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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Thanks for the reference pictures.

Is there anyway to know if the oiling is working?

My oil tank is almost full. Just wondering if the oil ever got pumped into to the motor :-D (maybe over concerned).
 
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Thanks for the reference pictures.

Is there anyway to know if the oiling is working?

Yes, by rotating the oil pump lever to about 75% of travel from idle rest position you will open the valve and increase oil flow. At idle, this should result in a noticeable increase of smoke in the exhaust.

I think maybe you could fog the engine this way, and I've been thinking of trying to grab the control wire by using a stiff wire with a hooked end to yank the lever and open the valve while idling.

It's really quite reliable, most failures in the oiling system occur from lack of maintenance to broken/leaking rubber oil lines, or air bubbles remaining from inadequate purging after maintenance.
 
Even a string might work but difficult to connect. You will need to run much longer than 30 seconds for this test but you can try something like that, or hook it using a wire like this (in green) and pull up maybe:
 

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Even a string might work but difficult to connect. You will need to run much longer than 30 seconds for this test but you can try something like that, or hook it using a wire like this (in green) and pull up maybe:

Yes. Hook from top makes more sense.
So I can do this test in the water right?
 
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Yes. Hook from top makes more sense.
So I can do this test in the water right?

Yes, in the water or on the hose if you wish, whichever works best for you. I think it takes much longer than 30 seconds to see the result. I'm thinking of trying this myself, to see if it's a good way to fog after stopping for the day.

So let me know how you did this if you try.
 
So extra oil is always good?

I will put the boat into water then set the idle screw to keep the motor idling in water.

Then I will pull the green hook to see if more smoke coming out of the water.

And I will keep the smoke going for 45 seconds?


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My oil tank is almost full. Just wondering if the oil ever got pumped into to the motor.

This is a very valid question b/c if the motor is not being oiled it will fail and a replacement motor is not free! There is also an environmental footprint impact resulting from remanufacturing a motor. Remember, we had to increase our environmental impact at US taxpayer expense to create demand and rescue General Motors from bankruptcy?

I fill my oil tank 1/2 full or less, in case there is some kind of accidental leak. There is no need to keep it full IMO.

All of last year I ran this boat at least 6 hours probably over 10 hours, and used maybe 1/4 tank, there is still 1/4 tank remaining and when the red light comes on soon I will add 2 quarts of oil.

I'm waiting for the red light and watching the tank before adding b/c I want to test the light. I'm not relying on the light to remind me to fill the tank, I'm relying on the light to tell me my oil leaked out.
 
I hope the previous owner added the oil just before it got sold to me :-D

But I remember he was talking about fogging the motor.


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So extra oil is always good?

And I will keep the smoke going for 45 seconds?
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Extra oil is wasted oil and maybe fouled spark plugs. Lack of oil is a ruined engine. This is why I like oil injection, it doesn't waste oil.

But I like to oil my motor after each use, to keep rust from happening during it's vacation. I think saving oil from injection leaves me enough oil for fogging.

You can stop the extra oil when you are satisfied there is too much oil smoke. I cannot see oil smoke when operating my boat with injection, I can smell it though. I know there is enough storage oil when fogging by judging the smoke b/c normally there is no smoke.

I guess it's the same for testing the oil injection, open the valve till smoke appears and then the question is answered if it's working.
 
Yes, tonight you checked the oil injection pump mechanical calibration. The oil is injected to the vacuum intake manifold of both cylinders near the carburetor.

So oil pump works when the crank draft rotates.
The oil pump lever is linked with the throttle cable, so the throttle is directly controlling how much oil going into the engine then.
Is the oil pump totally shut or slightly open when the mark lines line up (idling)?

I am enjoying 2-stroke 101 now :cheers:

I got into a conference call with someone from the other side of the border in the morning.
The new plan is to do water test tomorrow morning before it rains.
 
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it's a little open, it always has to give you some oil when it's running, otherwise your engine will eat it
 
it's a little open, it always has to give you some oil when it's running, otherwise your engine will eat it

I see. thanks.
I guess the manufacturer doesn't want you to "fine tune" the opening at all by saying the marks have to be lined up.
 
Well, they allow you to put MORE oil in, or less if you want to run a little premix or something. Lining up the marks is usually a good baseline for most people.
 
My understanding for the 951 at idle it's very near or equal to zero oil being injected. This isn't necessarily a problem b/c the crankcase "stores" oil and the load is light during idle, so not much is needed. At the end of each ride, I like to "top up" the crankcase by fogging the motor.

Here's a link to an article that I agree with mostly, I think it provides good insight:

http://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/content/threads/pre-mix-101.5691/

Also there are several other articles I linked earlier in your thread, some of which were written by Gordon Jennings, he was an undisputed expert on the subject of 2-stroke motocross race engine tuning.
 
Thanks. I liked the part he explains how the mixed oil actually lubricate the engine and timing.


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Two things I disagree with him are: 1) we're not trying to burn the oil, and 2) too much oil doesn't cause deposits like he says, but he's vague on details of this claim and I don't know his experience or conditions. In my experience, varnish deposits occur from too much heat.

In Gordon Jennings dyno testing of oil ratios he noted high temps from low oil ratios cause heat and hence varnish deposits as the oil turns gummy from the heat.

Fortunately our new API-TC oils are quite good and well formulated with lubricating metal salts additives, they are great for keeping the tight cylinder tolerances from being changed from varnish deposits as long as oil temps are kept normal. Synthetic oil is well known for reducing deposits and even removing varnish deposits under normal operating temperatures. Our engines produce a large amount of heat (calculate 100,000KW heat!) so it's important we use the correct good quality oil in adequate quantity.

Synthetic oil absorbs atmospheric moisture though, this is why 2-stroke aviators prefer mineral oil.

Here is Gordon's article from many years ago:
http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf
 
I am putting the throttle assembly back. It is tight and tend it tip to on side a little. Sound like the side if the hull is touching the lower part of the shift assembly.

Also a weird thing happened after I put the 4 screws in and tried to push the shift into forward, just after the shift handle moved about 0.5", I heard a humming sound coming from the back. I pulled it back to N right away. The power was off, the fuel valve was off. Not sure what happened.


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Does the steering wheel go back to center when I let it go?
Mine only does that at the very end.


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All the back end is back, but I have a screw left. Scary isn't it?
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