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97 GTX Mini Restoration - Keeping The 2 Stroke Alive!
- Thread starter digital sol
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digital sol
Member
Thanks I will take it off and take a look at it this weekend, I have never removed the cover thus far but its probably pretty filthy inside considering the condition of the previous starter that was seized up.
That's a good idea on the carbs, I was going to go green with them but the clear coat idea sounds kind of nice as well. They are pretty clean right now but a few misc black speckles here and there. Im going to hit them with a power sprayer to get the little pieces of out the nooks. Then just spray with alcohol/water - 70/30 to dry them out.
Wish I would have thought of pulling that cover sooner lol. The exhaust any literally everything is installed minus the carbs at the moment, would have probably made removal much easier lol! Hoping I can remove without pulling the exhaust pipe
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Yeah, you need to loose those imperial screws they're NFG. Metric flat head screws have a 90 degree taper where imperial screws have an 82 degree taper. Not to mention the just plain wrong, you don't mix metric and imperial.
Here is a link to my carbs on my 96 XP resto.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ct-Clapped-out&p=303271&viewfull=1#post303271
Here is the screw your after, part # is in the lower right. Some where I have a bag of the other one you have stripped that holds the little cross shaft down.
In your image you can clearly see that they are different threads. If you want to ever check threads, lay the threads up to another screw, they should mesh and if they don't you're not right. Don't trust that lame thread checkers at home depot or lowes. Go open a pack of their nuts and thread them on. You don't know what meat head rammed the wrong screw in the cheap plastic gauge before you and not your metric screw fits in some other thread size. Sorry I know this sounds like I'm chastising you, but I'm not. Sorry.
Here is a link to my carbs on my 96 XP resto.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ct-Clapped-out&p=303271&viewfull=1#post303271
Here is the screw your after, part # is in the lower right. Some where I have a bag of the other one you have stripped that holds the little cross shaft down.
In your image you can clearly see that they are different threads. If you want to ever check threads, lay the threads up to another screw, they should mesh and if they don't you're not right. Don't trust that lame thread checkers at home depot or lowes. Go open a pack of their nuts and thread them on. You don't know what meat head rammed the wrong screw in the cheap plastic gauge before you and not your metric screw fits in some other thread size. Sorry I know this sounds like I'm chastising you, but I'm not. Sorry.
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digital sol
Member
Thanks Racer, i really appreciate the information! I didn't even notice that but good call, they are clearly different. Ill order the correct ones now. Haha good point on the thread checker deal at home depot. I just pictured that in my head and laughed outloud a little haha 
digital sol
Member
So these guys straight rock! I recommend using these guys for any carb parts you might need. I called them, gave them the part number and literally had the parts 1-2 days later.
http://www.jet-world.net/partsacc/carbsintake.asp
I got the replacement springs in, the weight is definitely different than what was installed. I went with the 65G springs
-Pop off test one 33psi on the money
-Pop off test on 2nd carb- 24psi
-took a look at carb 2 and the pivot pin is bent to hell. I am assuming the previous shop tried to bend this to alter the pop off as not only was this one bent but the color spring installed didnt match the first carb. I ordered a replacement part today. I could try and bend it back but they actually kind of bent it sideways as well, its only a couple dollar part so im replacing instead of trying to fix.
Other parts ordered
-Pump Rebuild Kit
-OEM Wear Ring
-Solas Concord 15/23 Impeller
Note: Technically this impeller isn't the recommended pitch for my ski however I trust Group K's opinion and they have reported through all of their testing on the 787 with the GTX hull this particular impeller had the best results.
-Worx Intake Grate
http://www.jet-world.net/partsacc/carbsintake.asp
I got the replacement springs in, the weight is definitely different than what was installed. I went with the 65G springs
-Pop off test one 33psi on the money
-Pop off test on 2nd carb- 24psi
-took a look at carb 2 and the pivot pin is bent to hell. I am assuming the previous shop tried to bend this to alter the pop off as not only was this one bent but the color spring installed didnt match the first carb. I ordered a replacement part today. I could try and bend it back but they actually kind of bent it sideways as well, its only a couple dollar part so im replacing instead of trying to fix.
Other parts ordered
-Pump Rebuild Kit
-OEM Wear Ring
-Solas Concord 15/23 Impeller
Note: Technically this impeller isn't the recommended pitch for my ski however I trust Group K's opinion and they have reported through all of their testing on the 787 with the GTX hull this particular impeller had the best results.
-Worx Intake Grate
digital sol
Member
Painted my carbs while waiting on more misc little bits and pieces to finish them up. This is high temp paint. I did not sand the surface I simply stripped the paint, cleaned them well & hung them with wire to paint. I did 2-3 coats per paint including primer, paint, clear. They are super glossy and I will take better pictures once fully assembled with the new SS hardware. I would have liked to have done the brackets and/or the end caps in pink but I am out of that paint & it was a local clearance. It would cost me quite a bit to order it online, especially for the small amount I would even use so they are going all green instead.
digital sol
Member
Got my carb pieces in & did some pop off testing. I got them both at 32psi +2 psi flux for the guage so aprox 34 psi on the money however I had to use two different gram springs.
One silver, one black. This is with both arms level and no spring trimming etc. I figured it would be better to avoid cutting springs or bending the pivot arm if both springs put pop off at the same psi to roll with it. Without using the black spring in one of the carbs I couldn't get pop off down. It was 36-38 consistently. Dropped in the black spring and moved it to 32psi to match the other.
I got a heap of other goodies in today so this weekend will be a work weekend for sure! More pics shortly!
One silver, one black. This is with both arms level and no spring trimming etc. I figured it would be better to avoid cutting springs or bending the pivot arm if both springs put pop off at the same psi to roll with it. Without using the black spring in one of the carbs I couldn't get pop off down. It was 36-38 consistently. Dropped in the black spring and moved it to 32psi to match the other.
I got a heap of other goodies in today so this weekend will be a work weekend for sure! More pics shortly!
digital sol
Member
Solas Prop arrived!
Bearing Installer/Removal Tool also arrived!
Bearing kit and delrin wear ring
Adaptor piece for worx intake grate:
Carbs put back together!
Replacement pin, arms, and misc internal screws.
Bearing Installer/Removal Tool also arrived!
Bearing kit and delrin wear ring
Adaptor piece for worx intake grate:
Carbs put back together!
Replacement pin, arms, and misc internal screws.
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digital sol
Member
The pins were fine but one of the arms was not only bent way too far it was twisted. I actually ordered the pins by mistake but oh well everything was only a few bucks. I had to at the minimum replace an arm and some misc internal screws that were starting to round out a bit.
I am just glad both carbs are popping now at 34. Before replacing the internals and swapping springs around one was nearly 36, where as the other was 26.
The worx intake grate was purchase used so I am currently removing sealer from the installation side to smoothen everything out but ill snap some pics once its cleaned up!
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96spxpos
Well-Known Member
Hey bro not sure if you ever figured out your hose issues or if anyone confirmed if they were correct or not. If you download the manual it's got the cooling diagram I'm there. Both of my skis are 717's so it looked a little funky to me the way the engine is cocked sideways and how the hoses are ran in yours. Did you ever confirm the setup?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
digital sol
Member
Thanks! I believe my cooling lines are all set now. I used this picture to reference:
I am however still un-sure about the "RET" line coming off the fuel baffle, its currently still un-used at this time. I finished the carbs but had the ski outside & had to tarp it up w/the weather over the weekend so didn't have a chance to throw the carbs on and take a look at whats left on the agenda.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yes, I love jet-world. back when I was flipping a lot I was ordering from them every 3-4 weeks. They are a bit slow on shipping (tend to drop ship a lot of stuff) but as long as your not in a super hurry, a great group of guys, excellent selection, and fair prices.
digital sol
Member
Ok awesome thanks! That should be the last hose I have left to connect in there.
Almost finished with her. Pump rebuild, wax & new mats then its done! The mats were ordered "Hydro Turf" and I am hoping to score a nice buffer/polisher for Christmas to give her a nice shine.
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digital sol
Member
Yea they have been awesome. Maybe i lucked out but both of my orders came within 2-3 days. They definitely order the parts and/or have them drop shipped but all the carb stuff i ordered came pretty quick. And the prices were great. Waaaay better than any other place I found. I wasn't about to pay $10 per spring set LOL!
digital sol
Member
I got the pump off but am having a hell of a time getting the impeller off 
Ive got it in a vice but unfortunately as soon as I really put some torque on it using a breaker bar the vice is slipping on its hinge mount and moving. I tried tightening it up but its just on an oldschool steel table and the pivet area on the vice just slips. Might swing down to a shop tomorrow and let them throw it on their vice & hit it with an impact. I have a impact outside but no vice out there at the moment.
Ive got it in a vice but unfortunately as soon as I really put some torque on it using a breaker bar the vice is slipping on its hinge mount and moving. I tried tightening it up but its just on an oldschool steel table and the pivet area on the vice just slips. Might swing down to a shop tomorrow and let them throw it on their vice & hit it with an impact. I have a impact outside but no vice out there at the moment.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
I got the pump off but am having a hell of a time getting the impeller off
Ive got it in a vice but unfortunately as soon as I really put some torque on it using a breaker bar the vice is slipping on its hinge mount and moving. I tried tightening it up but its just on an oldschool steel table and the pivet area on the vice just slips. Might swing down to a shop tomorrow and let them throw it on their vice & hit it with an impact. I have a impact outside but no vice out there at the moment.
yip, the swivel vice vs the stability of a static. a stubborn impeller needs that extra oomph. This was a nice reminder that I need to poke around on craigslist and finally get a big static vice for the workbench, they really do come in handy !
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digital sol
Member
Yea honestly when I was looking at vise I didn't even think the swivel would be an issue like that. I have never had to put that much torque on something in the vise though. Usually anything I can let soak in pd blaster or heat up a bit hasnt been an issue but I think I will look for a nice static vise for the garage in the future. Plus the air compressor etc is out there anyways. I bet it would pop right off with some air behind it
I am just going to swing by a shop down the street today and see if they can pop it off for me. After that I should be good to get this finished up.
PS: The oil from the cone smells terrible
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