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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Ok. It took me 8 minutes from A to B, using iPad as the mirror. I had it taped :-D
The slack is still there. I will check the throttle control box now to see what is the easiest to tighten the cable


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Ok. The slack is in the short cable. If I can just bent this bracket further away from the throttle handle, it will solve the problem.
Recrimping seems to be a harder task.
88.jpg





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Now the throttle valve will start response at 1/8. Good enough for now :-D
By reving up the speed, I got it start at 3000 RPM by give it a little throttle in idle.
The picture is showing how much throttle valve opening to get 3000 RPM.
90.jpg

Does it look far off?


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Bonmotwang said:
Now the throttle valve will start response at 1/8. Good enough for now :-D
By reving up the speed, I got it start at 3000 RPM by give it a little throttle in idle.
The picture is showing how much throttle valve opening to get 3000 RPM.
90.jpg

Does it look far off?


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Click to expand...

Nice photo! It looks slightly more than mine but not really sure about that. Tighten idle screw to reach the stopper lever and see if it has enough threads to reach without bottoming the spring wrapped around the idle screw.

I remember all of the three bypass holes were isolated from vacuum by the butterfly, only the low speed outlet is exposed to vacuum when butterfly was in idle position.

On this drawing I marked the bypass holes, maybe you can see all three down in there at edge of butterfly b/c they are not on vacuum side of butterfly while in idle position? These holes serve to provide air for idle circuit fuel emulsion during idle (air goes into these holes) and once the throttle butterfly exposes these to holes vacuum then fuel comes from them.

It looks close though, so maybe it's okay.

Edit note: This drawing shows just two bypass holes but our carb has three there. On this drawing the low speed mixture adjuster is mislabeled, instead of "Low Speed Adjuster", it should say "Low Speed Mixture Adjuster" to avoid confusion with idle speed adjuster.
 

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OK, I am at work now. I will look into the carburetor to see if I can see the holes.

I also noticed that, the idling at 3000RPM is not stable, it wanted to climb up slowly, so I had to press the start/stop button to stop it. It probably hit 3500 at some point.
 
Bonmotwang said:
OK, I am at work now. I will look into the carburetor to see if I can see the holes.

I also noticed that, the idling at 3000RPM is not stable, it wanted to climb up slowly, so I had to press the start/stop button to stop it. It probably hit 3500 at some point.
Click to expand...

Yes, it's good to watch for that b/c in this situation the engine can run away very easily so you may have to use the choke to stop it. If the fuel mixture is a slightly lean, this runaway can easily happen out of water on the trailer, straight to over 7000RPM BANG! Make all final carb adjustment in water first if possible though, this is the normal operating environment.

If on trailer it always tries to run away then you can open low speed mixture screws (both of them equally) slightly, less then 1/4 turn, perhaps 1/16~1/8 turn will help to eliminate lean runaway in this case.

But runaway is never a problem in the water, so don't adjust the idle speed too high in water or it may run away on the trailer. I adjusted mine in water to almost 1500RPM and on the trailer it idles about 3200~3400 RPM I think. It has not run away in my experience.
 
OK, I guess I am ready for the water test then.

I got the drain plug from the States, so that I can float :-D

I will tighten up the pump and put on the new venturie and cup gate. If it is not windy tomorrow I will put it in the water and test just beside the dock.

I still didn't find the idle screw :lol:
I was even laughing at myself: come on, it's there, find it. I will take a very very close look tonight and find it!
 
This is the 8 minutes: it is a pain when the image is reversed and you trying to flip your mind, AND you are up side down!

[video=youtube_share;-JtcBrkzWCs]http://youtu.be/-JtcBrkzWCs[/video]
 
Bonmotwang said:
This is the 8 minutes: it is a pain when the image is reversed and you trying to flip your mind, AND you are up side down!

[video=youtube_share;-JtcBrkzWCs]http://youtu.be/-JtcBrkzWCs[/video]
Click to expand...

iPAD can't flip the image, to compensate for upside down from beneath and standing on your head?!?!?

Remember to recheck oil pump lever position and adjust cable jam nuts after making carburetor adjustments, including/especially after final idle screw adjustment. An ipad mirror is necessary for this too.

Sorry, I meant to say adjust the oil pump cable plastic sleeve, loosen jam nut against black plastic sleeve and turn sleeve as necessary to align oil pump alignment marks while throttle is in idle position.
 
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I am in the boat now, I cannot see any holes in the carbs except a big one on the other side. The throttle is minimum.


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The idle screw is pretty sensitive. I did a small adjustment now it is idling at 2000RPM. A little more it will climbing up to over 3000. So I guess I should be ready for tuning it in water now


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Don't worry about the bypass holes, you can't see them I think. I could see them only with the carbs removed by opening the butterflies but I don't have an ipad! :)

Just try to adjust the idle screw for 3000~3200 RPM at idle and check the oil pump lever alignment after to confirm it's correct(this is important to have oil). If trailer idle is 1500, the motor can't idle in water, no way possible, it's too low.
 
Ok. Bypass holes is off the list :-D
What is the oil pump lever alignment.

And can I put the throttle/shift control back now?


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Bonmotwang said:
The idle screw is pretty sensitive. I did a small adjustment now it is idling at 2000RPM. A little more it will climbing up to over 3000. So I guess I should be ready for tuning it in water now


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Click to expand...

In that case it may be too lean on the idle mixture screw, someone probably adjusted it wrong. This screw is there at the top of both carbs, turn it in all the way finger tight and count the turns . Then turn it out to spec by counting turns. It's recommended position is out from lightly seated by 1.5 turns. (there's only one idle speed screw but each carb has it's own idle mixture screw). Check both of them, and it's really TIGHT with almost no space so it takes time! Then if these are misadjusted and you correct them maybe the idle speed adjustment screw will behave.
 
Bonmotwang said:
Ok. Bypass holes is off the list :-D
What is the oil pump lever alignment.

And can I put the throttle/shift control back now?


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Click to expand...

Adjusting the oil pump cable to align the two marks, on marks on the pump body should match the mark on the pump lever arm. The pump is on the front of the 951 motor, it's crankshaft driven by a coupling.

This first drawing is 787 but opposite so it's similar to what you can see in the reverse ipad makeup mirror(rights reserved) just in reverse. Anyway, you can see the two lines are matching. Same situation for 951, in the second photo it shows pump and cable adjustment points, you turn the black plastic ferrule to adjust cable length and match the lines parallel in a straight line at idle position.

Check this oil pump cable adjustment after each time you've adjusted or repaired the throttle cables to maintain oil pump throttle stinkchronization.

"And can I put the throttle/shift control back now?"

I guess you must, before you can splash the boat for sailing! :) I think you should be able to make further throttle cable adjustment using the jam nuts if necessary.
 

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Ok got a good shot.

96.jpg


It looks like they do line up. Lucky me!

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I can't see the exact position of the line on the lever due to the grease, so wipe it off unless you can see it. I already know the upper segment of the line is located in the center of the round boss above the lever. Almost looks like the cable should be adjusted tighter ~3mm judging by the non-painted circle not being center with the round boss above.

It's pretty close though, just can't see the exact line.
 
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