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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Just Did a silly thing: I thought I could put in some oil before put on the cone. Then I found out that I didn't put in the impeller. LOL.
Good news is that is a big bottle :-)


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Fill pump oil through cone fill plug b/c first you need to do 10psi pressure leak check before installing oil to make sure the shaft and cone o-ring seal don't leak. If there's oil in there the leak check might pass with a false result.
 
Thanks. I ordered the fitting, but now it is sitting at the over side if border. Just put cone back.
Manual says 35 lbs.ft. But I just did hand tight with an Allen key. Should be ok.
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Manual says use pipe sealant for this plug. Can I use this gasket maker for this purpose?The same one I used for the cone o-ring.
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Got 135ml oil into the pump having the pump sitting like that for a while to see if any air bubbles will come out.
I found that during the filling if you kind of wiggle the pump a little you can get most of the the air bubbles out.
Does the volume sound right?
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Is 135ml about 3-4 oz? wait lets see 750ml is 25+ oz so 375 is about 12.5, 187 is about 6.3....93 is 3.15, 44 is about 1.5oz so 137ml is about 4.6oz.....probably a tad too much....
Like my math???
 
4.5 oz.
I didn't know how much should I add. I added as much as I could. I thought the more the better LoL, no?

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Manual says use pipe sealant for this plug. Can I use this gasket maker for this purpose?

Found pipe sealant at Lowes for $3.79, good for plastic and metal, so perfect. Will buy one in the morning and totally finish the pump.


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Yes plumbing pipe sealant is fine, I use 2-B permatex sealer for many of this type, it's the one I use most often (I use sealers sparingly). 3-B I recall never hardens and 1-B is the hardening type, 2-B is semi harden type.

I think the pump should be on it's side during filling (shaft horizontal) b/c the oil tends to expand as it heats and possibly there needs to be some air space to allow for oil expansion. Filling from vertical orientation there will still be some air trapped in the cone so maybe there's enough air space remaining. If there's zero air in the hub cavity, I guess your cone seal may leak outward as the oil expands and is forced out hydraulically. So if you see some oil leaking from the cone seal this oil expansion may explain why.

Keep an eye on it between uses and before launching look for a puddle of oil sitting inside the pump under the hub. I can feel this location using my bony fingers.

I also only tighten the three cone cap screws hand tight, the cone is made of plastic and cannot take too much clamping force or it may split/crack. I think just tight enough so the screws don't back out from vibration is correct.
 
Got the pipe sealant and sealed the plug. I was following the manual to put the pump back. But the manual says there should be a spacer ring in between, which I didn't see when I took it apart. Do I have to have the ring?
I am attaching the manual screen shot
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[Update]
It was a 1999 manual, which has the spacer ring part.
In the 2001 manual, the spacer ring is gone.
My boat is 2001. So I am good. :-)

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I was in the garage to check if I am ready to mount the pump back. I tried to turn the PTO by hand, but it didn't move. I thought I should be able to rotate the PTO without a tool at least a small degree back and forth?




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Yes, you should be able to turn the PTO by hand until compression is too great to overcome, the motor usually stops with both exhaust ports open, common for 2cyl 2 stroke motor, so maybe you can easily rotate maybe 20 degrees before compression is felt.

Umm, did you oil-fog your motor last fall and allow the water to blow out the exhaust while running 30 seconds more? You should see a nice cloud of smoke. Then after stopping motor remove plugs, they should be wet with oil.

Now you should remove the spark plugs and be able to spin the motor 360 degrees by hand. If you hear scraping sounds it's likely some cast iron cylinder corrosion, give her some oil in both spark plug holes. A 1/2 ounce per cyl is enough, then lay a rag over the plug holes and crank by the electric starter to blow out any excess oil.

For spline grease, my testing indicates grease worms like thin grease best so I use thickest available b/c they eat it slowly. I use marine trailer bearing grease on my PTO spline, I think about any grease will absorb water though? I know waterproof marine grease does absorb water, judging by the color. Thickest formula will remain longest I think, Extreme Pressure type always.

Also, any grease is better than no grease (just ask any grease worm!) :)

My boat uses a neoprene seal like yours, looks like you installed it correctly.

Guess where I was today?
 
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I didn't do oil-fog last fall. The only thing I did before we visit the Mickey Mouse is adding anti-freeze into the motor.
So I will take off the spark plugs and try what you have said. Am I able to see the rusty worms in there with a flash light?

Will this one winter age rusty worm cause me to take apart the engine for service?
I hope not :facepalm:

Another lesson for not "Doing the right thing". :banghead:

Weather is getting warmer and warmer now.
Did you drive into one of the Great Lakes? :-D
I hope I will be able to ask the same question next week :-)


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If you look inside the RAVE ports (after removing two screws holding RAVE and removing RAVE) you can see the side of the piston skirt, top edge of piston and opposite wall of the cylinder depending on the position of the crankshaft. I think if there's too much rust on the iron cylinder wall it will make the engine hard to turn, maybe some 2-stroke oil can help to reduce friction, leaving oil there overnight or for a several day sleepover slumber party is okay. :)

You won't know for sure until looking inside...... Another possibility that makes the motor difficult to turn by hand occurs if the electric starter gear is still engaged.
 
I like the starter gear story better:-). How to verify if it is the starter?


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I like the starter gear story better:-). How to verify if it is the starter?


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First look inside cylinder for oil worm rust and see. If the starter gear is stuck in engaged position then remove spark plugs and feed the oil worms a little oil (they're always hungry) then hit the start button briefly to "bump" starter. If the starter can turn the motor maybe the starter gear becomes unstuck. A sticky starter gear (bendix) indicates the motor should probably be removed b/c water may have entered the MAG housing causing issues with the starter bendix from moisture damage. If the bendix sticks only once then maybe it's just a fluke, this can happen but should not be often.

2-stroke crankcase oil worms become aggressive when hungry. If in doubt, feed your worms a measured squirt at a time until they acknowledge their approval by sending tribal smoke signals. In the summer season a couple squirts each into the carbs just before blowing water out of exhaust feeds them after a long day. I have an oil squirt can or shampoo bottle (rinsed, dry and clean inside) filled with 2-stroke oil to keep them happy.
 
Thanks, Just confirming I am doing it right.

First look inside cylinder for oil worm rust and see.
I just unplug the spark plug cables and unscrew the spark plugs, and look inside through the hole?

If the starter gear is stuck in engaged position then remove spark plugs
Can I see the starter gear without taking the whole thing apart?

and feed the oil worms a little oil (they're always hungry) then hit the start button briefly to "bump" starter. If the starter can turn the motor maybe the starter gear becomes unstuck.
This is the best I could expect, right? :cheers:
Just to make sure that electronically, when I hold the button, starter motor runs, and when I release, starter motor stops. No "interlock" thing there.

A sticky starter gear (bendix) indicates the motor should probably be removed b/c water may have entered the MAG housing causing issues with the starter bendix from moisture damage. If the bendix sticks only once then maybe it's just a fluke, this can happen but should not be often.
Wow, this one is scary, I hope I don't have to remove the motor out because I didn't do proper winterization :-(

2-stroke crankcase oil worms become aggressive when hungry. If in doubt, feed your worms a measured squirt at a time until they acknowledge their approval by sending tribal smoke signals. In the summer season a couple squirts each into the carbs just before blowing water out of exhaust feeds them after a long day. I have an oil squirt can or shampoo bottle (rinsed, dry and clean inside) filled with 2-stroke oil to keep them happy.
Just squirt oil into the two carb openings?
 
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Warning, I could write for you an exceedingly long dissertation you probably don't want to read through concerning the many different ins and outs of pickling a motor and boat for storage so stop tempting me! :)

Suffice it to say one of a marine engine's primary enemies is moisture and condensation, this is where I must stop myself from droning on and on.......! :)
 
See what I got here?
I should be able to get a little more torque on the PTO to fight with the rusty worm.
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Took the spark plugs out. It looks like this
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From the first picture, you can tell one of the spark plugs is "wet". This is my theory:
In the water test last fall, the battery was low because my son left the fish finder on for almost 12 hours. I had hard time to start, so I kept pulling the choke trying to start, and as soon as it started going I had to give gas to keep it running, and maybe serval other things I did wrong. So is it possible that when I was trying to start the engine, I got too much fuel into the cylinder and wet one spark plug, but then the other spark plug somehow got the engine running. Is this possible to be the reason I experienced the "on and off" thing last fall? Is it possible to get the engine running only with one spark plug?

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Now you know how happy my 3 years old is when he got a bag of gummy. Because I am as happy as he is! The PTO is moving.
I took off the spark plugs, and used the strap tool, with minimum push, it started moving.
I stopped right away when I smelt a lot of gas. So I turned about 270 degrees. I can feel that some spots are tighter than others. But I think all good.
I put about 5 drops of 2 stroke oil into each cylinder before I put back the spark plugs. Just to feel better because I pick it up at canadiantire on my way home!



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Hi, what is this liquid, gasoline hopefully? I think you're saying it's gasoline. Good to hear it still can spin!

Anyway, to clear this liquid if you can spin the motor using the electric starter spark plugs removed (with spark plug wire connectors on ground posts of rear coil e-box), that liquid inside will fly up and out of the plug holes and everywhere. If the liquid is gasoline it's toxic and the vapor is a big flammable hazard so take precaution!

Yes, this engine can still run on just one cylinder but not very well, quite rough and hard/impossible to start.

5 metric drops of oil is enough to feed one oil worm! :)
 
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