is required. The allen head screw has a metal (copper?) gasket under the head so be careful not to lose the gasket into the bilge. I reused the metal gasket.
Have fun and be safe!
Ok I found it on my engine.
I checked the manual, very interesting, one of the engine photo doesn't show the oil plug/screw there. Is it an older model or newer model?
Other photos in the manual do show the oil screw/plug
And manual says: When engine assembly is completed, add 40 mL (1.35 oz) of motor oil SAE 30 to the counterbalance shaft gear through the crankcase filler plug.
Remove plug and add SAE 30 motor oil
I will give it a try tonight.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The 951 DI is slightly different b/c of the counterbalance driven air pump this cavity is vented to avoid internal pressurization. Maybe you have some photos of the DI motor creating confusion or maybe there was a change, not sure actually.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Found something in the bilge.
I can only tell one part: from the spark plug.
What are the other things? wondering if my engine is missing them LoL.
I can only tell one part: from the spark plug.
What are the other things? wondering if my engine is missing them LoL.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I don't recognize any of those pieces except the spark plug cap, maybe some other boat exploded nearby yours?
My uncle used to work in a boat factory (Larson) and told me they experienced fires often.
My uncle used to work in a boat factory (Larson) and told me they experienced fires often.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I am glad I bought a brand new class B/C fire extinguisher from Lowes.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Dug out the link you posted a while ago.
http://www.seadoosource.com/reservoircheck.html
DI has different shape in the clam shell design.
I check the part list
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...&d=-CRANKCASE-W/-ROTARY-VALVE-AND-SHORT-BLOCK
and my manual.
As I pointed on the screen shot:
There is a different in the drawing for this plug. On my manual, that space doesn't exist, on the part list, the space is there for adding oil.
Very interesting. Maybe they have some prototypes designed without oil plug, and drawing got generated at that time.
Or there are some 947/951 carb engines produced without the oil plug? :-(
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Hmm, maybe the 1998 951 was this way?
Speaking of putting out fires, today a friend brought me the carburetor off his boat and asked me to go through it. I said sure, just hang around a 1/2 hour and you can take it home.
So I opened up his carb and it smelled of Gin inside, so I asked him what this smell was? He told me he ran out of gasoline and wanted to see if he could start his boat so he poured some gin inside the carb, LOL.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Did he get the engine started?
For the counterbalance shaft oil. Do I need to control the volume? Just afraid I cannot get most of the old oil out.
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For the counterbalance shaft oil. Do I need to control the volume? Just afraid I cannot get most of the old oil out.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Is the C shape the C clip for the carbon seal ring on the drive shaft?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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I think it's diameter is too large?
I guess the gin didn't work, but he told me it was good gin.
If you can't suck out the oil there isn't enough there? I tried and couldn't, so I added some.
Next time I will try a Mcdonald's straw and flatten it first, but my attempts didn't work.
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