1of500
Well-Known Member
Maybe he's talking about an hour Canadian time [emoji23]
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97 GTX Mini Restoration - Keeping The 2 Stroke Alive!
- Thread starter digital sol
- Start date
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fitty650sx
Active Member
No problem.
digital sol
Member
So got some more stuff in, ordered more stuff & am working on more stuff. The ski is actually more yellow than I thought, I will definitely have to sand her
-Ordered Worx Sponsons
-Bilge pump arrived
-Rear port arrived
So I got to drilling and get the rear port for the bilge pump ready to roll I am just waiting on the 3M Marine 5200 sealant to arrive. I was planning on using that for the bilge pump holder, the rear plug and the new intake grate installation.
I am still torn on what to do about these graphics. Spend the 2 hours taping them up or pull them, wetsand and get her back to white then get new graphics. They are not in terrible condition by any means. Anyone have any sources for graphics either OEM or custom? I would love to see what kind of pricing that stuff runs before making my decision. It would certainly be easier to just pull them all & go to town wet sanding and buffing with them removed buuuut really depends on pricing for replacements. If custom or new graphics wont cost an arm and a leg it would be kind of nice to change it up and make it different. I already had plans/am considering wrapping the hood and misc plastic trim in vinyl.
Here you can kind of make out where the stickers were
-Ordered Worx Sponsons
-Bilge pump arrived
-Rear port arrived
So I got to drilling and get the rear port for the bilge pump ready to roll I am just waiting on the 3M Marine 5200 sealant to arrive. I was planning on using that for the bilge pump holder, the rear plug and the new intake grate installation.
I am still torn on what to do about these graphics. Spend the 2 hours taping them up or pull them, wetsand and get her back to white then get new graphics. They are not in terrible condition by any means. Anyone have any sources for graphics either OEM or custom? I would love to see what kind of pricing that stuff runs before making my decision. It would certainly be easier to just pull them all & go to town wet sanding and buffing with them removed buuuut really depends on pricing for replacements. If custom or new graphics wont cost an arm and a leg it would be kind of nice to change it up and make it different. I already had plans/am considering wrapping the hood and misc plastic trim in vinyl.
Here you can kind of make out where the stickers were
digital sol
Member
Got a few more hours in tonight, this included masking off every decal I am saving. It wasn't too bad once I get some white tape to make tracing the outside of the vinyl easier. I also removed some misc trim. I ordered the heavy cut meguiars and will be getting started on that tomorrow. I am going to do a small test spot and see if sanding will be required or not. Also I decided on some vinyl wrap options for the hood and trim 
PS: I swear the bilge pump plug is centered! The damn tow hook/ski hook is just kind of torqued....we used this thing to pull tubers, wakeboarders and skiers for many years when we first got it. Hell I remember pulling two tubers at once when we were younger LOL
PS: I swear the bilge pump plug is centered! The damn tow hook/ski hook is just kind of torqued....we used this thing to pull tubers, wakeboarders and skiers for many years when we first got it. Hell I remember pulling two tubers at once when we were younger LOL
jforest
Active Member
With how good your graphics are, I would leave them on there but that's your call. I took all mine off on both my 96 and 97 gtx because they were all shot and cracked. BTW, you hood looks too good to wrap it in vinyl! I have a painted, ugly hood I'll trade you and you can wrap that :thumbsup:
digital sol
Member
Alright guys well today was a long day. I quickly found this is wayyy too yellow to just buff even with a heavy cut pad and heavy cut meguiars. So i started sanding..I ended up doing the back in 320-400 and the front I had to use down to 220! Even going down that low it took a long time to get the yellow out. I am still hitting it with 220 on the front and sides but the rear wasnt nearly as bad. My question is next up I will go over it again with 320, then 400 or skip to 600, then 800 then can I just hit with the heavy cut, medium cut, light cut and go from there?
Or do I need to really sand it entirely with each 100 up all the way through 1k or 1.5k? I have all the meguiars products so lmk what you think I should do. I would love to not have to sand for several more days if possible but I don't want to half ass it.
Also for the hull what do you recommend? Same sanding methods I used for the top?
Here are some pics from today but I will have more tomorrow if it dosnt snow
Hull pics. Note nothing has been done to the hull yet but you can see its pretty hazy.
Here you can see the yellowish inside the footwell area that I havnt sanded yet compared to the outside.
Sanding makes a mess haha!
Or do I need to really sand it entirely with each 100 up all the way through 1k or 1.5k? I have all the meguiars products so lmk what you think I should do. I would love to not have to sand for several more days if possible but I don't want to half ass it.
Also for the hull what do you recommend? Same sanding methods I used for the top?
Here are some pics from today but I will have more tomorrow if it dosnt snow
Hull pics. Note nothing has been done to the hull yet but you can see its pretty hazy.
Here you can see the yellowish inside the footwell area that I havnt sanded yet compared to the outside.
Sanding makes a mess haha!
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fitty650sx
Active Member
Go 4's. 220, 600, 1000, 1500, medium, fine, wax
fitty650sx
Active Member
Btw. Good job
digital sol
Member
Btw. Good job
Thanks! I really appreciate all the information and help along the way. I am still heavily debating removing those decals and turning everything green into a black/carbon theme. At the very least I think the hood is going to get vinyl wrapped with some misc trim etc. I would love to ditch the dark green entirely but I am too deep now to do anything to color change the hull & the seat is in really good condition to mess with so I am still torn on some ideas.
fitty650sx
Active Member
Keep them. You'll appreciate it when you're done
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Nice work. The other grits go pretty fast. Once you know you got rid of the yellow, you can work quickly through the others. I did the 220-400-600-1000-1200 to medium to fine. I all depends on how glassy you want it to look. It will be shiny. But the finest stuff gets rid of the tiny swirls. Honestly, I just wanted mine shiny white and not yellow. So I moved on pretty quickly. Its up to you for your level of "perfection" I like riding, not polishing...
digital sol
Member
Does anyone know what the high-low are suppose to be set to on these carbs? I lost my notes and don't see myself listing it in my thread 
I know there was some discussion between the sea doo manual vs what it should be actually set to in some threads. I thought I set them but after inspection I have not yet set them. I am going to set them today and get them on the ski so the inside of the ski is closer to being done. Also more wet sanding tonight but no pics until I have some sunlight to show progress!
Also thanks for the info on polishing etc. Ill finish wet sanding this week/start polishing. Plans to head down to the lake this weekend and check on my brothers boat but more progress to follow!
Settings I found are:
XP/GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
I know there was some discussion between the sea doo manual vs what it should be actually set to in some threads. I thought I set them but after inspection I have not yet set them. I am going to set them today and get them on the ski so the inside of the ski is closer to being done. Also more wet sanding tonight but no pics until I have some sunlight to show progress!
Also thanks for the info on polishing etc. Ill finish wet sanding this week/start polishing. Plans to head down to the lake this weekend and check on my brothers boat but more progress to follow!
Settings I found are:
XP/GTS/GTX - Low Speed – 1 1/4 +/- 1/4
High Speed – 0
Last edited by a moderator:
digital sol
Member
Maybe I am just getting old but I was having some trouble spotting yellow on the white and managed to sand a little too much in a small spot. Hope it turns out ok after polish/wax. It turns out poor lighting in the garage and the reflection from using green tape on the masking messed with my eyes and I got a little carried away in a spot
Kinda bummed about it but live and learn. I really do want to look at buying or building a really nice machine next summer if this one is reliable this summer so its best I learn from my mistakes now before taking on a new build next year.
Anywho, the 220 is done and she is washed. Starting 600 now and will be doing very, very light sanding to be safe.
Kinda bummed about it but live and learn. I really do want to look at buying or building a really nice machine next summer if this one is reliable this summer so its best I learn from my mistakes now before taking on a new build next year.
Anywho, the 220 is done and she is washed. Starting 600 now and will be doing very, very light sanding to be safe.
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digital sol
Member
Sanding finished, 220-600-1000-1500
Polish starts tomorrow! Fine cut to start I think
Polish starts tomorrow! Fine cut to start I think
fitty650sx
Active Member
I'm so happy for ya !
digital sol
Member
[MENTION=50799]fitty650sx[/MENTION]
Should there be a noticeable difference on the ski once I start the medium cut? I am wondering if I need to start with heavy cut or can jump straight to medium. I did the entire ski in medium and it seems pretty hazy but I also imagine none of the sanding/scratches are really going to come out until the swirl remover/wax steps but wanted to be sure before I proceed with the light compound & then move to swirl remover then wax. I could rinse her down and start over with a heavy cut just curious before I put more time into her.
Also what speed do you recommend running the polish at? The medium cut seems pretty runny & takes a while to really "haze".
Thanks!!
Should there be a noticeable difference on the ski once I start the medium cut? I am wondering if I need to start with heavy cut or can jump straight to medium. I did the entire ski in medium and it seems pretty hazy but I also imagine none of the sanding/scratches are really going to come out until the swirl remover/wax steps but wanted to be sure before I proceed with the light compound & then move to swirl remover then wax. I could rinse her down and start over with a heavy cut just curious before I put more time into her.
Also what speed do you recommend running the polish at? The medium cut seems pretty runny & takes a while to really "haze".
Thanks!!
fitty650sx
Active Member
At 1500 grit you could go right to finish.
Again. I am no where's near a professional. Foam pad with a shaggy wool bonnet on top; I keep the speed as fast as it can go without flinging compound EVERYWHERE. If the compound is thick and wet, you'll need to adjust the speed and the pressure to keep the compound 'polishing' instead of just wiping itself in circles. I never need to use more pressure than the weight of the polisher itself.
I can do a video this weekend if that would help?
Again. I am no where's near a professional. Foam pad with a shaggy wool bonnet on top; I keep the speed as fast as it can go without flinging compound EVERYWHERE. If the compound is thick and wet, you'll need to adjust the speed and the pressure to keep the compound 'polishing' instead of just wiping itself in circles. I never need to use more pressure than the weight of the polisher itself.
I can do a video this weekend if that would help?
Last edited by a moderator:
digital sol
Member
I don't think a video will be necessary but I appreciate the info! I will try a higher speed as well as currently its really just kind of spreading it around at setting of 1-2. I also think I may have been a little too quick on some of the higher grits sanding but I will lay down another coat and then wash it & hit a test spot with swirl remover to check it out before proceeding.
Thanks so much!
fitty650sx
Active Member
Just remember friction is heat. The more the compound 'grabs' the wooly the more heat is produced. This can 'burn' the white and you'll get a never-fixable yellow stain. Start fast and light on the pressure and only do a 1' square at a time. Try at the back on the flat spot under where the rear mat will be. If you boo-boo, it'll get covered up. You'll get it. Like I said, you'll only learn by doing it, and look how far you've come!
Lemme know how you do.
Lemme know how you do.
digital sol
Member
Well after a few months of putting this on the backburner I am back at it. I have about a week to finish her up and tow her down to the lake.
Finishing up painting the pump and misc trim today as well as installing the carbs/intake & then pump install tomorrow.
Pump has new bearings, new shaft, new impeller, new seals.
Note: Pretty sure the steering nozzle shown was the wrong part I bought from a member but forgot about it. I am painting the original steering nozzle today as well as the pump itself. I wanted to test the reverse bucket first before painting the pump.
I had put this on the backburner as I ended up buying a new car & have had other various projects take priority. As much as I wanted to replace the pump trim etc because the cleaner my brother used at some point corroded the plastic it just wasnt cost effective for something that someone would rarely see but having some ocd about things being perfect I decided to just paint over it and surprisingly it turned out pretty well. It feels pretty tuff so we shall see how the paint holds up. Its 100x better than before. I used krylon fusion gloss black and clear. About 6-8 coats of paint+clear. I did not sand or scuff anything, just cleaned w/alcohol and went at it.\
Before:
After:
"pretty sure this is the wrong steering nozzle, painting the other one now"
Finishing up painting the pump and misc trim today as well as installing the carbs/intake & then pump install tomorrow.
Pump has new bearings, new shaft, new impeller, new seals.
Note: Pretty sure the steering nozzle shown was the wrong part I bought from a member but forgot about it. I am painting the original steering nozzle today as well as the pump itself. I wanted to test the reverse bucket first before painting the pump.
I had put this on the backburner as I ended up buying a new car & have had other various projects take priority. As much as I wanted to replace the pump trim etc because the cleaner my brother used at some point corroded the plastic it just wasnt cost effective for something that someone would rarely see but having some ocd about things being perfect I decided to just paint over it and surprisingly it turned out pretty well. It feels pretty tuff so we shall see how the paint holds up. Its 100x better than before. I used krylon fusion gloss black and clear. About 6-8 coats of paint+clear. I did not sand or scuff anything, just cleaned w/alcohol and went at it.\
Before:
After:
"pretty sure this is the wrong steering nozzle, painting the other one now"
Last edited by a moderator:
digital sol
Member
Installing the pump today and working on some more wet sanding areas. Took 3 trys but the pump is finally sealed & not leaking. I ended up wet sanding the surface area smooth, hitting with alcohol and then coating with the recommended sealer. Waited about an hour and then pressure tested the unit @ 10 psi for 20-30 minutes.
I am going to research what kind of paint to use on the bumper trim. I imagine plastic or vinyl paint should be ok but I am sure there is a thread on here about it
Yes its not 100% smooth but it looks 100x better than the grey crap everything after that acidic wash made all the plastic look like crap.
Pressure testing cone:
Tip: Use soapy water to find leaks, it took me 3 trys to get it from leaking but its 100% now!
I am going to research what kind of paint to use on the bumper trim. I imagine plastic or vinyl paint should be ok but I am sure there is a thread on here about it
Yes its not 100% smooth but it looks 100x better than the grey crap everything after that acidic wash made all the plastic look like crap.
Pressure testing cone:
Tip: Use soapy water to find leaks, it took me 3 trys to get it from leaking but its 100% now!
digital sol
Member
Well crap another bump in the road..it dosnt seem like the new impeller's rubber cap fits over the driveshaft. Anyone else run into this issue while upgrading? Maybe i am missing something obvious but the impeller came with its own plug but it doesnt fit over the drive shaft coming out of the ski so I cant mount the pump on all the way in
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