6KJR
New Member
whats the best prop for the 96 seadoo xp stock?>
That depends on what you want out of the machine.
whats the best prop for the 96 seadoo xp stock?>
i just like to go fast and spin and do jumps from time to time, i am stuck between the skat swirl and the xo but leaning more towards the xo i am going to keep the machine stock other than a nice impellor and maybe grate and nozzle later down the line maybe, but would i notice a difference on one of those props and what should i get
I just purchased a 95XP800, and I'm def. rebuilding it. If your bottom end is good, get a top end kit. If the motor in there is a stock bore or .25, you should get it bored, put in some Wiseco or WSM pistons, get new needle bearings, get new Rave Valves (and maybe some new housings, but I don't think they're as crucial), rebuild the carbs with Mikuni kits and get new needles/seats, keep using the same oil (synthetic API), change plugs AT LEAST once a year and enjoy.
Hi Guys,
I brought the 96XP home from the lake and I'm going to work on cleaning her up this weekend. We are having company so no lake time.
I think I saw this in another post but I am going to ask anyway. For now I just want to buff her out and make her look good. What's a good product to do this, she's pretty dull? I'm going to leave the decals on for now. Also what's a good wax?
Once I get her cleaned up i'll put up some new pics.
Lou
I've always heard the aftermarket sponsons make em not as fun and not for 360s n stuff. I need a impellor mines pretty chipped up so I wanted to.start there and maybe get a grate later.
Hey Purple... Let us know how that intake grate works. I was going to get something used from Minnetanka... but I needed something with better pump protection. All he had was a Jet Dynamics with a single center bar. I'm sure it was great for racing... but not what I needed for a dirty Pittsburgh river.
The problem with the 3M compound, and a rotary buffer is that it will destroy the graphics. That's a very aggressive method... but has great results.
If you don't want to strip, and buff the hull... use a clay bar to pull out all the dirt, and buff it with a good cleaning wax. (like turtle wax paste)
Well, going the SBT route costs closer to $1K, what with shipping and all. If you think your crank is okay (which it probably is if the ski didn't smoke when it was running), you can pretty much do what SBT will do for you for $6-700, then use the other $3-400 to get Rave valves and Mikuni kits. Then again, I haven't really had bottom end problems before and can't speak from that side of things. How many hours (or seasons) are on that other SBT engine? What do you mean by "piston sticks after hard turn"? What's the compression on that motor?
The SBT has almost no hours. The engine seized the rear piston after a hard left hand turn, probably due to a lean condition. The boat started after a cool down, but when we brought it to shore, you could see there was water in the rear jug. No compression on that cylinder. The front is 157. It stills turns over easily, but has sat in this condition for 2 years.
I really appreciate the help.
My dad and I have managed to bring back a 587 that has sat with water damage for years. We honed the cylinders and put in a set of new pistons/rings and it ran great for another 10 years. Have you taken the head off to examine the cylinder walls?