2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Oh. One more thing learned. I was installing the new venturie, but the new one doesn't fit into the gate support plastics.
It is exactly same as the old one except the bump on the top.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, that's good info. I believe the bump on top is for the venturi bailer tubes, so maybe the incorrect one came from a DI boat, I think the DI boat didn't have venturi bailing.

I need a 3rd "l"pad, to search out and avoid bites from venomous bilge-cable snakes! :O

 

[Bonmotwang]

Okay, that's good info. I believe the bump on top is for the venturi bailer tubes, so maybe the incorrect one came from a DI boat, I think the DI boat didn't have venturi bailing.

I need a 3rd "l"pad, to search out and avoid bites from venomous bilge-cable snakes! :O

Both have the tube bump. I pointed difference in my screen shot.

 

[Bonmotwang]

My motor does jump around some, but the idle speed is higher. No wonder the exhaust bracket is broken, eh? Check the engine mounts to make sure they're not torn or broken lose, you should not be able to rock the motor from it's position by pushing on it.

Here is the movie for today's show. I only filmed idling part.
[video=youtube_share;rSHORj05ub0]http://youtu.be/rSHORj05ub0[/video]

Can you tell the "jumping"?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Into Lake Ontario

It was raining today. but the temperature was high.


Always something: When I tried to winch the boat onto the trailer, the bow was too low to reach the roller.
I had to drop the trailer almost 80% into the water. My Jeep's rear bumper almost got wet.

I guess it depends on the ramp. I didn't have this problem last fall at another ramp.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sorry I can't watch the video, I think they're blocked by my browser.

It's often necessary to put the trailer in deep, especially if the ramp is steep also our boat is short. Otherwise if the trailer bunks are out of the water by enough, you can drive the boat up onto the trailer bunks using engine power but in the case of a jet you risk sucking up mud and rocks through the pump..

It's better for us to float the boat onto the trailer up to the winch stand than drive it up and on, IMO.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I think the only possibility of cable repair is to trim the outer sheath by the same amount as the inner wire, otherwise you cannot adjust for the correct position. Maybe this can be done at the plastic adjustment ferrule.

But I'm not sure if it can still reach, maybe it can.

What is the material is the sheath made of?
Steel tube with plastic outside?


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

What is the material is the sheath made of?
Steel tube with plastic outside?


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The cable sheath seems to be all thermoplastic. First you must "destroy" the cable by cutting off the crimped ferrule on the end of the wire then unthread the plastic adjustment ferrule and slide the short adjustment extension sheath off the end.

Then with the short adjustment extension removed, it seems possible to remove the plastic ferrule (avoid damaging the plastic adjuster it if possible) and cut the end of the sheath to shorten it the same amount as the wire must be shortened.

The amount to remove from both the wire and the sheath must be the same length, so be careful to measure the amount of wire removed to eliminate the broken strands. Remove as little as possible to maximize total length of the oil control cable. It's important to try to preserve the length as much as possible but eliminate the broken strands, maybe you can twist them back together some?

I had a few strands on my used cable broken lose near/from the crimped end of the wire which I twisted back and brazed using a propane torch, stainless steel brazing wire, and stainless steel brazing flux. Maybe you can repair some portion of your wire that doesn't need to flex using this approach, but these materials were already in my possession from previous projects, so there was no additional expense involved.

This is just an idea, I'm not sure it will work. Maybe you can do it successfully if there's enough overall length remaining.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

When I tried to winch the boat onto the trailer, the bow was too low to reach the roller.

Also, try to remember you should disconnect the trailer lights before backing the trailer into the water b/c if the glass bulbs are hot they will crack and break as they hit the cold water.

This doesn't apply if your lights are waterproof enough to keep the bulbs from getting wet.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Of course you may cut more from the sheath than from the wire, since your wire will have an adjustable end fastened to it, but the overall portion of the wire extending past the sheath must be the same to preserve the original adjustment feature.

Edit: changed word "cable" to "wire"

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'm looking at my original cable here and have unthreaded the plastic adjuster to expose the portion of wire in that area and I can see there is a "bright" spot worn there. It looks like it may be near the same location where your wire snapped. The wire seems to have been rubbing inside the stainless steel portion of the adjustment sleeve. In this case, if the wire had broken in this location as yours seems like it might have, then it would be necessary to remove ~6 inches of cable to repair the end.

Six inches is quite a bit of cable that must be cut off, I fear it may no longer be able to reach.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Hey, thanks man. That is so helpful.
I may have the same issue on the throttle cable at the handle end, because I bent the elbow.
I will give it a try to see if I can fix it. But I am ready to spend $150 to replace it if I failed. How big of deal to replace the cable assembly?


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Here's a new cable in the BRP packaging, it's not an aftermarket copy from SBT, it's an factory OEM replacement part new and still in the original bag, for $148 shipped (I dunno if that includes Canada?)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Sea-Doo..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item3cd886210d&vxp=mtr

I had no problems installing the SBT cable, it works and fits fine, didn't require any major modifications or adjustment difficulty, but this one is a factory part. This could be one of the last ones available, LOL.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Did i hear you saying loudly get it now? :-D


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Hey, thanks man. That is so helpful.
I may have the same issue on the throttle cable at the handle end, because I bent the elbow.
I will give it a try to see if I can fix it. But I am ready to spend $150 to replace it if I failed. How big of deal to replace the cable assembly?


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It's really worth replacing IMO, as opposed to attempting to repair it. Of course the inconvenience of not being able to use the boat is worth the price to me but that's the same reason to attempt a repair. Necessity is truly the mother of invention, eh?

There are two sections of this cable, one in the front at the controls which ends near the fuel tank fuel/water separator, and this potion is the rear section that begins near the fuel water separator extends to the carbs and oil pump. So if your front portion is damaged or worn out and needs replacement also then that will be an additional part you will need, the front section.

I can locate this part too, if you want.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Did i hear you saying loudly get it now? :-D


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Well, you could actually do get a cable to operate the carbs only, one that reaches from the controls all the way to the carbs but it on't be able to operate the TPS ignition advance b/c it won't have the hall effect switch, nor will it operate the oil injection pump, so you will have to pre-mix at 40/1 ratio and burn more oil. That's 1 gallon for every forty gallons of fuel, I estimate I consume half that using injection. You will need to add a half gallon of oil each time you put 20 gallons of fuel in the tank.

But, pre-mixing can get you out on the lake!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I think another reason very important about pre-mixing to use injection instead is many oils once mixed in gasoline should be fully consumed within a week or they can lose their ability to lubricate. This is another reason to love the oil injection.

So yeah, BOAT = Bring on another thousand!

It's always a good idea to replace worn out cables, you'll be glad you did (they must be adjusted correctly or they will break).

 

[Bonmotwang]

I am with you on getting the cable. If the BOAT formula is true, I am laughing. $1000 is not bad at all. I pay for what I learned. By the way, this forum is priceless.


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[Bonmotwang]

What browser you are using? Can you see youtube?


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I have youtube blocked for sure, no FB accounts or anything like that. You might say I fly under the radar.

 

[USAF_Pride]

One option is to try a bicycle shop. Most can make custom brake/shift cables and it might be a cheaper option.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I have youtube blocked for sure, no FB accounts or anything like that. You might say I fly under the radar.

Sounds like under the water to me lol


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[Bonmotwang]

There are two sections of this cable, one in the front at the controls which ends near the fuel tank fuel/water separator, and this potion is the rear section that begins near the fuel water separator extends to the carbs and oil pump. So if your front portion is damaged or worn out and needs replacement also then that will be an additional part you will need, the front section.

I can locate this part too, if you want.

I have been researching for some diagram to fully understand how this cable assembly work. But still not 100% sure.

From what I have learned, the cable assembly has a Y box at the carb side to pull the throttle and oil pump at the same time, like a 1 to 2; a Y box at throttle control side to mix the throttle travel and low speed steering together, like a 2 to 1.
In between the two boxes, there is only one cable traveling.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I have been researching for some diagram to fully understand how this cable assembly work. But still not 100% sure.

From what I have learned, the cable assembly has a Y box at the carb side to pull the throttle and oil pump at the same time, like a 1 to 2; a Y box at throttle control side to mix the throttle travel and low speed steering together, like a 2 to 1.
In between the two boxes, there is only one cable traveling.


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Yes that's correct, the front section has another Y device for the steering control. What's interesting is the connector from the drawing doesn't look compatible with the rear cable, but there is some sort of barrel splice connector at the front/rear connection point near the fuel/water seperator that's covered in heat shrink tubing that I had to cut away with a knife in order to disconnect the front section from the rear section. If you remove the heat shrink tubing (carefully) you will see another black plastic ferrule connector there affixed to the rear cable sheath that snaps onto the front cable adapter. It's been nearly a year since I did this but you have to pry it lose with a screwdriver to separate the front section from the rear section, place the throttle control in idle then pull on the rear cable to access the small coupling that connects the two wires. I think I also loosened the jam nut at this interface and spun the barrel connector to make enough space to disconnect the two wires. The actual wire connection is inside that barrel connector.

I'm not sure if a bicycle shop can make these, they seem custom, but maybe it's worth checking into.

The front section p/n is 204390275, I didn't replace this one, just the rear section. Maybe I should look for this and obtain a spare.

Edit: ie: the rear section has a black plastic ferrule that snaps onto the front section barrel adapter and inside that barrel adapter is the wire coupling. You have to pry this plastic coupling off the adapter. You must disconnect the cable wire from the oil pump and carburetor linkage first, before separating the rear cable from the front cable adapter.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Also some detail that might help is the part numbers seem to be labeled on the cable sections, so if you remove them you can verify the correct number, or maybe you can see the number on the sheath without removing the cable?

 

[Bonmotwang]

I have another theory here, will confirm tonight:
The last fix I did was bending the 60 degrees elbow to 90 degrees to tighten the throttle cable to have the throttle valve do full travel. But the oil pump cable was tight! So I broke the cable by the mighty force created by the throttle leverage.

Actually I believe this is what happened.
If I understood the structure I would have avoided this silly mistake.


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