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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Trying to get the bearing and seal out now. I have the remove tool, but it is still very tight, didn't try really hard on it. Is it supposed to be very tight?
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I used my drill press to push the removal tool. Didn't work. Then I used my clamp tool, almost bend the tool still didn't move the bearing a bit. Am I missing anything here? Is the tool designed to push the two bearing and one seal out at the same time?
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In the previous close shot of the bearing, the bearing is flush with the housing. According to the manual, is there supposed to be a 0.1" space for the oil passage?


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Nice series of photos, great detail! I see the front section is made of plastic.
I think the recommended setup for removing and installing the bearings using your fancy tools is by using a hydraulic press, maybe you can make something temporary by using a bottle jack and make a frame of wood? I was also thinking it might be possible to use a threaded rod with nuts, etc. but that wouldn't work with your bearing tools.

Guess where I was today? :)
 
Egg hunting? :-D or 40mph in your sportster?
I will make up some frame with a something to push. I may borrow the cylinder from my 1.5 ton engine hoist :-D or just a screw plus nut.
Do you see the shaft need to be replaced, or can last for another season? I put the new bearing on the shaft. It has some play too. I can still wiggle it a little.



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40+ mph in the Sportster! Last year I witnessed 50mph on the lie-o-meter with 2 in the boat (for a short time, maybe a minute, I don't run my boat WOT for long periods, a minute or two only. I normally cruise between 4800~5200RPM, 5200 gets me near 30MPH, I think but will confirm if you want. That was a calm day and the fuel tank was probably less than half full, 1/3 maybe and about 7000RPM IIRC.

For the impeller shaft, there are inspection specifications given in the service manual, if you can feel a groove at the lip seal it will probably leak there. There is a minimum diameter spec too. I think you cannot really tell anything about the final fit until the bearings are pressed into the hub.

I guess a wobbly impeller shaft will allow the impeller to cut your wear ring diameter beyond optimum and cause loss/contamination of oil. I find a small amount of water in mine, a few drops perhaps, but the oil doesn't seem to escape. I try to change the pump oil twice per season but to do that I have to take the boat off the lift and that doesn't happen often.

I'm using Mercruiser stern drive gear oil, the blueish one for high performance Bravo drives.
 
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Nice. Today is nice day here too. I guess what I would do for now is just put the pump back together without replacing the bearings. The play is really small (0.1mm max).
I want to test the engine first to see if I can get starting issue fixed with fully charged battery.
If the boat "works normal", I will feel better to perfect and replace the components around it.
Does it make sense, especially the good weather is coming?
I know I am asking questions should be answered by myself, but ...


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I did some measurements and closer inspection to make sure I am making the right decision:

The shaft measures 22.26mm in the middle, 22.25/22.26mm at the needle bearing location. The minimum should be 22.24mm according to the manual.
So i think other than some dings on the surface, overall dimension is OK.
When I looked closely to the thrust bearing and thrust washer I found more dings on the bearing and washer, much worse than the needle bearings. I looked into the needle bearings with a flash light, they look pretty good on the surface. I attached a few pictures of the thrust bearing and the washer to show the wear.
I got the rebuild package anyway, so I will replace the thrust washer and bearing.
As Sportster-2001-951C-Stock has pointed out, the grooves I found on the shaft is not at the needle bearing contact area. They are where the seal contacts the draft. But I guess I will leave it for now and inspect the oil after a few hours run.

I guess my next step is to put together what I have on the bench and start testing the engine with a garden hose.

I need some suggestions here:
I want to clean up the bearing housing to make sure I got most of the metal debris out. I have a pressure washer, but I guess this is a bad idea? :facepalm:
What should I use to wash the bearing housing and the needle bearings in place?

Thanks.
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I think you can use a pressure washer to clean out the housing as long as you can then dry the bearings using compressed air. Be sure not to lose any needles from the bearing and once it's dry as possible some oil will help to avoid corrosion. Assuming you don't intend to replace the bearings at this point, a lip seal puller should work to remove the lip seal, you can probably make one yourself.

Ordinarily for this type of cleaning, I would use a parts washer with electric pump for pumping a clean/filtered solvent quite similar to diesel fuel. FYI, this parts washer actually has a replacement pump installed that was made for submerging underwater in a lily pond, LOL, it's been in the barrel beneath the sink for years.
 
I was not planning to change the seal either :-D
I will check with my friend tomorrow to see if I can get an arbor press.
He has a bigger drill press, maybe able to do it.

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To push out the bearings and seals, can I heat up the housing using a heat gun?
Just afraid that the press will deform the housing if I tried too hard.
 
Then the mighty force will be applied to the metal part.
Tried my buddy's bigger drill press today, didn't work either.
Maybe I am overdoing it right now, and risking an almost working part. Considering the housing has a deep cut and shallow groove, I should just put it back and see how it goes.
Maybe in parallel I should take off the drive shaft from the PTO and start the engine in the drive way in the next a couple of days.
Just a silly questions here: Is it possible that I started the engine and somehow I could shut it off and overcook the thing? :rofl:
 
Sea-urchin remover will clean the impeller, or sand and gravel from the river bottom moving through your nice rebuilt pump. :) Maybe Draino drain cleaner?

If you some day start your engine and it won't shut off, remember you can apply the choke to stop it. So ALWAYS make sure your choke will apply as it should, this may save your engine from meltdown one day.

Aside: Mine has not run away yet and I always restart it still hot until the exhaust note clears water each time I remove it from the water, maybe the fuel mixture is plenty rich to avoid runaway.
 
Thanks guys. Thanks for these different ways. Now I have no excuses not to get the impeller shiny again :-D


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USAF_Pride said:
It shouldn't. It's not a sealed bearing, so the biggest deal is to get it rinsed out well and re-greased. Alternatively, you can try to gently scrape/sand it off.
Click to expand...

Gently...NOT. it takes a hard wire brush on a drill or ??? to get that stuff off. A prop shop will have the right tools for it although they will charge you. Toilet bowl cleaner is similar to Muratic acid but a lot cheaper.
I've never heard of Sea-urchin removal....what/where is it?
 
Putting pump back together now. Open the lubricant I bought last year from canadiantire. It is pretty thick is it the right thing?
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