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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Can I open red cap underneath the oil tank to get some sample out to see what color is it?

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By the way, I did find some pictures I took last fall with oil tank in them. The oil level seems to dropped a little :-) (1/8" maybe)
 
I am replacing the bracket 274000662 right now.

I took off the broken part, the cut is pretty smooth. It's been there for a while I guess.
Is the exhaust mounted to the engine at 3 points: two brackets and the engine exhaust port?
I checked the other bracket by hand, didn't feel any cracks.

Tried engine again. It idled exactly at 3000RPM for 20 seconds no problem. So if it was too lean and may only a hair too lean? :-)
 
Without support bracket I can see the engine plate :-)
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Can I open red cap underneath the oil tank to get some sample out to see what color is it?

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By the way, I did find some pictures I took last fall with oil tank in them. The oil level seems to dropped a little :-) (1/8" maybe)

Avoid doing anything to the tank at the bottom that might cause it to leak, the oil is messy and expensive.
Remove the cap and sniff to see if there is an ammonia smell, that would indicate TCW-3 outboard oil (high nitrogen hydrazine).

The best way to sample the oil is by disconnecting the tube from the strainer, you probably have to cut the tie-wrap zip tie. Be careful it comes out quickly, so use a catch can and cover the tube using your finger, get a rag to wipe up any spills. Twist and pull.
 
Avoid doing anything to the tank at the bottom that might cause it to leak, the oil is messy and expensive.
Remove the cap and sniff to see if there is an ammonia smell, that would indicate TCW-3 outboard oil (high nitrogen hydrazine).

Just did a sniff. no ammonia smell. It smells, but not stinky or strong. I would say a little sweet even.
 
Normally TCW smells of ammonia(good ones, like mercury and yamalube), this is the low temperature marine engine detergent package. Most of these are bluish color but color means absolutely nothing, others are red or orange too.

There's only one way to know for sure what's really in there, meanwhile until you can fix this run her easy. My boat had mystery oil in it too, I bet it was TCW outboard oil.
 
Normally TCW smells of ammonia(good ones, like mercury and yamalube), this is the low temperature marine engine detergent package. Most of these are bluish color but color means absolutely nothing, others are red or orange too.

There's only one way to know for sure what's really in there, meanwhile until you can fix this run her easy. My boat had mystery oil in it too, I bet it was TCW outboard oil.

I will run her just enough to take onto the plane.
The one gallon of XP-S 2 stroke is on its way. After i receive it, I will just drain out the mystery oil and put the XP-S in. If it accidentally get air bubbles in, is it a big deal to do a bleed? The manual said only a screw to loose.

What is the color of your XP-S oil?


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Yeah, you better get some fuses in there, plenty of bad stuff can happen instantly, with 1000amps behind those wires.

Found a good solution from the 750mA charger I bought. It has the eye terminal for mounting on the battery and the inline fuse protecting from short conditions.
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I will get a rocker switch and mount it somewhere beside the main switch.


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I think you can carefully do this without getting air in, but there is a screw on the pump directly above the valve lever arm you can loosen to bleed your seadoo. Don't overtighten this screw, it might break off. I think it has a 10mm hex head on this screw. Watch as bubbles move and disappear as air comes out this screw
 

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"So I can use this oil to do the squirting after each trip?"
Yes, it's quite good for this, more than necessary. I'm using old TCW right now for fogging, this one was left here by a visitor and it's just cheap TCW.
 
I think you can carefully do this without getting air in, but there is a screw on the pump directly above the valve lever arm you can loosen to bleed your seadoo. Don't overtighten this screw, it might break off. I think it has a 10mm hex head on this screw. Watch as bubbles move and disappear as air comes out this screw

The oil pump is low at the bottom, will the air bubbles just come up and escape into the oil tank? So If you don't drain all the oil from the low part of the pipe or change the pipe, it is hard to get the air bubbles into the oil pump.

Did I get this correct?

I am just trying to careful here, according to everyone is talking (fighting) about here, OIL seems to be one of the few most important things to protect your engine.


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If you are careful, there will be no air trapped in the oil tubing from tank to pump. I made two drawings(c) to illustrate how I did this, part 1 and part 2. You can "tap" the side of the oil strainer as you lower it in part 2, to dislodge air bubbles trapped inside if necessary.

Also as you said, some air bubbles can rise into the oil tank from the tubing and escape if some is trapped but air can also rise into oil pump so that section must not have air allowed into the tubing.
 

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If you are careful, there will be no air trapped in the oil tubing from tank to pump. I made two drawings(c) to illustrate how I did this, part 1 and part 2. You can "tap" the side of the oil strainer as you lower it in part 2, to dislodge air bubbles trapped inside if necessary.

Also as you said, some air bubbles can rise into the oil tank from the tubing and escape if some is trapped but air can also rise into oil pump so that section must not have air allowed into the tubing.

Nice and clear drawings! Thanks.
Very clear now.
Looks like the most important thing is never let the tube connected to oil pump get low.

I am canadian Tire for some car wash stuff. Also picked up some clear tubings for my boat. Not sure where to use them yet:-D. Maybe for priming the fuel or squirting oil with a syringe.
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I want to install two fogging injection nozzles into my airbox.

May I try some slushy ice drink? :)

Hey, did you want to make a fogging kit? I thought it is a very nice tool for every 2-stroke "sea-doo" to have :-D. Good idea!
We can design a retro fit or easy fit kit. For other brand, I will make sure it WON'T fit :lol:
I do 3D designing and prototyping as my hobby. I have access to my friend's plastic prototyping shop and his CNC/lathe shop for metal work.

We can start a new thread to take pre-orders.

What do you think? :cheers:

Then if I get a slushy ice drink, you get one.
 

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I'm thinking of something like this, for oil injection fogging at end of ride (insitu). I like my choke and fuel accelerator pump as they are, just need a knob to push for a shot of oil at end of ride.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JET-SKI-SEA...-DUAL-PRIMER-KIT-JETSKI-SEA-DOO-/321282890644

So the idea is to fog the engine through the carb openings without opening the engine cover after pulling the boat out of the water, right?

I have a low cost design in my mind now. Is $99.99 acceptable for a retail kit? (Myself will buy one right away if it is available at that price!)

The installation is easy:
1) unplug the oil pipe from the retainer upper port.
2) put a fogging fitting in between
3) Install fogging injectors/nozzles inside the air silencer (some gluing or small hole drilling may be involved).
4) connect the injector to the fogging pump
5) connect the fogging fitting to the fogging pump
6) connect the fogging pump power line to boat battery.

The control is through your cell phone or a remote button on your dash board.
Fogging oil amount can be set and will be accurately controlled. (in +/-2mL).

With design nailed down and enough "pre-orders", I probably can get the prototype approved by end of July. and shipping on end of August.

The only question which could be the deal killer: Is it going to be safety hassle if there is an oil pipe or oil path between carb opening and the oil tank, in back fire situation?
 
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So the idea is to fog the engine through the carb openings without opening the engine cover after pulling the boat out of the water, right?

The control is through your cell phone or a remote button on your dash board.
Fogging oil amount can be set and will be accurately controlled. (in +/-2mL).

Is it going to be safety hassle if there is an oil pipe or oil path between carb opening and the oil tank, in back fire situation?

Yes, fog without entering bilge. From captain's helm is delightful.
The only potential safety hazard is slipping on the oil like a banana peel.
Cell phone activation is great idea, like remote starting from shore. :)
 
Yes, fog without entering bilge. From captain's helm is delightful.
The only potential safety hazard is slipping on the oil like a banana peel.
Cell phone activation is great idea, like remote starting from shore. :)

Banana peel doesn't count. :-D
Ok, if I got enough spare time, and weather doesn't allow boating, I will start designing a trip (not seasonal) fogging system for my 2001 sportster first.
Bud, for sure you will be the second on the list to test. :cheers:
 
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