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RESTO 96' HX Resto

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mikidymac

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So now that we are finally getting some rain here in California and a little water in the lakes I decided to finally start on my HX.

This will be a slow process but I figured it was time to finally do a resto thread.

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I picked it up last spring for $250 with the trailer and didn't even ask questions at that price. The engine was free and the ski was complete.

I loaded her onto the cart......
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Then gave her a bath
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Time to drain that blue oil and start the stripping of everything.
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The carbon seal is odd. No C-clip and it looks like they used the plastic impeller sleeve to hold the stainless hat off the carrier bearing.
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To be continued.
 
So I had some time today since it actually does rain in California
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Things started good but quickly went down hill. One carb bolt came out easy but the other three were a struggle and one finally stripped.
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I had to go to plan B. I was able to drive it out after removing the head of the bolt.
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Got the engine out and went to pull the head.....
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4 of the 12 bolts broke.
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But the cylinders still have some cross hatch but I think I am going fresh bores.

To say the crank seals were leaking would be an understatement. The entire ratio rite was from the crankcase.
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The PTO is being stubborn so I will have to get a chain wrench from work and it's shot.
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And someone took a hammer to the crank snout so the flywheel nut was a PITA to get off.
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Looks like the driveshaft took off at some point and the cage did it's job
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Rotary looks good.
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Pump looks good but as suspected they did use the impeller cone sleeve as a spacer on the carbon seal hat.
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And finally the seat and pads look great. Don't be jealous
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Looks like Minnetonka is going to make a small fortune on me. Again. LOL.
 
Your gonna use those jugs? The local machine shop charges a ton to get each broken bolt out here. If I snap one off in a part it's cheaper for me to replace the part.
 
Your gonna use those jugs? The local machine shop charges a ton to get each broken bolt out here. If I snap one off in a part it's cheaper for me to replace the part.

I haven't decided yet. As I don't have any spares I thing I am going to try to get them out myself but if I can't I will have to look for replacements. This will be a full resto but I am still trying to spend as little as possible.
 
I hate when those head bolts break off like that. I've had pretty good luck drilling them out and chasing the treads with a tap.
 
I haven't decided yet. As I don't have any spares I thing I am going to try to get them out myself but if I can't I will have to look for replacements. This will be a full resto but I am still trying to spend as little as possible.
Time to buy a milling machine. I couldn't imagine my life without mine.
 
Time to buy a milling machine. I couldn't imagine my life without mine.

Can I just borrow yours?
I have had pretty good luck with a die grinder and small carbide burr getting them super thin then an easy out. No loss if I can't but I would like to save the jugs since they are on the stock bore.
 
So a little more progress....
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A chain wrench is worth its weight in gold. 3' cheater bar over the wrench and had the wife stand on the engine and it came off so easy I thought the wrench slipped.
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Pistons are shot.
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Crank looks good but with so much oil in the cases I am going to replace it.
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Rotary drive looks great except for the crap blue oil but it's getting new OEM bearings and seals.
I always use my cheap Harbor Freight slide hammer to remove the shaft and case bearings.
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Now the last setback is the broken head studs. They were easy to drill with a drill press and new Colbalt drill bits and I installed heli coils because the aluminum threads were toast even after carefully removing the bolts. The issue is part of the sleeve that holds the o-ring was lost. I am going to call Group K in the morning to see if this will be an issue. If it is it's new used cylinders from Minnetonka.
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Put some ARPs in that bad boy and ditch the egr cooler and you'll be good to go:cheers: (6.0 jokes for those not in the know) nice work man.
 
I'll buy that crank and those jugs if you decide to replace them. I have parts in worse shape to send somewhere for an exchange if needed.

I think you did a good job on those broken bolts I guess I need a drill press.
 
The PTO is being stubborn so I will have to get a chain wrench from work and it's shot.
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It looks like that pto is toast. I have one in the same condition where the rubber bumper broke away and the pto and driveshaft pretty much had each other for lunch. Those are the hardest parts to source as well.
 
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I'll buy that crank and those jugs if you decide to replace them. I have parts in worse shape to send somewhere for an exchange if needed.

I think you did a good job on those broken bolts I guess I need a drill press.

The crank and jugs are yours Matt. I just need to see if the jugs are ok to use and as for the crank I just need a usable core to send back to seadoo.
 
Put some ARPs in that bad boy and ditch the egr cooler and you'll be good to go:cheers: (6.0 jokes for those not in the know) nice work man.

In California we can't ditch the EGR cooler but I did install the complete Bulletproof Diesel kit with their EGR cooler and external oil cooler so knocking on wood she should be good to go. I don't have a tune and she won't be eating coolant so I ham hopeful the stock crap head bolts will hold.
 
It looks like that pto is toast. I have one in the same condition where the rubber bumper broke away and the pto and driveshaft pretty much had each other for lunch. Those are the hardest parts to source as well.

Yes, that PTO and driveshaft are hard to fine but luckily I got the last ones from Minnetonka then scored a spare set on ebay that nobody bid on.
 
In California we can't ditch the EGR cooler but I did install the complete Bulletproof Diesel kit with their EGR cooler and external oil cooler so knocking on wood she should be good to go. I don't have a tune and she won't be eating coolant so I ham hopeful the stock crap head bolts will hold.
Do they hook the diesel up to the computer to check it? They dont here, and the tuner I have you turn the egr off, mine doesnt even have the cooler in there just the egr valve.
 
Do they hook the diesel up to the computer to check it? They dont here, and the tuner I have you turn the egr off, mine doesnt even have the cooler in there just the egr valve.

In some areas of Cali they actually put them on a chassis dyno but in my area they do a visual inspection of all emissions parts and rev the engine and look for "smoke" pretty stupid but I am sure it is only a matter of time before they start testing more. Honestly the Bulletproof egr cooler has a lifetime warranty and is not like the stock one inside so I have no concerns with it and I like my stuff to be as stock as possible.
 
Yeah we get a visual but most inspectors dont know what they're looking at much less down in the valley where the egr should be. Im sure my dads 87 f250 with the 6.9 idi would fail the visual smoke test and get "red stickered"
 
It is specific to the 1996-1997 HX's. It is also a good upgrade for the 95' HX but you need the 96-97' Driveshaft to go with it.
 
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