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2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

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Bonmotwang said:
Just sucked the fuel out of the return T. Then I was expecting I can pump some fuel out of the little brass tube at the intake by moving the throttle. But I did 15 times still nothing comes out.
Click to expand...

The accelerator pump won't work until the fuel pump gets impulse on dry carbs first time around, saw your compression numbers :thumbsup: that only goes up from there.
 
with all that oil in the cylinders your compression numbers are going to be false.

LOL, stop wasting time and get that boat wet. Do like waterluvr says and fire that boat up...

I wouldn`t run the oil mix to rich, it can run lean as a result. also start off with a few gallons first...

he is correct that the whole system needs fuel in it to be in the accel pump cavity.

3 short bursts of the start button does it for ours when the boat has been sitting for a few weeks...

don`t crank the snot out of it to overheat the starter and cables if she does not fire right away.

15- 20 second rounds, let rest a few then try again...

lets go!!!
 
Waterluvr said:
The accelerator pump won't work until the fuel pump gets impulse on dry carbs first time around, saw your compression numbers :thumbsup: that only goes up from there.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, which moves me to the next step. Engine runs! idled on the trailer for 10 seconds at 1500RPM stable. What i did was to set the idle at minimum just to see if it will fire up and it did but won't stay of course. Then turned 1/2 turn in then after 10 seconds of cranking and a little throttle on the handle, it started at 1500RPM.

Thinking heading out now.
 
Pale Rider said:
with all that oil in the cylinders your compression numbers are going to be false.

LOL, stop wasting time and get that boat wet. Do like waterluvr says and fire that boat up...

I wouldn`t run the oil mix to rich, it can run lean as a result. also start off with a few gallons first...

he is correct that the whole system needs fuel in it to be in the accel pump cavity.

3 short bursts of the start button does it for ours when the boat has been sitting for a few weeks...

don`t crank the snot out of it to overheat the starter and cables if she does not fire right away.

15- 20 second rounds, let rest a few then try again...

lets go!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah. I got it. Just run it as normal after warm up and avoid WOT, and move the throttle back and forth.
What is the "warm up"?
 
Warm up is the first two minutes of low throttle no load idle operation and temperature varies widely at any specific range of rpm's afterwards depending on whether you're accelerating or dropping the throttle into that range.

That's why I wanted you to read Bill O'Neals article it directly speaks to the effect of fuel and it's relationship to heat and cooling when the engine is placed under an accelerated load and then removed.

The idea isn't to baby the engine so much as to avoid long distances of cruising at the same rpm's and constantly change the throttle setting so your regularly adding more fuel to the engine.

Go in and take a break before you splash the boat and read that article I PM'd you earlier. Mr. O'Neal said it better than I ever could.
 
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Ok. Started in water. Idled at 1500RPM for 30 seconds. And revved up to 3000 RPM a few times. Sounds different than the old engine. More low pitch I guess. :-D
I am waiting it to cool down and do a one more round of checking, then I will heading out. With my oak, hope not to use it :-D
 
You could always screw a trolling motor mount to the swim platform and stuff a Minn Kota in the floor locker. I actually thought about adding a second battery to the boat and doing that via a tiller extension for moving the boat when I want to fish with it.

Beats an oar anyday...
 
Did a small tour in the no wake area, back to the dock now. 2000RPM is very smooth. When I increase it to 3000RPM, still OK, but feel a little more vibration than the old engine. Didn't try anything higher than 3000RPM. Should I go ahead just rev it up to 5000RPM or just cruise it around between 2000 and 2800?
 
Bonmotwang said:
Just sucked the fuel out of the return T. Then I was expecting I can pump some fuel out of the little brass tube at the intake by moving the throttle. But I did 15 times still nothing comes out.
Click to expand...

If you mean the accelerator pump, it is fed by fuel in the PTO carb fuel chamber which is still dry at this point until the engine develops vacuum and pops the metering needle off it's seat.

After this happens, the accelerator pump will have a fuel supply. If you want to prime the accelerator pump then connect a tube to the inlet and into some fuel, then operate the throttle lever. I don't think this is necessary though, just use choke for starting and it should fire quickly.

Once you fire it up the first time I'd pull the RAVES out and look inside at the piston to make sure the rings aren't broken.
 
Keep varying the throttle setting and drop it far enough to add more fuel as you change it up for the first hour 5K rpm for short distances is fine.

Every time you accelerate the motor you're adding fuel back into the circuit which is cooling the pistons, the opposite is true when you drop the throttle and the motor consumes any excess fuel in the circuit and is run at a steady rpm.

Make sense?
 
7.jpg
 
Ok did another 15 minutes break in. I kept moving the rpm from 2000 to 3000 all 15 minutes. And pushed up to 5000 a couple of times and brought it back just before it flew up on the plane. Now I shut off the engine and drifting in the water :-) weather is nice here.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
So far so good, I would be looking for water in the cylinders and stuff like that before running it too much.

So it actually sounds differently now, eh?
Click to expand...

Yes. Different sound for sure all the way from 1500 to 5000.

Looked at one rave. A lot of Black juice. And one one side there is some white milky stuff. I guess it is from the break in?

Checking another one now.

Man. It is nice. I have never been out by myself. Sitting in the boat and talking to you guys and the boat is drifting by itself. I feel like a baby. :-)
 
Bonmotwang said:
Oh how to tell if water is in cylinder?
Click to expand...

You'll see something that looks like chocolate milk, and it won't go away with use and if there's enough of it the plug will be steam cleaned.

Check the torque / tension on those head bolts again I saw your reference to the milk in the rave valve post.
 
Waterluvr said:
You'll see something that looks like chocolate milk, and it won't go away with use and if there's enough of it the plug will be steam cleaned.

Check the torque / tension on those head bolts again I saw your reference to the milk in the rave valve post.
Click to expand...

Checked torques at 25 lbs ft. A couple of bolts turned 1/8 turn. All others didn't move.
But I can tell I am able to tighten it more with my 2 feet torque wrench.
 
Um yea you had a loose head bolt, good that should have the gasket sealing everything up now. You probably had a very small water leak.
 
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