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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Was going to push the oil pump cable to do some test. Just found this: the cable is almost broken. But it was good last night????
163.jpg



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It was ok when I took the picture. I guess by pulling it side way somehow damage cable.


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Bonmotwang said:
Wow $150!! Anyway to only replace the cable?


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Click to expand...

You can find a used one listed for less.

Yours looks difficult to repair the cable but a very good motorcycle shop should be able(they won't want to). If you can build this type of cable maybe you can do it but trying to find the parts and your time/aggravation I selected the new one. My oil pump cable had one broken lose wire strand at the crimp ferrule so I brazed it using stainless brazing wire and saved the cable, intend to repair the TPS (already have the IC) and keep with boat as spare.

But I think it's unusual for this cable to fail.
 
I hope I can still take it out in the weekend. Maybe I just keep an eye on the cable while driving?


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Bonmotwang said:
I hope I can still take it out in the weekend. Maybe I just keep an eye on the cable while driving?


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It looks like it's not moving properly through the travel, you can add some oil to your fuel and position the pump lever to the idle parked position. The oil in the fuel will provide your lube until you can repair the cable.
 
Actually, leave the pump lever open slightly so oil can still move through the pump, to keep it wet with oil, just slightly open. Maybe you can use a stiff wire to do this.

If the cable breaks and releases the pump lever, it will move full open by the lever spring tension and you will have full oil flow and a lot of smoke.
 
I don't think it's totally new for you, you just got a little careless or maybe it was about to break anyway, someone has been messing around with it before so it may have been damaged already.

At least this time you might be able to reconfigure the outer sheath so just by pulling the sheath you can open the pump valve for testing. No messing around trying to snag the cable using a hook, just pull the sheath instead and much less risk of cable damage.
 
I am back now.

I went out one more time after discovered the oil pump cable issue. Didn't go far, just to do more test on RPM.
Just not so sure about the motor, I didn't try max throttle, just to 4000RPM for a few seconds. The throttle was not even at half.

It was nice driving in the water.

So a few things got confirmed I think:
- I set the idle screw to have 1300PRM idle in the water and idled for a few minutes and speed seat around 1300PRM (up and down a little).
- Started the motor after I pulled it out of water to blow out the water, it starts at 3200RPM, and started to run away, so I shut it off, and did 3200RPM 3 times of 5 seconds. As you have side, low speed maybe too lean.
- It started with a lot of white smoke, after idling for a few minutes, it changed to light smoke. Does it mean the oil pump has been pumping oil into the engine?
- Cooling system is working, because even idling for a few minutes, the engine heads are still cold. (small amount of water came out of the hook above the back deck).

But I noticed the engine was jumping a little when it is idling at 1300RPM. I didn't look into the engine compartment when driving at 3000RPM, because I was the only one in the boat. I will have a company next time and take a look into the engine compartment to see if it smooth out at higher speed.

So my next priority is the oil pump cable then. I will take a closer look at the damage tonight and form the plan. I like the motorcycle ferrule idea. The damage seems to be right at the sheath end. So I may need to adjust the adjustment somewhere (I hope there is one) of the cable and shorten the sheath to have more "meat" for the ferrule.

Still couldn't understand what could cut the steel cable so quickly. I was pulling the cable side way to turn the oil pump level last night and the cable felt smooth, and I pulled about 4, 5 times. Maybe the edge of the sheath end is sharp enough to break the string.
 
Oil pump cable before and after

I attached two photos together to analyze what happened.

oil-pump-cable.jpg

Is it possible I was push the throttle too hard when I "prime" the fuel before start the engine?

It looks like if I can take off the cable and bring it out to a working space, I can connect a new short cable to the end with a ferrule or some kind of crimp tool.
But the big "IF" is: if I can adjust the sheath shorter by minimum 2".
 
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Bonmotwang said:
I attached two photos together to analyze what happened.

View attachment 25013

Is it possible I was push the throttle too hard when I "prime" the fuel before start the engine?

It looks like if I can take off the cable and bring it out to a working space, I can connect a new short cable to the end with a ferrule or some kind of crimp tool.
But the big "IF" is: if I can adjust the sheath shorter by minimum 2".
Click to expand...

Yeah, tough luck on the cable, maybe it was already damaged b/c you confirmed it was adjusted correctly. At WOT position the carb butterflies should just reach their open stops. It must be correct if you can adjust the idle speed.

I think the only possibility of cable repair is to trim the outer sheath by the same amount as the inner wire, otherwise you cannot adjust for the correct position. Maybe this can be done at the plastic adjustment ferrule.

But I'm not sure if it can still reach, maybe it can.

My motor does jump around some, but the idle speed is higher. No wonder the exhaust bracket is broken, eh? Check the engine mounts to make sure they're not torn or broken lose, you should not be able to rock the motor from it's position by pushing on it.

The low speed idle mixture screws are on top of the carbs, near the mounting flange on the stern side of the carbs. Could be they aren't set to 1.5 turns out from lightly closed finger tight. More in is leaner and more out is richer low speed mixture. It takes patience to reach them, it's a tight space. The engine should not race higher and higher out of water, mine doesn't. Any air leak can cause a lean mixture too, like if a gasket is missing, so look for lose mounting bolts or some air leaks on the vacuum side of the butterflies.

If the stop button can't stop it, this is thermal runaway of the spark plug electrode heat (dieseling glow plug) and the choke can stop it in that case. I think if you adjusted 1300 in water the trailer speed should not exceed 3000 RPM, my expectation.
 
Oh. One more thing learned. I was installing the new venturie, but the new one doesn't fit into the gate support plastics.
It is exactly same as the old one except the bump on the top. It is the bright part in the photo.
The left one is the original. The right one is the new eBay part.
175.jpg

So I put on the old Venturi, but used the new nozzle :-)
The left in the photo is the old Venturi with the new nozzle.



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Do you know how I found out the cable is broken? When the boat the idling in the water. I reached my hand down to pull the cable as I did yesterday. I felt something spiky. I thought it was a loose wire. But could find the smooth cable I touched yesterday. Then I used my third eye -- iphone to see, then I saw the ugly :-D


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