2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I should add, that several posters here claim they use Amsoil in their seadoos and say it performs to their expectation, usually they don't give a lot of specific detail concerning how they're using it, such as if they are running it through the injection system or pre-mixing, no detail on how many trouble-free hours they've been running their 951 on the stuff, I need specific info like that to convince me.

I would almost bet you though, the Interceptor oil is a much better choice than whatever mystery oil is currently in your oil tank.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Running the blue stuff for two more trips may not be a good idea either.
I guess I give the Amsoil a try?

Agree, I certainly think you would be better off with the Interceptor than the blue stuff currently in your tank, that's my opinion.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I should add, that several posters here claim they use Amsoil in their seadoos and say it performs to their expectation, usually they don't give a lot of specific detail concerning how they're using it, such as if they are running it through the injection system or pre-mixing, no detail on how many trouble-free hours they've been running their 951 on the stuff, I need specific info like that to convince me.

I would almost bet you though, the Interceptor oil is a much better choice than whatever mystery oil is currently in your oil tank.

Probably I should return one Gallon and put one gallon of Interceptor into oil tank. Order XPS on ebay and when the Interceptor is close to minimum level, I do this drain/refill thing again.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Just to make sure I understand this steps correctly.
Drain, I can do.
Refill, I can do.
But flush, what should I use to flush the tank? Or just let it dripping for 30 minutes?

Edit:
About pinching the hose.
View attachment 25466

You can let it drip, but there will still be a small amount of blue oil in the tank around the bung fitting where the oil line connects. I just sacrificed some XPS-2 (about a half quart) to do the flush by pouring it into the oil tank and allowing it to run through the tank down through the oil line and into my catch can. This was my flush, by using some XPS-2 to flush the tank and line clear of remaining green mystery oil.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I didn't pinch the location you asked about, I just kept the green oil inside from pouring out by keeping the end high and not allowing it to fall into the bilge and drain out. I was more concerned about keeping air from entering the oil pump. It's down from the oil strainer and I think the major risk is gravy in the oil strainer.

Also as a test, you can mix some blue mystery oil and Interceptor oil and allow it to set for overnight and see if it separates in a clear jar or becomes lumpy gravy. I just drained/flushed everything including tank, tubing down line and oil strainer while keeping the mystery oil in the tubing connected at the oil pump. I didn't want any air to enter the oil pump b/c I didn't want to bleed air from the oil pump.

Then I splashed the boat and went for a ride, so any trace of the remaining mystery oil in that short tube was used that day and the XPS-2 displaced it.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Probably I should return one Gallon and put one gallon of Interceptor into oil tank. Order XPS on ebay and when the Interceptor is close to minimum level, I do this drain/refill thing again.

I think I've read Amsoil interceptor claims to be completely compatible with XPS-2, and to me this makes sense b/c the detergent package should be similar, it's not a hydrazine type of detergent package like TCW-3, I think mixing the API-TC and TCW causes this lumpy gravy issue.

So if you switch to XPS-2, try to run your oil tank low, or you can dump the last bit of interceptor in a catch can and not worry about flushing b/c it's "compatible".

 

[Bonmotwang]

Finally I levelled my trailer. I know somebody pointed out that issue 6 months ago. 3.25" drop is what it needs.
I always need to back the trailer almost 100% into the water to get the boat onto the rubber roller because the bow couldn't reach the roller. I think with 3.25" drop, that problem should be automatically fixed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Working on stuff not engine related now
The front cooler hinge is broken. I bought a piano hinge to fix it. When I took apart the lip I spotted 4 holes near the hinges, one of them has a plastic plug. Just curious was something mounted there?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Working on stuff not engine related now
The front cooler hinge is broken. I bought a piano hinge to fix it. When I took apart the lip I spotted 4 holes near the hinges, one of them has a plastic plug. Just curious was something mounted there?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are four fasteners on each hinge, the plastic plug just covers the head of the fastener. My hinges are still fine but I'm sure eventually they will break, I'm planning to use some plastic from a white bleach bottle if possible, to make a new pair of hinges.

I think you don't need the plastic plug, sometimes it seems to interfere with the door operation if they fall out and are trapped in the hinge, also I think there are some rivets used to attach the hinges and they must be drilled out?

Good job on the drop drawbar, I bet the trailer towing behaves better.

 

[Bonmotwang]

The hinges are mounted on the other side beside the holes.

Edit: The 4 extra holes are covered by the rubber seal around the opening. It doesn't make sense they had something mounted there. Could be used in another model shared the same hull design.
And quick note here about the screws: the screws on the lid is machine screws with nuts on the other side, the screws on the hull are self tapping. I will change it to machine screws too and put a nut on the other side.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The hinges are mounted on the other side beside the holes.

Edit: The 4 extra holes are covered by the rubber seal around the opening. It doesn't make sense they had something mounted there. Could be used in another model shared the same hull design.
And quick note here about the screws: the screws on the lid is machine screws with nuts on the other side, the screws on the hull are self tapping. I will change it to machine screws too and put a nut on the other side.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah that's right, I think those empty holes are there so you can reach the screws from underneath using a screwdriver, I forgot about that. Then the plastic plugs might keep water out and of course covers the ugly hole.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Oh yeah that's right, I think those empty holes are there so you can reach the screws from underneath using a screwdriver, I forgot about that. Then the plastic plugs might keep water out and of course covers the ugly hole.

Ah ha right, for screw drivers!

I just realized I has been driving without the boat license. I thought the trailer owner ship was my boat license, and I truly believe I threw the really boat license into the garbage because I thought I already have one. LOL

I just applied for a duplicate. It takes 9 days because they only take mail, yes mail, hopefully not by horses.

I haven't changed the oil yet, otherwise the blue and the API-TC would be mixed for 9 days.

I will fix the hinge during the waiting time. Or some other maintenance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

A failed experience:
Did everything to make a pair of hinges from a piano hinge. But when I was trying to put it on the lid and hull, I found out it was pulling the lid hull to closely. It will work, but I think the metal hinges just put too much force to the Fiberglass. The plastic hinge will take the abuse when something is forcing the lid and give in. But with metal hinges it will be the Fiberglass to give, which is more expensive to fix.

Now I bought some gorilla glue and plastic packaging material to fix the broken plastic hinges. I hope it will work out.

Was going to make a work log. But now it is a bad example :-D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, when the day arrives I face this same repair I plan to attempt making new hinges using some pieces cut from a white plastic bleach bottle. (FREE$$$ recycled materials!)

 

[Bonmotwang]

I also tried to start engine today because it's been sitting almost two weeks now.
Used throttle to pump the fuel 5 times, then press the start, the motor started to crank, but won't start.
With choke pulled, still no luck.
Then pumped the fuel by using throttle for 5 more times, then motor was "trying" to start, and saw white smoke coming out. it will start at 1000RPM for a few seconds and die.
Pumped the fuel a few more times, then start, boom, 3500RPM and slowly rising as usual.

So I guess because it's been sitting for so long, somehow I need to "prime" the fuel line for so many times?
I hope it isn't showing some other problems.

 

[USAF_Pride]

You probably flooded it. Pull the plugs and dry them out and bump the starter without the plugs in to get all the extra fuel out. I just choke mine and it starts. It may take 2 start cycles of 5 seconds, but it starts.

 

[Bonmotwang]

You probably flooded it. Pull the plugs and dry them out and bump the starter without the plugs in to get all the extra fuel out. I just choke mine and it starts. It may take 2 start cycles of 5 seconds, but it starts.

How does the flooding happen? By pushing the throttle handle, is it possible to flood the engine?

I checked the plugs after first 5 seconds try. The gaps were not bridged.

 

[USAF_Pride]

I believe your carbs have an accellerator pump on them. Everytime you push the throttle you squirt gas into the cylinders (I read that somewhere in the owners/shop manual). The gap won't change on the plugs if it is flooded. Were the plugs wet or dry?

 

[Bonmotwang]

I thought the pump will only pump fuel into the carbs which I have seen, not directly into the cylinder.
I will do another test tonight. Will check if the plug is wet or not before the test.
And I will try to start before I do any pumps.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Was looking for the boat license. Found a note the previous owner left for me. The oil he put in was "injection oil, 2 stroke marine".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Was looking for the boat license. Found a note the previous owner left for me. The oil he put in was "injection oil, 2 stroke marine".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now my memory came back. He said it was seadoo's oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Texted the PO. He said he just went to a seadoo dealer told them the boat model, and took whatever they gave him.

Edit: I got the marine shop he went to. I will stop by on Saturday with some oil from my tank to see they can tell.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Today is kids' PA day.
We went out again, last minute decision! Very very nice day and not many boats. This is the longest trip we have gone. Kids are more used to the speed and waves now. But nobody else wanted to drive LoL. The 3 years old lost his hat, the 7 years old managed a successful rescue :-D.

We went straight 8KM out through a big bridge and 8KM straight back.
All the way 5500RPM, speed between 20-30MPH. Had a couple of rest in the middle.
The bimini was up, looks nice, feels cool

I feel 5500RPM is the sweet spot. Engine sounds trying harder when the speed is lower. Maybe just my ears. :-D
Tried 6000RPM a few seconds, the boat did speed right up.

Paid some attention on when it is running at 3000RPM which is speed I used to go in and out the no wake area. The engine sound smooth, except some a "pop" sound, probably 6 times per minute. Is this the "misfire"? I know nothing about misfire BTW.

Kids didn't want me to beach today, but they promised they will do next time :-D

All good.

Thanks folks and have a wonderful night

Edit: confirmed it is not the wind pushing the boat to the right. I had to hold the steering wheel at 45 degrees CCW to go straight. Before the trip I check the alignment by eyes and it is centered with the steering wheel. Maybe I need to put some resistance on the nozzle and test cable slack?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Texted the PO. He said he just went to a seadoo dealer told them the boat model, and took whatever they gave him.

Edit: I got the marine shop he went to. I will stop by on Saturday with some oil from my tank to see they can tell.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mystery oil update.
Phoned the marine shop, the guy told me if people asked for suggestions for carb 947 oil, they would always have suggested XPS 2 full synthetic, which is not blue (reddish right?). He wouldn't even suggest Amsoil personally.
But he said a couple of years ago they had an big inventory clearance. Some old XPS 2 full synthetic got sold in cases. The old XPS 2 is bright blue which is the color in my oil tank. The PO owned the boat for about a couple of years if not 3. So the timing is about right.
I maybe lucky to have a full tank of The good stuff?

Does the color story and timing make sense?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bonmotwang]

Yes, when the day arrives I face this same repair I plan to attempt making new hinges using some pieces cut from a white plastic bleach bottle. (FREE$$$ recycled materials!)

bleach bottle probably will work. Make sure the cut a sample and bend it for 100 times and make sure it will hold.

I was going to use bleach bottle piece to glue the broken ones back, using plastic glue with activator. But that couldn't get the hinge pieces and bleach bottle piece hold together. Maybe I need to try different glue.
So I decided to pick my fight :-D ---- Ordered 2 sets from OSDparts.com for $30.

Now I am waiting for yours to break and expecting your rework instructions. :thumbsup: