Got a New baby. 1997 SPX

[Bonmotwang]

Just checked the manual. I thought at the bottom of the bellow it was missing a small spring ring, but no it doesn't have one. is the rubber tight enough to stop the exhaust from leaking out? There is some black exhaust leaking marks around the rave area.


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Now with clean parts in hand, easier to see how 787 Rave works.

Let me know if I got it right.

The exhaust air gets into the bellow not just through that small air passage, but also the clearance around the shaft. The oring only seals the shaft clearance when the rave wide open.

And if the surfaces around that oring is not smooth, the exhaust air could push through the bellow at high RPM, and cause black marks on the surface of the engine.

Does it make sense?


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[Waterluvr]

That small passage allows pressurized exhaust gasses to inflate your bellow to open the piston against the spring and cap tension setting, little different from the solenoid operated valve you're accustomed to on the boat.

 

[Bonmotwang]

That small passage allows pressurized exhaust gasses to inflate your bellow to open the piston against the spring and cap tension setting, little different from the solenoid operated valve you're accustomed to on the boat.

If I block the small air hole. The bellow can still move because the oring in my 787 rave is not sealing the air. With the hole blocked the blade and still go up and down almost freely.

The 951 rave is totally sealed if I block the air inlet.


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[Bonmotwang]

Opened the VTS cover. Found some rust there.
View attachment 28010
No water in the housing. I guess I should take the 4 nuts off and take the motor assembly out to take a closer look.


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I removed the 4 nuts, but still cannot remove the motor. It is loose now, but something is still holding it.

According to the manual, that's all I need to do to remove it.

Did I miss anything?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Just gunna have to keep wiggling it around until it comes out. It will come out

 

[Bonmotwang]

Just gunna have to keep wiggling it around until it comes out. It will come out

Yep. Thanks. Wiggled it off. The splines look good, with some rust with grease.
As shown in the picture, some rust built up on the motor gear box cover, just wondering if I need to open the cover to check.

Edit: Just share some good VTS links here:
http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/vts/index.html
http://stevejenkins.com/blog/2013/08/sea-doo-vts-not-working-fix-or-replace-the-vts-motor-cheap/

Edit: Check the current on both directions: 1.44A and 1.45A. Motor runs smoothly.

 

[Bonmotwang]

OK. Went all the way. Opened the cover. Totally another world, very clean. Does have a little corrosion. The worm screw on the motor shaft is very clean no corrosion at all. motor should be ok.
I guess what happened is water somehow got into the VTS black box (flipped? :-D) but didn't stay very long.

Here is the internal picture



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[Bonmotwang]

Took the gasket out to clean the metal cover. The gasket swelled as expected. My plan is to cut it shorter and put it in with gasket maker.
I will check the boot and then put them back together with more grease in them.

Edit: cut the gasket and used the famous monkey poo. Put extra grease on the plastic gear. It is as new! Will paint the outside I guess.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Disassembling the carbs now. Going smoothly so far. Questions:
1) there is no gaskets between the carbs and the flame arrester base.
2) not related to the carbs, but I saw two oil lines go into the engine. One is to the oil pump, the other one goes into the bottom of the rotary valve, for the crank case I believe. So is there another oil pump there? Why 951 does not have that crank case supply?




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[Waterluvr]

Use some 518 on the arrester housing when you put it back together with a drop of blue on the bolts, your 951 in the boat uses reeds so no need for the rotary bath / lines as compared to your 787 ski uses the rotary system with an incoming line and return to the oil tank.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Edit2: tried to take the VTS boot off. The big end is easy to come off, but the small end is too tight too slide out. Because they are all plastic (are they?) so there is no corrosion to check. And the boot looks good. So I again out some monkey poo on the big end and put the plastic clamps (white and black) back.

One "idea": why seal the VTS box? Sealed box but not 100% normally will have condensation inside.
Put a drain hole at the bottom of the black box and some vents on the top would be good.
Is it a good one :-D


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[Waterluvr]

Edit2: tried to take the VTS boot off. The big end is easy to come off, but the small end is too tight too slide out. Because they are all plastic (are they?) so there is no corrosion to check. And the boot looks good. So I again out some monkey poo on the big end and put the plastic clamps (white and black) back.

One "idea": why seal the VTS box? Sealed box but not 100% normally will have condensation inside.
Put a drain hole at the bottom of the black box and some vents on the top would be good.
Is it a good one :-D


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I put a 3/16" hole in the lowest point of my VTS housing, I figure even if the boot failed badly and flooded the housing that hole won't allow much volume into the ski at all. If the bailers can't handle that you're probably going for a swim anyway. For condensation that should work ok without a separate vent hole when the hull is in motion.

Reminds me, I want a bilge pump in my ski for good measure anyway's.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Use some 518 on the arrester housing when you put it back together with a drop of blue on the bolts, your 951 in the boat uses reeds so no need for the rotary bath / lines as compared to your 787 ski uses the rotary system with an incoming line and return to the oil tank.

So the extra oil line is from crank case and return to the oil tank?. But it is at the bottom of the oil tank.
I may need to google "rotary valves" now :-D


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[Waterluvr]

So the extra oil line is from crank case and return to the oil tank?. But it is at the bottom of the oil tank.
I may need to google "rotary valves" now :-D


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Yep, the pump line has the filter on it and the other two are supply and return for the oil sump in the case that lubes the rotary valve shaft driven off the crank.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I put a 3/16" hole in the lowest point of my VTS housing, I figure even if the boot failed badly and flooded the housing that hole won't allow much volume into the ski at all. If the bailers can't handle that you're probably going for a swim anyway. For condensation that should work ok without a separate vent hole when the hull is in motion.

Reminds me, I want a bilge pump in my ski for good measure anyway's.

I will make a drain hole on mine too.
There is no bilge switch in the ski. So it is automatic? I should remember to pour water in it to test if it works.

Also I found one open pipe from the bilge all the way to front right side if the hull. I can see a small hole from outside. What is it for?


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[Bonmotwang]

Yep, the pump line has the filter on it and the other two are supply and return for the oil sump in the case that lubes the rotary valve shaft driven off the crank.

So there is another oil pump in the crank case.

If so, for 787/717 engine it isn't a good idea to go premix then.


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[Waterluvr]

That's your vent line for the battery, didn't think your ski has a bilge pump or did I miss something pretty sure it's got the dual bailer's though. The bailer's look like this on the bottom of the ski to either side of the shaft, they suck~literally thanks to the pump design.

 

[Waterluvr]

So there is another oil pump in the crank case.

If so, for 787/717 engine it isn't a good idea to go premix then.


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Pre mix doesn't hurt anything except your wallet, there's no pump in the crankcase it's just a sump bath with a supply and return / vent line. For example if you wanted to remove the oil pump from your ski, use a block off plate and premix you can do that but the oil tank has to remain in place with the supply and vent return lines to supply lubrication for the rotary valve shaft.

 

[Bonmotwang]

That's your vent line for the battery, didn't think your ski has a bilge pump or did I miss something pretty sure it's got the dual bailer's though. The bailer's look like this on the bottom of the ski to either side of the shaft, they suck~literally thanks to the pump design.
View attachment 28068

I see. I have the two bailers at the same location. So the jet pump is also the bilge pump :-D

The battery vent line is not connected to anywhere.


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[Waterluvr]

Correct, if you study the parts for your pump assembly you will see the bailer tubes are part of that design. Just hook that vent line up to the overflow on that shiny new battery in the spring when you put it back in.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Correct, if you study the parts for your pump assembly you will see the bailer tubes are part of that design. Just hook that vent line up to the overflow on that shiny new battery in the spring when you put it back in.

Found the small nozzle on the battery. There is a labke on that battery says "pull out...".

The boat doesn't have the vent hose. Is it because the bilge is bigger?


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[Bonmotwang]

Pre mix doesn't hurt anything except your wallet, there's no pump in the crankcase it's just a sump bath with a supply and return / vent line. For example if you wanted to remove the oil pump from your ski, use a block off plate and premix you can do that but the oil tank has to remain in place with the supply and vent return lines to supply lubrication for the rotary valve shaft.

Good to know. Did a search. Found one guy went for premix and removed the oil tank. From his "test" seadoo's rotary gear can last 10 minutes without oil.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?11125-Rotary-Valve-drive-cog-Lubrication

 

[Waterluvr]

Before you winterize the ski, open the counterbalance top plug and put in about 15ML of XPS-2 oil before you run it for the last time. Do that again in the spring before you splash it and once in the middle of summer, it will eventually make it's way into the pto case but it helps to keep that lubed up.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Before you winterize the ski, open the counterbalance top plug and put in about 15ML of XPS-2 oil before you run it for the last time. Do that again in the spring before you splash it and once in the middle of summer, it will eventually make it's way into the pto case but it helps to keep that lubed up.

I just opened the counterbalance top plug to have a peek (cannot wait :-D)

It was originally sealed with the white paint and no paint chipping.
It almost took no torque to open the plug. A little surprised.
The inside of the plug is super clean. and oily. good sign.
Looked into the hole, the gear is super clean and oily, all good.
There is a small oring inside, I guess it is something easy to get lost :-D.

I put the plug back and having dinner now :-D

 

[Bonmotwang]

Before you winterize the ski, open the counterbalance top plug and put in about 15ML of XPS-2 oil before you run it for the last time. Do that again in the spring before you splash it and once in the middle of summer, it will eventually make it's way into the pto case but it helps to keep that lubed up.

Thanks for this trick.

But as usual, it put out 4 question marks

According to your description, this counterbalance chamber isn't sealed as the 951's?
These 15ml XPS-2's just get consumed?
Do I need to add gear oil as I did in my 951?
Is there a risk of "over fill"?





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