95 GTX carbon seal randomly breaks??

[bdbwtie]

Hello everyone! This is my first post here, I joined here as I own a 1995 GTX sea doo and have learned a lot from this sight already!

The issue I came up with today. I dunked the sea doo in the water for the first time this year. Almost instantly starting making a weird howling noise and had no power. Upon inspection, the hull was getting full of water and the rubber boot surrounding the drive shaft was shredded.

Ive heard that the seal does go out, but catastrophic like? And what is the howl? I read on hear that in some years if the bearing goes it can damage the hull, does this apply to this unit? I haven't torn into it yet, but from learning on hear I feel as if I can do it. Im really worried about what else im going to find when I take the pump off. Previous maintenance was less than par on this unit. What seals are recommended to replace? And since I have it apart what else should I do?

Thanks Brad

 

[Bills86e]

The 1995 GTX came stock with a carrier bearing seal not a Carbone Ring seal.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...a=25&b=17&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---INTERNAL

The carrier type has a zerk fitting like the one on your PTO flywheel. These need Marine grease every ten times the ski is used, normally. People for get this, and water intrudes, the bearing itself rusts then it seizes up.
It also will twist the fiberglass hull snout off. SBT sells a repair kit for this, should yours be ripped away. The bearing and its boot becomes twisting. Normally only the shaft twists/turns in the greased bearing.
This is why grease is or friend. It keeps water out of our hull.

Bills86e

 

[bdbwtie]

Thanks for the reply! Its hard to tell from the pic but looking at it my guess is the fiberglass got ripped as well. Who is SBT and what kit? Does it address the hull damage?

On the link you sent, do I basically need #4,5,7,9,8,10,20 to do the job?

 

[Coastiejoe]

You will need to open it up to see what all is damaged. I am betting your bearings seized and your are looking at the end result when that happens.

I wouldn't order anything until I had it opened up and torn apart.
[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] is a member here and has MANY used parts. He may have a complete assembly for you.

 

[bdbwtie]

Yea Im afraid of the bearing seized as well. Even thought there was no weird noises after the fact, just a lot of water and no power. Is there tolerances and clearances I need to look for when tearing down. Or is it if its bad its bad and if it looks fine run it type of thing?

 

[Luv2Camp]

Yea Im afraid of the bearing seized as well. Even thought there was no weird noises after the fact, just a lot of water and no power. Is there tolerances and clearances I need to look for when tearing down. Or is it if its bad its bad and if it looks fine run it type of thing?

View attachment 31309

Looks like you are going to need the hull repair kit sbt sells. Guessing you have more issues going on with your pump as well but tear down is needed first.

 

[bdbwtie]

would this be the part?

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1995-gtx/sea-doo-thru-hull-fitting-gt-sp-gtx-gts-292000075.html

 

[Luv2Camp]

would this be the part?

http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1995-gtx/sea-doo-thru-hull-fitting-gt-sp-gtx-gts-292000075.html

Yup. That is it

 

[bdbwtie]

Well, I finally got it torn apart. It came apart fairly well. Found a couple of orings that were pinched. Seemed evident that someone had been in there before. Anyways, to me it seems as the bearing forsurely is shot. I cant tell if there is any hull damage. It doesn't appear that there is, but you guys would def know more that I do. And there is a small black cone piece as shown in the pics that has melting on it, that I cannot figure where it came from. What is everyones thoughts on what ill need to get it back together? Thanks

 

[bdbwtie]

 

[Bills86e]

The "cone" is the black rubber dampener that goes into the spline driveshaft end to quiet the shaft in the PTO flywheel, as it will float forward and backward as the hull contorts. the bearing zerk faces up and is held in place by a stiff black reinforced tube, both ends secured by stainless clamps, so when your bearing seized/froze on the shaft, it twisted the assembly & fiberglass hull snout off.

 

[bdbwtie]

so its obvious that the hull is damaged? Does it look like the hull repair item listed above would fix it?

 

[Bills86e]

Yes it appears gone in your picture. Your carrier assembly is also "gone". Buy the repair kit and buy new CB assembly, and DS dampener, and some marine grease for packing your new bearing and PTO splines. . The new aluminum snout glues right in. You may need to clean the walls first, but its not hard to do. Remember after riding to give the PTO & Carrier bearing zerk fitting a pump or two of grease
as part of after ride maintenance. FOG the running on hose engine then too, so the engine raw metal internals do not rust up!
GOOD LUCK & GOOD RIDING!

Bills86e

 

[bdbwtie]

Is there a particular glue you would use for the hull repair piece?

And also what is the best place to buy this stuff? Most places only go down to years 1996, not 1995. Can I buy this in a kit anywhere?

Also can I use different clamps? Theirs at $9 a piece adds up fast. I priced everything out at seadoo warehouse for everything minus the hull kit for $180.00.

Again thanks for all the help!

 

[Bills86e]

Minnetonka4me Nick@westsidepowersports.com is a good source for good used parts like a carrier bearing assembly and a rubber dampener. The Hull snout repair kit you may have to get from SBT. Epoxy

 

[bdbwtie]

A huge thankyou to everyone here, and nick at westside. Got it all back together and that portion of the seadoo works awesome!


The next issue is one weve been having. The exhaust tube that bolts to the exhaust manifold via 4 bolts keeps coming loose. When we bought the seadoo it had 3 different bolts in it and the gasket was pinched. Upon tearing it apart realized that the manifold itself was stripped out. We replaced the manifold and bolts and thought we were good. After riding it this weekend, one of the bolts has fallen out, two of them snapped off. What gives? Did we use the wrong bolts? Is this a common issue area? Hoping I can drill and extract the broken screws as to not have to replace the manifold again.

 

[Luv2Camp]

,

A huge thankyou to everyone here, and nick at westside. Got it all back together and that portion of the seadoo works awesome!


The next issue is one weve been having. The exhaust tube that bolts to the exhaust manifold via 4 bolts keeps coming loose. When we bought the seadoo it had 3 different bolts in it and the gasket was pinched. Upon tearing it apart realized that the manifold itself was stripped out. We replaced the manifold and bolts and thought we were good. After riding it this weekend, one of the bolts has fallen out, two of them snapped off. What gives? Did we use the wrong bolts? Is this a common issue area? Hoping I can drill and extract the broken screws as to not have to replace the manifold again.

Couple things on the exhaust. First, there are rubber bushings at the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold that if are worn out can cause issues. Second is there is a procedure for mounting the pipes. If my memory serves me correctly, you need to loosely install the lower pipe to the manifold and get the upper tuned pipe mounted first before you torque the bolts with the rubber washers on them. Red RTV silicone around the copper exhaust gasket or you will leak for sure. The most critical part is using blue Loctite on the exhaust bolts and using a torque wrench to tighten them to spec. If you do not, the expansion and contraction of the exhaust will either loosen the bolts or snap them. I learned this the hard way just once on my 1995 GTX.

After I install the exhaust bolts and torque to spec, I take a sharpie pen and put a line on the bolt, washer and onto the exhaust. This lets me see for sure if the bolts have moved at all during the first 2-4 hours of use after installation. If done right they will not move and you will not snap the bolts again

 

[bdbwtie]

I havnet looked into the rubber bushings yet. Kinda didn't think about it. When putting it back together I did set the lower in loose, then attached the upper tuned to manifold. Used a new gasket with RTV and loctited the bolts. Then tightened the lower pipe. Does anyone know what grade bolts are supposed to be in there? My thought was we put grade 8 and the didn't stretch with the heat expansion and broke?

 

[Luv2Camp]

I havnet looked into the rubber bushings yet. Kinda didn't think about it. When putting it back together I did set the lower in loose, then attached the upper tuned to manifold. Used a new gasket with RTV and loctited the bolts. Then tightened the lower pipe. Does anyone know what grade bolts are supposed to be in there? My thought was we put grade 8 and the didn't stretch with the heat expansion and broke?

I think grade 8 is correct. Maybe others will chime in. Did you torque to spec? The first time I did my exhaust I used Loctite and tightened the bolts down good and tight using my own guess as to how tight I should go. Snapped one stud two hours on the water and loosened another. The fix was torquing correctly as this gives the right amount of room for expansion so it does not snap the bolts

 

[hotrodssnova]

Same happened on my 94 speedster. Locktite and torque to spec fixed the problem.