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Got a New baby. 1997 SPX

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Thanks for this trick.

But as usual, it put out 4 question marks :-)

According to your description, this counterbalance chamber isn't sealed as the 951's?
These 15ml XPS-2's just get consumed?
Do I need to add gear oil as I did in my 951?
Is there a risk of "over fill"?





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The manual will reference one fluid ounce of straight SAE 30 weight motor oil as the "add to" amount when replenishing the fluid at the recommended 50 hour interval, that's about what you know as 30ML I believe. The 787 has no seal to isolate the main bearing from the counterbalance so whatever you put in there is eventually going to make it's way into the crankcase hence my recommendation for using XPS-2 instead of 30 weight motor oil.

I add half an ounce of XPS-2 (15ML) about every 25 hours instead of straight motor oil, as for any risk of overfill there really isn't any so long as you're not adding in more than 30ML at a time. I've never lost a counterbalance gear myself but I've worked on a few bad 787's that still had the paint sealing the plug threads and had never been off so add 15 years give or take of use and an otherwise serviceable motor grenades from a munched balance gear.

Throw that tiny tach in the ski bilge and use it for an hour meter, that's just to easy to do and I think you'll find 25 hours is quite a bit of riding between service intervals for that.
 
The manual will reference one fluid ounce of straight SAE 30 weight motor oil as the "add to" amount when replenishing the fluid at the recommended 50 hour interval, that's about what you know as 30ML I believe. The 787 has no seal to isolate the main bearing from the counterbalance so whatever you put in there is eventually going to make it's way into the crankcase hence my recommendation for using XPS-2 instead of 30 weight motor oil.

I add half an ounce of XPS-2 (15ML) about every 25 hours instead of straight motor oil, as for any risk of overfill there really isn't any so long as you're not adding in more than 30ML at a time. I've never lost a counterbalance gear myself but I've worked on a few bad 787's that still had the paint sealing the plug threads and had never been off so add 15 years give or take of use and an otherwise serviceable motor grenades from a munched balance gear.

Throw that tiny tach in the ski bilge and use it for an hour meter, that's just to easy to do and I think you'll find 25 hours is quite a bit of riding between service intervals for that.

Thanks for the write up. My usage will be less than 10 hours per season.

I also reached my hand at bottom of the count balance gear box. I didn't feel there is a socket head drain plug. I guess my version of 787 does have the drain. (This ski was built in 1996).

Looks like O-I-L is the most important thing to maintain a 2 stroke, as Sportster has pointed out a few times.


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10 hours a season!? ~You just wait till I get back up there next year We'll do that in a weekend easy enough.
 
10 hours a season!? ~You just wait till I get back up there next year We'll do that in a weekend easy enough.

Great! Come over next summer and spent the weekend at Lake Ontario. Welcome to sleep over at my house.
And you will witness the first 10 hours of this ski after years of hibernating.

I will clean it up in and out during the winter.

How many feet of 3/16 black auto fuel line do I need to buy to replace all the grey ones?

Also when I take off the carbs. Is it going to affect the rotary valve timing?


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Great! Come over next summer and spent the weekend at Lake Ontario. Welcome to sleep over at my house.
And you will witness the first 10 hours of this ski after years of hibernating.

I will clean it up in and out during the winter.

How many feet of 3/16 black auto fuel line do I need to buy to replace all the grey ones?

Also when I take off the carbs. Is it going to affect the rotary valve timing?


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No, removing the carbs will just expose the two intake holes that are in the rotary valve cover. The rotary valve lives behind the cover and is indexed onto the drive gear. You'll think it's cool because you can shine a light into which ever intake side is open and see the crank / rod.

To do your entire fuel system plus the carbs you want to get twenty feet of 1/4" and five feet of 5/16" alcohol resistant line and cut exactly the same length using the old line's you wont have much left over.

There's a new to me ski in the garage I'll be bringing up next year if I get time to work on it before winter, there was no way my XP would even come close to staying with your's.
 
No, removing the carbs will just expose the two intake holes that are in the rotary valve cover. The rotary valve lives behind the cover and is indexed onto the drive gear. You'll think it's cool because you can shine a light into which ever intake side is open and see the crank / rod.

To do your entire fuel system plus the carbs you want to get twenty feet of 1/4" and five feet of 5/16" alcohol resistant line and cut exactly the same length using the old line's you wont have much left over.

There's a new to me ski in the garage I'll be bringing up next year if I get time to work on it before winter, there was no way my XP would even come close to staying with your's.

Ahha. I love it! The way I can peek into the crank and rod. HD patented photos are coming :-)

Is 1/4" or 5/16" labeled on the old tempo lines?

That must be a bigger ski for you, and you are talking about the speed, so it must be something really nice. Bring the paper work with you. LOL. I know this is too mean ...


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Much bigger :) No, you can't have it! The Tempo lines were originally labeled, just pull them off one at a time and lay it side to side and cut them as you go right off the roll.
 
Much bigger :) No, you can't have it! The Tempo lines were originally labeled, just pull them off one at a time and lay it side to side and cut them as you go right off the roll.

Ok. One by one. I have to remind myself: One by one.

Need to find a legit reason for myself to go bigger.
I have a whole winter to think about it :-D


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Carbs are off. Had to cut the fuel input line because the stock clamp was hard to reach.
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Going to do the 787 crank case inspection ...


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Crank case inspection.
By looking at the pictures, I realized that I can see the piston and cylinder too. Should have focused on them too, not just the rods.
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You are correct on the crankcase drain and fill plugs, the 1995-1996 800's do not have them.
 
You are correct on the crankcase drain and fill plugs, the 1995-1996 800's do not have them.

But mine has the fill plug, the flat screw cap. Is there a model that has fill plug but no drain?
Also a question: Why 787 uses a big one inch flat screw cap for the fill, but 951 uses a 3/8" small hex screw?
 
What is the right way to protect/lube the throttle cable, choke cable, oil pump cable? I screwed up the oil cable on my boat. Try to do it right on the ski.


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Just Google for a cable lubricator, it's a simple clamping device with an injection port to lube the cable. Motorcycle and bike shops always have them available ~Tri-Flow products are pretty hard to beat for lubing cables and chain.
 
All you need is some tubing. I know it's not your size cables, but you get the idea. And, you can get it the same day for cheap.


http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...sembly-Diagram&p=398454&viewfull=1#post398454


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I never did it, it was another posters idea, but I would just get tubing that fits the cable sheath snug. Sh!t flows down hill, just let it seep into the cable liner. No need to force it, just take your time.
 
Opened one carb. There is some rust on some screws. So water has been there. The filter did its job and caught some dirt.
Better to use a impact screw driver carefully to open the outside Philips screws, otherwise it is easy to strip on of them or two. I will use hex screws to put them together.

Here is the whole process.
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Still waiting for the rebuild kit.


Edit: in the second picture there is white powder on the bolts, and stinks a little. :-)
Tell by the paint on the screws, this carb has never been cleaned. It is amazing it made thought 17 years and still working! I am electronics guy, always got amazed by these old school reliable mechanical designs.

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So, wasn't this going to be a winter project for you? Short of maybe a little wax and detailing it looks like you're fresh out of things to do almost.
 
Looking at the exhaust water regulator, the cap doesn't fit the base very well. There is a gap there.
Is it normal ?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412738819.185016.jpg


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