2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

Found this one online at amazon.ca

Maybe I should get this one:
http://www.amazon.ca/SeaDoo-Sea-Doo...407624086&sr=8-1&keywords=sea+doo+fogging+oil

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

You can use fogging oil made for this. We use CRC fogging oil at the shop for winterizing customer boats, not 2-stroke oil.

I have seen in the service manual some reference to the fogging connection on the air box but thought it was for DI, looked at my air box and didn't see any provision so don't know what that looks like.

I want to make a fogging system that doesn't require access to the bilge b/c sometimes I return late at night.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Revisit 951 counterbalance oil change

Got sometime tonight to check the counterbalance oil.

It has been about 8 hours since the last time I changed the counterbalance oil.

What I did last time is use a small syringe took about 20ml oil out, then added about 15ml back. The manual says it should have 40ml in the gear chamber.

Looking at the bottom half of the crankcase, the gear chamber has 2 round half, the ridge in the middle will stop the oil going into the crankshaft gear if only by gravity with the engine sitting in an angle in the bilge.
I figured oil needs be push by some pressure to go over that "ridge".

So it's been proved tonight:

I took out the screw plug, blue/green gear oil I added last time was sitting at the bottom of the opening, which is a good sign: it didn't go anywhere else.
I used the small syringe to take the oil out, the oil looked good, and with some fuel smell. all good.

I made a tool to "push" the oil: A 60ml syringe, which can push 40ml oil with one shot, 1 foot of 1/4 vinyl hose, make sure the OD of the hose is about the same size of the screw plug. Put one end of hose on the syringe and cut the other end 45 degree so that you can plug the hose into the opening tight.

With this tool, I was able to push all the 40ml into the chamber. At the end of the push, I can tell the chamber was pressurized because the piston inside the syringe got bounced back a little. I waited for about 30 seconds to let the oil find its way in. Then I unplug the hose, forgetting the chamber is still pressurized, pop, a little oil got blown out, not big deal. I watched the opening for a while and also turned over the flywheel a few times. The oil wasn't overflowing. At least 35ml oil went in.

Hand tighten the nut, used starter to run the engine about 10 seconds 2 times, no oil overflowing. Then tighten the nut with the Allan key.

So that small syringe tool is a useful tool you need to make if you want to change the counterbalance oil with the engine inside the bilge. "Adding" oil in just simply won't work.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Here's a photo of the bottom half of a 951DI case (I suppose it's quite similar):

 

[Bonmotwang]

Here's a photo of the bottom half of a 951DI case (I suppose it's quite similar):

Thanks. I can see the ridge in between, but hard to tell if it is higher than the oil opening when it is tilt. I guess it is.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I don't want to force oil into the cavity b/c I'm concerned the balance shaft or crankshaft seals may rupture. I would much prefer to reposition the boat at a steep angle with the starboard side higher.

What about removing the port side wheel from the trailer and lowering that side to the ground?

 

[Bonmotwang]

I don't want to force oil into the cavity b/c I'm concerned the balance shaft or crankshaft seals may rupture. I would much prefer to reposition the boat at a steep angle with the starboard side higher.

What about removing the port side wheel from the trailer and lowering that side to the ground?

Well, something happened today. Not sure if it is "forcing oil" related.
But first of all. I had a great day, hard drive 2 or 3 hours. a lot of 6500RPM and wave jumps. But just when we decided to go back and did a final fast run, I heard some scratching noise from the bottom of the boat, lower to 2500RPM, noise seemed to go away, up to 4000RPM scratching noise again. Open the engine cover, by listening to the noise, it seems to come from the pump. But engine was loud, so may not be accurate judgement.

So I put the speed at 2500RPM and went all the way back to the ramp. at 2500RPM, it ran as normal.

Did I blow off the seal as you were concerned? Damn, I should have waited!:facepalm:

But the most important thing is 9 kids all had a great great boating trip today, because I finally tried WTO!!!:lol:
With 2 adults and 2 kids, i saw 38mph on the meter, and today is a wavy day, with lots of sun shine.

 

[Waterluvr]

You broke your boat again didn't you? :facepalm: Hopefully it's just something simple and easy this time since you mentioned it's coming from the pump area, maybe you lost a seal and some water's gotten in around the impeller shaft and bearings, that thrust washer see's some abuse in there to.

Any leaks from the pump cone now it's been on the trailer for a few hours? Sounds like the kids are having a blast with dads wave jumping machine though.

 

[68ragtop]

Is this on a fresh engine? I wouldn't think you would really need to change the CB oil unless it had a lot of hours on it? Just curious why you changed it? This thread is really long so I am a little uneducated to everything you have done. Sorry if this has all been covered already. I recently pulled part an 85 hour 951DI that the gear CB oil was still a clear light brown/honey color.

The hump your talking about where the oil sits between the gears will actually drain to the lower gear area because the engine sits at a 45 degree angle. Its just enough for it to run to the lower area. But I would think the problem is you can't really get to the bottom of all the oil sits to pull it out because the vent hole isn't positioned above the lowest point. I think seadoo positioned it towards the PTO side so its not in direct spray from the gears. This way its not as likely to push oil into the vent line as things expand. That just my guess tho.

In a perfect world, if the engine or boat was tipped 45 degrees clockwise, you could drain out all the oil because the vent would be at the lowest point. Then rotate it back & 45 degrees the other direction & you could put your 40ML of gear oil. Personally I would probably put 35ml in because 40ml is assuming all parts are fresh & clean with no oil added yet. I'm not too sure what would happen if you overfill it?

as far as the 45 degree thing, I am guessing tipping a sportster is pretty much out of the question......

 

[Bonmotwang]

You broke your boat again didn't you? :facepalm: Hopefully it's just something simple and easy this time since you mentioned it's coming from the pump area, maybe you lost a seal and some water's gotten in around the impeller shaft and bearings, that thrust washer see's some abuse in there to.

Any leaks from the pump cone now it's been on the trailer for a few hours? Sounds like the kids are having a blast with dads wave jumping machine though.

Yes. I did :-D, as my other RC stuff. But I guess I need to be more carefully because it carries passengers.

Didn't get too much time into it yet. I was taking the pump off before the BBQ party.

I also rotated the flywheel by hand with plugs off and raves off. Everything was ok for about 5 turns, then it hit a stop. Fly wheel won't turn over. Then I tried the opposite way. It turned over for a few turns. Then tried normal way again, it hit a mechanical stop again.
That's why I was trying to isolate the problem. And cross my figure for a pump damage.

 

[Waterluvr]

I'm crossing my fingers for you my friend, hopefully that thrust washer is just getting bound up on the shaft and causing that.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Is this on a fresh engine? I wouldn't think you would really need to change the CB oil unless it had a lot of hours on it? Just curious why you changed it? This thread is really long so I am a little uneducated to everything you have done. Sorry if this has all been covered already. I recently pulled part an 85 hour 951DI that the gear CB oil was still a clear light brown/honey color.

The hump your talking about where the oil sits between the gears will actually drain to the lower gear area because the engine sits at a 45 degree angle. Its just enough for it to run to the lower area. But I would think the problem is you can't really get to the bottom of all the oil sits to pull it out because the vent hole isn't positioned above the lowest point. I think seadoo positioned it towards the PTO side so its not in direct spray from the gears. This way its not as likely to push oil into the vent line as things expand. That just my guess tho.

In a perfect world, if the engine or boat was tipped 45 degrees clockwise, you could drain out all the oil because the vent would be at the lowest point. Then rotate it back & 45 degrees the other direction & you could put your 40ML of gear oil. Personally I would probably put 35ml in because 40ml is assuming all parts are fresh & clean with no oil added yet. I'm not too sure what would happen if you overfill it?

as far as the 45 degree thing, I am guessing tipping a sportster is pretty much out of the question......

I only rebuild the top end. The CB oil I took out was black. But I was only able to put 15ml in. And I tried the syringe idea last night. Thanks for explaining the structure and orientation. I guess there is no way to over fill the CB gear chamber with the engine sitting in the boat then?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Sounds like the kids are having a blast with dads wave jumping machine though.

You know what? I had to let people know why I picked a Seadoo.
Is it because they just do?? Yeah??

 

[Bonmotwang]

You must be crossing your fingers. Pump is off, flywheel is turning.

It is still the old rule: if you don't do it right, it will get you some day.
I was being alert on this one. I was talking about this half a$$ job I did a few month ago :-D

 

[Bonmotwang]

Water in the pump. I was worth than the PO.

Mine is clear water.
His was still oil!

My water is also has burning rub smell.

But man it been giving me 38mph this afternoon!

 

[Waterluvr]

Was I right or what? :thumbsup: Man that impeller needs some love to, looks like you fed it rocks for lunch. You have the splined impeller tool?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Is this on a fresh engine? I wouldn't think you would really need to change the CB oil unless it had a lot of hours on it? Just curious why you changed it? This thread is really long so I am a little uneducated to everything you have done. Sorry if this has all been covered already. I recently pulled part an 85 hour 951DI that the gear CB oil was still a clear light brown/honey color.

The hump your talking about where the oil sits between the gears will actually drain to the lower gear area because the engine sits at a 45 degree angle. Its just enough for it to run to the lower area. But I would think the problem is you can't really get to the bottom of all the oil sits to pull it out because the vent hole isn't positioned above the lowest point. I think seadoo positioned it towards the PTO side so its not in direct spray from the gears. This way its not as likely to push oil into the vent line as things expand. That just my guess tho.

In a perfect world, if the engine or boat was tipped 45 degrees clockwise, you could drain out all the oil because the vent would be at the lowest point. Then rotate it back & 45 degrees the other direction & you could put your 40ML of gear oil. Personally I would probably put 35ml in because 40ml is assuming all parts are fresh & clean with no oil added yet. I'm not too sure what would happen if you overfill it?

as far as the 45 degree thing, I am guessing tipping a sportster is pretty much out of the question......

Hi ragtop, we're currently attempting to determine how much is enough by removing the inspection plug (Carb motor has a bolt there) judging the level is proving tricky!

Hoping since you've been in the bottom end of a couple DI's you might have some ideas of what we might expect if we should see some or if it should be at the top.

How much is enough and how much is too much, inquiring minds want to know!

When I first opened mine I couldn't see any oil so I added some but not to the top of the hole.

BONMOTWANG has been attempting to measure the volume in his.

BTW, the carb motor only has a bolt in the hole, there's no vent like the DI has.

 

[Bonmotwang]

A lot more water inside. And this

 

[Bonmotwang]

 

[Bonmotwang]

Was I right or what? :thumbsup: Man that impeller needs some love to, looks like you fed it rocks for lunch. You have the splined impeller tool?

Yes. You were right. The thrust bearing. But I could tell those metal pieces were from a kind of bearing LOL.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

So the pump needs rebuilding? At least it wasn't the engine!

 

[Bonmotwang]

So the pump needs rebuilding? At least it wasn't the engine!

Yes. My plan was run 2 trips then take it apart to do an inspection. But now maybe 12.

I cannot get the shaft out. It slid out last time.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Was I right or what? :thumbsup: Man that impeller needs some love to, looks like you fed it rocks for lunch. You have the splined impeller tool?

I have the impeller tool. I was attempting a rebuild in the spring, but didn't change the seal, bearing, the shaft. :facepalm:

 

[Bonmotwang]

See the shaft big end? the edge curled up!!! Wow. must be a lot of heat

 

[Bonmotwang]

Yes. My plan was run 2 trips then take it apart to do an inspection. But now maybe 12.

I cannot get the shaft out. It slid out last time.

Looking for a used pump on ebay and kijiji now. the shaft is stuck in the housing. Hammer it out may hurt the brass housing, right?