Can I open red cap underneath the oil tank to get some sample out to see what color is it?
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By the way, I did find some pictures I took last fall with oil tank in them. The oil level seems to dropped a little (1/8" maybe)
Without support bracket I can see the engine plate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Are you using the loc-tite blue thread locker?
Avoid doing anything to the tank at the bottom that might cause it to leak, the oil is messy and expensive.
Remove the cap and sniff to see if there is an ammonia smell, that would indicate TCW-3 outboard oil (high nitrogen hydrazine).
Tried engine again. It idled exactly at 3000RPM for 20 seconds no problem. So if it was too lean and may only a hair too lean?
Normally TCW smells of ammonia(good ones, like mercury and yamalube), this is the low temperature marine engine detergent package. Most of these are bluish color but color means absolutely nothing, others are red or orange too.
There's only one way to know for sure what's really in there, meanwhile until you can fix this run her easy. My boat had mystery oil in it too, I bet it was TCW outboard oil.
You can't get a better fogging oil than that one, it's quite fancy for the purpose. Any cheap 2-stroke non-synthetic will do a better job than synthetic for protecting against storage corrosion.
Yeah, you better get some fuses in there, plenty of bad stuff can happen instantly, with 1000amps behind those wires.
I think you can carefully do this without getting air in, but there is a screw on the pump directly above the valve lever arm you can loosen to bleed your seadoo. Don't overtighten this screw, it might break off. I think it has a 10mm hex head on this screw. Watch as bubbles move and disappear as air comes out this screw
If you are careful, there will be no air trapped in the oil tubing from tank to pump. I made two drawings(c) to illustrate how I did this, part 1 and part 2. You can "tap" the side of the oil strainer as you lower it in part 2, to dislodge air bubbles trapped inside if necessary.
Also as you said, some air bubbles can rise into the oil tank from the tubing and escape if some is trapped but air can also rise into oil pump so that section must not have air allowed into the tubing.
I want to install two fogging injection nozzles into my airbox.
May I try some slushy ice drink?
I'm thinking of something like this, for oil injection fogging at end of ride (insitu). I like my choke and fuel accelerator pump as they are, just need a knob to push for a shot of oil at end of ride.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JET-SKI-SEA...-DUAL-PRIMER-KIT-JETSKI-SEA-DOO-/321282890644
So the idea is to fog the engine through the carb openings without opening the engine cover after pulling the boat out of the water, right?
The control is through your cell phone or a remote button on your dash board.
Fogging oil amount can be set and will be accurately controlled. (in +/-2mL).
Is it going to be safety hassle if there is an oil pipe or oil path between carb opening and the oil tank, in back fire situation?
Yes, fog without entering bilge. From captain's helm is delightful.
The only potential safety hazard is slipping on the oil like a banana peel.
Cell phone activation is great idea, like remote starting from shore.