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Minnetonka4me Nick@westsidepowersports.com is a good source for good used parts like a carrier bearing assembly and a rubber dampener. The Hull snout repair kit you may have to get from SBT. Epoxy

Yes it appears gone in your picture. Your carrier assembly is also "gone". Buy the repair kit and buy new CB assembly, and DS dampener, and some marine grease for packing your new bearing and PTO splines. . The new aluminum snout glues right in. You may need to clean the walls first, but its...

The "cone" is the black rubber dampener that goes into the spline driveshaft end to quiet the shaft in the PTO flywheel, as it will float forward and backward as the hull contorts. the bearing zerk faces up and is held in place by a stiff black reinforced tube, both ends secured by stainless...

If the engine ever injested water....that may have worn the cover side. If you are experiencing a hard to start when warmed up, the clearance is excessive, and the manifold pressure gets sucked into the adjacent cylinder. Suggest you go to the "how-to" section of this forum and read my write on...

up grading compression ect is a con, as this ski is a gas sipper and will last longer if left alone. JMO. Fogging engine after trailoring, recreational gas. Rinse out and let compartment dry. A great lil ski!

Check the WR and raves, lines, bellows for pinhole leaks ect.

You can check the rotary valve clearance. If the ski ever injested water the RV Cover gets its lubrication oil washed and wears the metal away. Then the bigger clearance allows the adjacent cylinders mixture/pressure into that one, robbing power. Suggest you read up in your shop manual also read...

Ethanol eats rubber components.

Sounds like the GROUND cable is bad. Cut the end off, solder on a new one and heat shrink.

If the WATER REGULATOR is faulty, it is letting water into the exhaust at WOT, and using the horsepower to push it out, resulting in less thrust. The WR should be shutting off the water flow into the exhaust pipe. Check the WR bellows ect, by removing.

Suggest new *plugs, read the carb adjustment sticky and learn to rebuild, as yearly maintenance before season start. Do a compression check to verify the engines health. post results

RFI's will not run on Pre-Mixed fuel.

Any water in ski hull? An air leak at carbone ring will cause a cavitation = less thrust. Try loosening the hull snout end of the driveshaft boot and move it toward engine. That will put more pressure to seal the ring. If still leaks and cavitates, the ring may be warped and you can replace...

It is a drain plug. unscrew after your ride, just on trailor on the launch, as the bow will be high, just pulling the trailor out so you can access the plug(s), any water on that side of the hull will drain out. I buy and install an additional drain on the opposite side of the jet pump.

from auto parts store..........Black Stuff

How old are the *plugs? It may be time to replace them.

We have to call BS on this one! Sooooooooooooo....sorry,.....CoastieJoe Propulsion is not "reversed" back thru the grate.

An idling seadoo might suck yer socks off if yer standing in knee deep aqua. Ha Ha Its no veg-a-matic.

You should put a ball valve in the RV oil line to shut down the gravitational oil pressure on the crank seals when you store the ski more than a week. You should spray Storage oil into the engine after every use of the ski, as preventive maintenance of STEAM from the hot engine will find a way...

ONLY use pre-mix fuel to prime with. The top ring of the fuel sender is clearly marked. You may have the fuel lines improperly routed. if you've used pump gas, the ethanol may have destroyed the water separator/filter fuel element, the square o-ring, the carb diaphragm, internal carb filter...