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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
I was looking for that too. This was my memory: On the old piston, the ring is flush with the piston surface, the new set is the same. I only felt by my fingers. I can double check tonight.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Thanks, my interest there lies in any possible offset of ring height by the aftermarket manufacturer on available bored piston sizes. With the increase in cylinder volume from the larger bore that would slightly lower compression based on that variable alone and the base gasket remaining the same and the ring heights being equal.
I'm curious to know if WSM raises the piston ring height to compensate for that, if thats even possible to do within the port tolerances they have to work around.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Just check the rings. The old one is sitting 0.20mm to 0.36mm lower than the surface.
The new ring is sitting 0 to 0.04mm lower than the surface.
I think they are all same. The old one just got worn down over the years.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Interesting finding about the exhaust while I was planing the final installation.
The water port on the tuned pipe head is partially blocked. On the manifold there are 4 ports for water, 2 big ones and 2 small ones. But on the pipe only 2 big ones are open, 2 small ones are blocked, seems like from the manufacturer, because they are very flat to the metal surface.
This is the pipe
This is the manifold
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The water port on the tuned pipe head is partially blocked. On the manifold there are 4 ports for water, 2 big ones and 2 small ones. But on the pipe only 2 big ones are open, 2 small ones are blocked, seems like from the manufacturer, because they are very flat to the metal surface.
This is the pipe
This is the manifold
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
It appears the oval passage on right side of pipe photo is completely clogged, probably an optical illusion but if it is blocked completely this can cause too much heat.
The other two smaller holes were probably unnecessary, maybe cost cutting for production casting or perhaps adding strength due to shape loss and resulting water leaks?
The o-ring style was an improvement over just a gasket to address water leak issues, I think.
The other two smaller holes were probably unnecessary, maybe cost cutting for production casting or perhaps adding strength due to shape loss and resulting water leaks?
The o-ring style was an improvement over just a gasket to address water leak issues, I think.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
No the oval passage is not blocked. The yellow stuff is just a thin layer in side the port. I will clean them if I can. The smaller ports are closed from factory. I just looked at some eBay stuff, they are same.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Question for the rods. What should I apply to the threads on both end? Shop manual says blue loctite. YouTube uses anti seize. Seadoo forum parts drawing shows blue loctite and molykote 111 used together.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Question about the motoseal on the base gasket: do I need to rush after I applied the motoseal gasket maker to the metal surfaces?
Do I need to put a thin layer of gasket maker on the cyljnder head gasket too?
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Do I need to put a thin layer of gasket maker on the cyljnder head gasket too?
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Waterluvr
New Member
Apply it to both surfaces anytime you use it so they come into contact with each other on assembly.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
So on both the metal surface and the gasket surface?
Is it going to dry out quickly. Do I have time to have it "sit" and make sure everything else is fit and sound?
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Replacing try famous grey fuel lines. It wasn't a problem in my case. Because they are in the returns?
Do I need to replace the pulse line to black too?
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Do I need to replace the pulse line to black too?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
"It wasn't a problem in my case. Because they are in the returns?"
A rotting grey fuel line was feeding trash directly into the PTO carb, no?
The green corrosion debris from rotting fuel lines returning to the fuel baffle dumped this trash into the baffle then it was sucked into the fuel pump and then never clogged the carbs b/c it's not a problem as the Tempo trash circulates through the fuel lines, right?
And the engine damage wasn't accelerated due to running too lean from clogged carbs or using the incorrect oil either.
Of course your fuel filters were clean, so it must be Tempo lines are not trouble despite they are corroded inside?
A rotting grey fuel line was feeding trash directly into the PTO carb, no?
The green corrosion debris from rotting fuel lines returning to the fuel baffle dumped this trash into the baffle then it was sucked into the fuel pump and then never clogged the carbs b/c it's not a problem as the Tempo trash circulates through the fuel lines, right?
And the engine damage wasn't accelerated due to running too lean from clogged carbs or using the incorrect oil either.
Of course your fuel filters were clean, so it must be Tempo lines are not trouble despite they are corroded inside?
Waterluvr
New Member
:lol: That's not gonna buff out.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
LoL. All Makes sense. I meant in my case the long grey line has been replaced by PPO. So the trash didn't build up that quickly. Of course this is a big deal.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Yes, and apply it right before you are ready to slide the cylinders down over the pistons as I expect it to take you five minutes or so to get that part right and you don't want to much tack on the face of the sealant from drying.
Paper thin coating is all you need for it to do it's job.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Wow. 5 minutes. I need to dry practice on the bench 10 times then :-D
Probably it is not that bad.
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Waterluvr
New Member
Use a plastic wire tie and compress the bottom 1/3 of each ring with one (or as close to it as you can get). As the top of the ring starts up into the bottom of the cylinder flange snip the strap lock and let the strap fall down and away. Be sure to get the cut straps out of there with the covers.
This helps keep the ring end gaps on the indexing pins where they belong and the rings slip right up into the bore.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
2B Monkey poop is good stuff too, especially when a gasket is involved.
I would use locktite blue on the case studs, and monkey poop to seal the head nuts/bolts exposed to the water jacket.
I would use locktite blue on the case studs, and monkey poop to seal the head nuts/bolts exposed to the water jacket.
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Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
Anyway to test the base gasket seal? Or how to tell if water is leaking into the crankcase from the water jacket?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You can pressure check the water jacket by making block off plates and attaching them to the exhaust.
Small water leaks may be hard to detect, large(er) water leaks will cause problems firing the plugs and can even wash the brown away.
I found one drop of water in my fuel pump diaphragm twice, the first time it was salty water from NY Harbor, and second time was not salty. Not sure if 2nd time was from my lake or condensation back-streaming from the exhaust during non-use but hoping it was. I retorqued the head but it was already tight, hadn't loosened.
Is the condition of the machined surfaces badly damaged?
Usually the gasket should be thick enuff to compensate for small voids and scratches but sometimes the gasket is paper thin so the surfaces must be in excellent condition and checked/machined for flatness.
less than 0.015" is my idea of a thin gasket.
Small water leaks may be hard to detect, large(er) water leaks will cause problems firing the plugs and can even wash the brown away.
I found one drop of water in my fuel pump diaphragm twice, the first time it was salty water from NY Harbor, and second time was not salty. Not sure if 2nd time was from my lake or condensation back-streaming from the exhaust during non-use but hoping it was. I retorqued the head but it was already tight, hadn't loosened.
Is the condition of the machined surfaces badly damaged?
Usually the gasket should be thick enuff to compensate for small voids and scratches but sometimes the gasket is paper thin so the surfaces must be in excellent condition and checked/machined for flatness.
less than 0.015" is my idea of a thin gasket.
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
The base gasket is 0.023".
Bonmotwang
Well-Known Member
What bothers me is that the deal cleaned the base surface with some hard tool.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
If there are high spots like burrs, you can at least remove them with a flat file?
Are the locating pins in the cylinder or in the crankcase?
You may need to use sealer in this case.
Are the locating pins in the cylinder or in the crankcase?
You may need to use sealer in this case.
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