• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Based on this, I think your engine may last many more years if it's oiled properly and you don't run it very had WOT for long periods.

I don't recommend running on the hose, thus I don't run my boat more than 30secs out of water. Mainly b/c there's too much chance of leaving water in the exhaust that causes corrosion, and it's too awkward to connect hose, turn on, turn off, etc.

30 seconds of running should say enough to know if boat is splash worthy, and it's enough to distribute the normal amount of oil onto the cylinder liner, and approximately duplicate the conditions of running.

I feel if the engine is sitting clod for days, the oil runs down off the cylinder sleeve back into the crankcase, thus ring seal is not going to be as good. Synthetic oils don't stick well to cold surfaces either, they run off quicker, this is why I prefer using non-synthetic for fogging when the choice is available.

110 stone cold is perhaps a little low on the one, but I wouldn't worry about it as long as that cylinder is still firing normally and you don't plan to become speed racer.
Click to expand...

Your comments are encouraging :-D

I found it is kind stressful too when doing the hose on and off timing, especially with a few "immediately" terms in the manual instruction.

I will check if the small bottle I bought for the "oil cable back up plan" is synthetic or non-synthetic. If not I will get a bottle for the syringe.

This blue boat is for family, no speed racer. Tried to pump up the 3 seat Sea-Doo tube (about 7 feet wide), it is very nice and comfortable to sit on, it has a back too. So cruising at 20MPH, and towing at 10MPH maybe the maximum usage I would expect from her.

But I may get more into this jet boating thing in 2 or 3 years after I am more comfortable with the thingy involved in jet boats. Plus I love to be able to work with into engines and jet pumps.
 
The kids should like the seadoo tube I think they will enjoy it. You can tie it to your stern eye so it sits on top of the swim platform as you ride around with family inside the boat.

A 75~100ft tow rope is the correct length, not shorter.

And, don't run over the rope or suck it onto the jet pump. :( A heavy duty rope can cause more damage than a lighter rope, if it's sucked into the pump. I use a plastic rope made for skiing, it's braided and made from polyethylene, I believe.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Towed away.....

You'll like a longer rope, the jet blast can land on your skier victim and the longer rope allows you to swing them wider behind the boat. Besides, you may run the rope over and resplicing the damaged section will make it shorter too.

Remind the tube passenger he can jump off or let go if the ride gets too wild.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Towed away.....

You'll like a longer rope, the jet blast can land on your skier victim and the longer rope allows you to swing them wider behind the boat. Besides, you may run the rope over and resplicing the damaged section will make it shorter too.

Remind the tube passenger he can jump off or let go if the ride gets too wild.
Click to expand...

Canadian Tire doesn't have anything more than 60ft! I will pick up one from the States when I pick up boat parts.

Also I found out the previous owner didn't put an inline fuse for the CD player and fish finder. I guess he figured those 16AWG wires are the fuses, or fireworks :-D
 
Yeah, you better get some fuses in there, plenty of bad stuff can happen instantly, with 1000amps behind those wires.

If CT only has 60ft, then get two and learn how to splice, cut 20ft off one and splice it to the 2nd one. The extra rope can be kept as spare, likely you'll need it or maybe you can use it for dock line but the feel of that cheap rope to me is appalling for dock line, I need good woven nylon, ski rope does okay for anchor line, 40 ft could be enough for that.

For an anchor, use a metal (stainless) shackle to connect rope and get the smallest you can find galvanized danforth anchor and put some mold resistant carpet in your ski locker so the fiberglass doesn't get beat up. No need for any chain, you're not anchoring at sea. I use a spiral dog tie-out to screw in the ground to tie the stern off to shore, a nice 1/4" nylon rope works well. All of this goes in ski locker with the wooden paddle your wife uses to strike you with when the engine fails to run.
 

Attachments

  • $_1.JPG
    $_1.JPG
    8.9 KB · Views: 4
It's hollow braided rope, so it's easy to splice. My rope is made from about 4 sections of different colors, orange, purple, yellow and maybe blue or green. The handle harness section is separate so I can easily remove or connect it to another rope.

This guy shows how to make the loop and then connect them together after making the loop to adjust rope length on the fly, or remove a damaged section and add another.

http://extremekites.com.au/knowledge/splicing_rope
 
I just bought a boat insurance.
$330/year including the boat and liability and towing.

I guess it saves me from beat up if engine fails?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
It's hollow braided rope, so it's easy to splice. My rope is made from about 4 sections of different colors, orange, purple, yellow and maybe blue or green. The handle harness section is separate so I can easily remove or connect it to another rope.

This guy shows how to make the loop and then connect them together after making the loop to adjust rope length on the fly, or remove a damaged section and add another.

http://extremekites.com.au/knowledge/splicing_rope
Click to expand...

Step 3 looks wrong to me according other pictures.
I thought the pliers should go into and through the hollow "pipe", not just go across it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I got clear photos for the 2 stroke oil I bought:
282.jpg


283.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My most common splice is the eye loop. I run both ends of the ropes through the opposite eyes to join the two sections and it's easily reversible for flexibility.

Here's a link to a better instruction sheet, I may tie a knot in the joint just above the eye so it cannot come lose, although it's been a while since I was messing around with them so honestly don't remember exactly if I used the knot in my rope but I did make it in multi-colored sections.

http://www.dcl-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/PI00_Cordage_Synthetic-Ropes_Part19.pdf
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
My most common splice is the eye loop. I run both ends of the ropes through the opposite eyes to join the two sections and it's easily reversible for flexibility.

Here's a link to a better instruction sheet, I may tie a knot in the joint just above the eye so it cannot come lose, although it's been a while since I was messing around with them so honestly don't remember exactly if I used the knot in my rope but I did make it in multi-colored sections.

http://www.dcl-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/PI00_Cordage_Synthetic-Ropes_Part19.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks! A very good instruction sheet.
 
Bonmotwang said:
I just bought a boat insurance.
$330/year including the boat and liability and towing.

I guess it saves me from beat up if engine fails?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

A boating accident can be a horrible situation. Is insurance required in Canada? Here it isn't, and there are plenty of crazies out there. Our auto insurance covers liability damage to others while towing a trailer.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
A boating accident can be a horrible situation. Is insurance required in Canada? Here it isn't, and there are plenty of crazies out there. Our auto insurance covers liability damage to others while towing a trailer.
Click to expand...

Our auto insurance does cover damage when towing the boat, but not in the water.

Insurance is not mandatory in Canada either. Life is already too complicated but beautiful, just for peace of mind. :-)
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Towed away.....

You'll like a longer rope, the jet blast can land on your skier victim and the longer rope allows you to swing them wider behind the boat. Besides, you may run the rope over and resplicing the damaged section will make it shorter too.

Remind the tube passenger he can jump off or let go if the ride gets too wild.
Click to expand...

In the box there is a short cable with loops at the end. What is it for?
289.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here is the new exhaust support. I took it apart. The rubber washers look ok to me. I may save the broken one for future if I can weld it back.
299.jpg


300.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bonmotwang said:
In the box there is a short cable with loops at the end. What is it for?
289.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Looks like a piece of cheap rope, you can see the knot tied at the top of the loop there to help keep it from coming apart. Maybe he was using it as a dock line. Good stuff to use if you expect it's going to get mangled, but not a pleasant rope to handle like woven nylon.

BTW, I've always kept a woven nylon dock line attached to my front bow eye, to grab when trailering or otherwise handling the boat (it has many convenient uses, such as it gives a swimmer a grab near the water line at the bow in case he's tired or hurt).

This bow line is also tied from it's connection at the bow eye to one of the front cleats to keep it from being under the boat but most importantly it must be short enough it can't enter the jet pump, in case it does fall overboard.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bonmotwang said:
Here is the new exhaust support. I took it apart. The rubber washers look ok to me. I may save the broken one for future if I can weld it back.
299.jpg


300.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Looks clean. Those rubber grommets need to be in good condition, in order to effectively dampen vibration. One idea if they're lose and sloppy maybe some 3M weatherstrip adhesive gobbed on can tighten them up till a fresh set comes along.

Actually, 3M 4200 would be a better choice, or 5200 if you never plan to disassemble it ever again b/c 5200 is a polyurethane adhesive and you'll need a blowtorch to remove it. Only use the 5200 if you don't plan to remove whatever it is you're installing, LOL, I've seen the 5200 stuff used to mount stern drives and boy was that a mistake, the only way to remove that thing was by cutting the transom.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
USAF_Pride said:
If my French is still good, it says "Not recommended for motors that require TC-W oil". Seadoos require TCW (TCW3 = BAD)
Click to expand...

Yeah, keep the TCW away from these motors unless you need something to fog with but even that can cause too much confusion, otherwise those TCW's are outboard 2-stroke oils.

Stick with the API-TC synthetic for the RAVE motors, although you might get by with non-syn in the RV motor. The 951 ring velocity is pretty high at WOT so it's risky to use non-syn, best to stick with BRP's recommendation.

Robert did a pretty god job of explaining most of the reasons in his article:

http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Looks clean. Those rubber grommets need to be in good condition, in order to effectively dampen vibration. One idea if they're lose and sloppy maybe some 3M weatherstrip adhesive gobbed on can tighten them up till a fresh set comes along.

Actually, 3M 4200 would be a better choice, or 5200 if you never plan to disassemble it ever again b/c 5200 is a polyurethane adhesive and you'll need a blowtorch to remove it. Only use the 5200 if you don't plan to remove whatever it is you're installing, LOL, I've seen the 5200 stuff used to mount stern drives and boy was that a mistake, the only way to remove that thing was by cutting the transom.
Click to expand...

Yes, the 2 grommets are very tight with the support bracket. I pried them out carefully with a screw driver.

Just amazing to me how much force the broken one has been taken to break itself even with the rubber grommets in between!
 
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

G
Seadoo sportster Le
Replies
1
Views
231
rhauss7
R
E
Help Removing drive shaft from 2002 GTI LE
Replies
3
Views
127
rusty nail
rusty nail
C
Where can I get a jet pump housing for 1998 Sportster?
Replies
3
Views
114
etemplet
etemplet
C
Where can I get a jet pump housing for 1998 Sportster?
Replies
0
Views
86
coachjjohn
C
MoveAround44
1996 Sportster - Need Help Getting the Driveshaft off the Engine
Replies
5
Views
211
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top