USAF_Pride
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Not sure if "every" one does, but the ones in the seadoo boats are supposed to. The only way to be sure is to put enough water back there to test the switch.
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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
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Not sure if "every" one does, but the ones in the seadoo boats are supposed to. The only way to be sure is to put enough water back there to test the switch.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
So the pump switch on the dash board is just for "testing" purpose?
The switch on the dash is there if you want to manually turn it on. IT should also turn on automatically by the float switch.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Carbon Seals do not NORMALLY leak when sitting at the dock per day. However, if the boot fails or things are worn it can easily allow water into the hull and sink a ski/boat
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Just interested about the drive shaft seal structure. Understand in the pump there is a seal to seal the oil in it. Here between the hull and the driveshaft, is the carbon ring the seal and being ground under 6000RPM?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Spinning with near zero friction at 6000 RPM while being lubricated by a thin film of water, which explains the difference and why it's unwise to run your engine for more than a couple minutes on the trailer unless you remove the stainless steel tensioning ring.
BTW, this carbon ring seal design is identical to that used in your automobile freon compressor input shaft seal, except in that case oil is the lubricant.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Not all of them have this function, the better ones have this automatic float switch feature.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You have this option but if you maintain your injection system properly then this is unnecessary. The injection system is very robust but it isn't completely idiot proof.
BTW, my oil low light flashed briefly on Saturday and there was about 1/4 tank of oil remaining. So I will add two quarts of oil to the tank soon.
Bonmotwang
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I will get the XPS on Friday. I will switch out the blue stuff. Do I need to clean the tank for the XPS or just drain and refill?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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See post 667 here, this is how I accomplished this switch back from mystery oil to XPS-2:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?66994-2001-Seadoo-Sportster-LE-Just-got-it!/page27
Generally TCW oils use N2H4 (hydrazine) as a component of their detergent package, this low temperature detergent package gives the oil a tell-tale ammonia odor. Combining this oil directly with other types such as API-TC can lead to viscus molasses/gravy in your oil injection system b/c the two detergent packages are incompatible.
So it's important to remove as much of the TCW oil as possible before refilling to the correct type of oil however you wish to accomplish this, I ran my boat on the lake immediately after this change to flush remaining traces of the TCW and avoid possibility for congealing into molasses/gravy.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?66994-2001-Seadoo-Sportster-LE-Just-got-it!/page27
Generally TCW oils use N2H4 (hydrazine) as a component of their detergent package, this low temperature detergent package gives the oil a tell-tale ammonia odor. Combining this oil directly with other types such as API-TC can lead to viscus molasses/gravy in your oil injection system b/c the two detergent packages are incompatible.
So it's important to remove as much of the TCW oil as possible before refilling to the correct type of oil however you wish to accomplish this, I ran my boat on the lake immediately after this change to flush remaining traces of the TCW and avoid possibility for congealing into molasses/gravy.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
OK, I will drain the tank following #667. How much of blue will be left in the system? or how long should I run the boat at 5500RPM to run out of the blue oil?
Edit: Is it better to add 2 Gallon of XP-S into the tank instead of one?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I keep my oil tank at 1/2 full or less, in case an expensive oil leak might occur. Normally when I fill the tank I fill no more than to the alarm level sensor mounting bung on the starboard side of tank.
I think it won't make any difference if you fill the tank completely, except the risk of leaking expensive oil increases.
If you can drain/flush/refill just before your next trip to splash the boat, the risk of gravy contamination is less and I think 1hr of running during the day will be sufficient to purge out the remaining mystery oil before it can combine into lumpy gravy.
Out of curiosity, you can test the propensity of "lumpacity" by mixing a small amount of the two oils and observing this undisturbed solution for a few days, I did not attempt this.
I think it won't make any difference if you fill the tank completely, except the risk of leaking expensive oil increases.
If you can drain/flush/refill just before your next trip to splash the boat, the risk of gravy contamination is less and I think 1hr of running during the day will be sufficient to purge out the remaining mystery oil before it can combine into lumpy gravy.
Out of curiosity, you can test the propensity of "lumpacity" by mixing a small amount of the two oils and observing this undisturbed solution for a few days, I did not attempt this.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
The oil I got. I thought it is XPS. But is this amsoil better than the XPS or equivalent?
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Bonmotwang
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I found a guy 2 minutes away from my home. He repairs seadoo jetski as his side business. I borrowed his calibrated compression kit and checked my engine again, cold, 125PTO, 120MAG. I told him, "I like your gauge". And he said to me that the gauge I borrowed is 3-5PSI lower than his $500 gauge. I said:"then I like it even better :-D"
Edit: I bought oil from him too.
He can also bore cylinders.
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Edit: I bought oil from him too.
He can also bore cylinders.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
First of all, it must be better than mystery oil b/c at least you know what it is. Or do we? But I don't run amsoil in anything so I cannot speak for it's performance.
Seadoo lays it out pretty clearly by specifying API-TC low-ash FULL synthetic for the Rotax 951, right?
Okay, so what is Amsoil Interceptor really?
A couple of specific questions:
1)API-TC specifies a API-TC low-ash package, right? It doesn't mention on the Amsoil label it's low-ash, does this one contain a low-ash additive package?
2) Which type of base oil is used? Thee are three types of synthetic oil, Seadoo specifies FULL synthetic for the Rotax 951, right?)? I ask b/c, the definition of "synthetic" is also rather lose in the oil industry, group III/IV/V base oils all qualify for this definition but there are major differences between them, read this:
http://www.belray.com/2-stroke-lubrication
I can't say which base (V maybe?) is used in the XPS-2 "secret sauce" b/c it's a trade secret, all I can say is up to now is XPS-2 meets expectation in my 951 endurance experiment.
Seadoo lays it out pretty clearly by specifying API-TC low-ash FULL synthetic for the Rotax 951, right?
Okay, so what is Amsoil Interceptor really?
A couple of specific questions:
1)API-TC specifies a API-TC low-ash package, right? It doesn't mention on the Amsoil label it's low-ash, does this one contain a low-ash additive package?
2) Which type of base oil is used? Thee are three types of synthetic oil, Seadoo specifies FULL synthetic for the Rotax 951, right?)? I ask b/c, the definition of "synthetic" is also rather lose in the oil industry, group III/IV/V base oils all qualify for this definition but there are major differences between them, read this:
http://www.belray.com/2-stroke-lubrication
I can't say which base (V maybe?) is used in the XPS-2 "secret sauce" b/c it's a trade secret, all I can say is up to now is XPS-2 meets expectation in my 951 endurance experiment.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Thanks. This was my concern. I am on Amsoil website doing some homework now. Just don't want do the drain/flush/refill twice.
I can give the oil back to the guy no problem. And keep using the blue oil for another two trips before i get the XPS in.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Your compression seems to be where it should be, I may measure mine this weekend. Last weekend was like most, splash boat and go!
Does he specialize in reboring Amsoil cylinders?
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Does he specialize in reboring Amsoil cylinders?
You are mean :-D
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
There is one aspect I find in the Bel-Ray literature that I cannot agree with, that is some synthetic oils are known for being hygroscopic and synthetic oils are also known to more rapidly run off cold metal surfaces than mineral oil, thus since we are not privy to the formula of the secret sauce then from the perspective of corrosion protection I believe mineral oil should perform better as a storage protection oil film.
Here is the story of synthetic refrigerant oils, where the truth about moisture absorption is an important aspect:
http://www.behrhellaservice.com/behrhellaservice-com-en/assets/media/TM13_Oelflyer_GB_J00583.pdf
Bel-Ray said this, and in the case of group V they are correct but it is the base oil type that makes an synthetic oil inherently hygroscopic:
"The additives included in 2-stroke oils are also very important when considering component protection. They enhance the intrinsic performance of the esters to complete this protection for an optimal running engine. Since the oil film on the parts is so complete and resolute, the corrosion protection is just as complete and resolute."
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Maybe he specializes in XPS-2 cylinders, but mostly I expect Rotax TCW-3 cylinders?
Bonmotwang
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My homework:
About ASH:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?44153-Amsoil-Injection-Oil&p=200713&viewfull=1#post200713
According to this post, Amsoil Interceptor is low ash, which is what I bought. Their another type "injector" is ashless.
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/interceptor.htm
Just quote from this page:
The AMSOIL Interceptor oil (AIT) if formulated from premium-quality synthetic oils and a potent additive package
The ash type chemistry used in AMSOIL Interceptor 2-cycle injection oils are very potent and limit the carbon deposit formation. Proper amounts of ash are critical and provide excellent results.
About Fully Synthetic:
I did find some links saying it is 100% synthetic, and even a weird people saying "100% is different than fully"??
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Just to make sure I understand this steps correctly.
Drain, I can do.
Refill, I can do.
But flush, what should I use to flush the tank? Or just let it dripping for 30 minutes?
Edit:
About pinching the hose.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Right, I sorta get the feeling I'm being carefully mislead by cloudy language and unknowns I guess. My point is if Amsoil clearly stated on their Interceptor label it's a low-ash synthetic group V synthetic then there would be no question but since it doesn't and it also doesn't say was tested and approved by Seadoo or Rotax for Rotax 951 then I don't know if it's properly formulated. Even Rotax has qualified Aeroshell mineral oil for their ultralight engines so it is possible for this kind of OEM qualification.
Heck, Rotax is a division of BRP and even the Aeroshell 2-stroke oil was "Fully Approved by Rotax"!
Here's what Shell says, so if Shell did this then why doesn't Amsoil at least state on the (freekin') package it's a low-ash formula???
"AeroShell Oil Sport Plus 2 is the first aviation quality oil that has been specifically developed for Light Sport, Very Light and Ultralight 2-stroke engines such as the ROTAX® air and water-cooled series engines."
"Fully approved – all ROTAX® 2-stroke series engines, ROTAX® Service Instruction SI-2ST-008. "
http://www.shell.com.au/products-se...ubricants/piston-engine-oils/sport-plus2.html
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Running the blue stuff for two more trips may not be a good idea either.
I guess I give the Amsoil a try?
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