2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

Thanks!I need to do some homework to find out how to do the adjustment. I will check my manual first.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

"The carburetor linkage doesn't move full travel"

Yes, the plastic turnbuckle connects both carburetors together so the PTO carb is synchronized with the MAG carb. The throttle cable is connected to the MAG carb.

I have to ask when this happened, and say I think the throttle cable may not be out of adjustment, I believe it is improperly connected at the carburetor. There are two holes in the MAG carb bell crank where the throttle cable wire connects and the throttle cable barrel that's molded onto the end of the throttle cable wire is probably inserted to the incorrect position on the bell crank.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

This is a drawing to illustrate the point of connection and how the cable may be incorrectly attached.

This is not a 951 carb assy but it's close enough to make the comparison. After correcting this issue, you should confirm the actual adjustment is correct, also the oil pump adjustment (there's that word again! )

 

[Bonmotwang]

So hard to see it.
I am using iphone front camera as a mirror to see. But I couldn't tell if it is right.

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[Bonmotwang]

Also when the throttle pushed to the max, the throttle valve is not 90 degree. It is about 45 degree between choke valve and throttle valve.


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[Bonmotwang]

OK, I went to the other side. I opened the throttle control box. Found the cable is loose as I expected.

You can see my pinky pushed the cable over even when the throttle at 25%.

Now I want to know how many ways to tighten this cable up :-D

 

[Bonmotwang]

taped a video to show how loose it is.

[video=youtube_share;sfxrs8o1nFU]http://youtu.be/sfxrs8o1nFU[/video]

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

There may be a problem at the front, but there is also a problem at the carb, use the other hole in the bell crank, it's in the wrong one in the photo. Pull the plastic turnbuckle toward the front of the boat all the way to hold carb in WOT position, this might allow enough cable slack while relocating the cable end-barrel to the other hole. And the throttle lever up front must be in idle position while doing this.

Then fix the problem up front, if it still exists.

Before starting engine, make sure throttle cable isn't pulling the carb open, it will race too much. The butterfly lever on the top of MAG carb butterfly shaft should rest completely on the idle speed adjustment screw.

Get a mirror and a light, if you need them!

 

[fredm21]

Sounds like your cable is getting bad

 

[Bonmotwang]

Trying find the idle screw. Do you see it in my pictures.
Yes. I will steal the mirror from my wife's purse for now, and working like a dentist :-D

Do I need to take any screws off to move the cable end from hole A to hole B?

At the throttle handle side, I need to cut the cable short and make up something for the end?

Thanks.



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[IDoSeaDoo]

take off your air silencer and see if the throttle moves the butterfly valve lever on the throttle body. Push the throttle all the way fwd and see if you can open the throttle any wider by hand. if so, your cable isn't adjusted properly. you can lean down there and have the wife (or use your foot) to move the throttle as you're peering down there.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Just did the test: pushed the throttle to max. Then I can still move the linkage bar forward about 3/4", which moves the throttle valve to wide open position by the extra 40-45 degrees.


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[IDoSeaDoo]

You definitely need to adjust your throttle cable then. There should be an adjustment at the throttle body as well as at the helm control. I would adjust at the TB first as the helm is a PITA to deal with.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Move the cable end from hole B to hole A, I suspect this is the only problem. Check cable adjustment after doing this.

The idle speed screw is a "T" screw head (I remember I could turn it using my fingers) and it's directly on top of the MAG carb in the horizontal plane, it's directly beneath the rubber splash shield. Lift or remove the rubber shield and reach in from the top, I do this from the back seat. The screw head is pointing in the direction of the oil tank.

I'll look at your pics and see if it's there, but it's not on the bottom of the carb it's on the top.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I thought the 01 had RFI...

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Here is the idle speed "T" screw, it's on top of the MAG carb and you can reach it from above for easy adjustment while boat is in the water by reaching over the back seat. I adjust mine while the engine is off then test the result and readjust as necessary. In this photo, they removed the exhaust manifold to get a good picture.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I thought the 01 had RFI...

I think maybe 01 was the first year for DI but this one is a carbed 951, like mine. I guess there were a couple years of overlap where you could get the carbed or the DI version, maybe a California emissions requirement.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Do I need to take any screws off to move the cable end from hole A to hole B?

I need to cut the cable short and make up something for the end?

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You don't need a screwdriver or any tools to relocate the end-barrel of the cable wire, you have to rotate the barrel by manipulating the wire to align the wire and the slot of the hole and slide the barrel down, out of the hole. Hold the carb linkage in WOT position to allow cable wire slack.

The move the cable wire to the correct hole while holding the carb linkage in the WOT position.

Once you do this, the throttle controller will be able to pull the bell carnk to WOT position and release the cable wire to the idle position (in the throttle idle position looking on top of MAG carb you should see the upper throttle butterfly shaft stopper lever resting on the idle speed screw). If the throttle cable travel doesn't move fully between idle to WOT then some adjustment may be necessary.

Check WOT position:

In WOT, the carb butterflies should be full open and the cable tension should not be too great, only tight enough to fully position butterflies to WOT position. If the cable is too tight or not tight enough, loosen the cable outer sheath adjustment jam nuts (10mm nuts) and adjust as necessary. I loosen them both and place the throttle lever up front at WOT position then pull the cable outer sheath forward tight by hand so carb is fully WOT and using my fingers spin the front jam nut fully against the bracket. Then tighten the rear jam nut using a wrench. Recheck carb linkage WOT position to be sure it's fully WOT just as the front control lever reaches WOT, and it's not too tight to overtension the cable.

Do not overtension the cable tension or cable failure can occur.

Check idle position (important before restarting engine!):

Then place front throttle lever in the idle position and check to make sure the MAG butterfly shaft stopper lever is fully resting against the threaded end of the idle stop screw. The carb butterflies must travel fully between WOT and idle position and in WOT position the cable tension must not be too taught and cause damage. The MAG carb stopper lever must return and rest on the idle adjust stopper screw, normally some VERY slight slack will appear in the cable wire at the idle position, this slack allows for idle speed position screw adjustment.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Here is the idle speed "T" screw, it's on top of the MAG carb and you can reach it from above for easy adjustment while boat is in the water by reaching over the back seat. I adjust mine while the engine is off then test the result and readjust as necessary. In this photo, they removed the exhaust manifold to get a good picture.

It is nice I can adjust it when it is in the water. I went across the border today to pick up the drain plug, and the exhaust support bracket and some other parts for my jeep.

I put on the drain plug no problem. Should have ordered a few more .

The exhaust support bracket doesn't fit, it is too small. I was kind of not sure when I was looking at the picture on the web page. I get I will have a machine shop to weld my broken one back, maybe for $50 buckets.

 

[Bonmotwang]

You don't need a screwdriver or any tools to ... ..., this slack allows for idle speed position screw adjustment.

Thanks man. very detailed instructions. I will do A/B switch, and then jam nuts.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I went across the border today.

The exhaust support bracket doesn't fit, it is too small. I get I will have a machine shop to weld my broken one back.

I see they didn't catch you across the border, lucky!

I'm surprised it's the wrong bracket!?!?! If possible without problems, consider adding some metal plate while welding to make the bracket stronger. I don't recall exactly the shape of this bracket.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I see they didn't catch you across the border, lucky!

I'm surprised it's the wrong bracket!?!?! If possible without problems, consider adding some metal plate while welding to make the bracket stronger. I don't recall exactly the shape of this bracket.

I tried not to break the news. I talked the guy into why I needed a new front bumper for my Jeep:thumbsup:

I will take a picture to show the difference between the stock bracket and the eBay bracket.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Which is broken, is it bracket #62 (p/n 274000878), or #36 (p/n 274000662) in this drawing?

Make sure the rubber grommets are in good condition, I hear for best performance against vibration they should be replaced when the exhaust is disassembled.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=5&Action=O

 

[Bonmotwang]

Ah ha. That is why it doesn't fit. I ordered the wrong part. 36 is broken, but I ordered 62! My mistake.
Thanks for solving this puzzle for me


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[Bonmotwang]

Just Ordered the right one from eBay.

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