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The X4 Thread

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i just like to go fast and spin and do jumps from time to time, i am stuck between the skat swirl and the xo but leaning more towards the xo i am going to keep the machine stock other than a nice impellor and maybe grate and nozzle later down the line maybe, but would i notice a difference on one of those props and what should i get
 
i just like to go fast and spin and do jumps from time to time, i am stuck between the skat swirl and the xo but leaning more towards the xo i am going to keep the machine stock other than a nice impellor and maybe grate and nozzle later down the line maybe, but would i notice a difference on one of those props and what should i get

i'm looking at some mild modding myself. if i where you i'd start with a grate and a new set of sponsons. i just ordered a worx maxi-loader to keep it hooked up in the chop and a set of beachhouse sponsons to turn harder. i'll let everyone know how she rides afterword
 
I've always heard the aftermarket sponsons make em not as fun and not for 360s n stuff. I need a impellor mines pretty chipped up so I wanted to.start there and maybe get a grate later.
 
So I recently pulled my 1995xp800 out my barN, and I am torn as to what to do. I am the Original owner, and it gave me years of fun. The engine finally died and was replaced with a rebuild from SBT. It never ran right after this, always grabbing a piston after hard turns or high speed runs. My interests moved elsewhere and it has sat neglected for several years.

I recently purchased a 2011 VXS, and I miss the old xp.

I want to bring it back to life, but I don't want to just randomly throw money at it.

What should I do, just drop a rebuild from SBT in, have something custom-built, etc? I want to run pump gas and reliability is crucial.

I read the thread on replacing all the grey fuel hoses, what else should be done before the new engine?

I want to rejoin the xp mafia as well!

Thanks for the help, btw I also posted on greenhulk, but it seems like this is themore active forum for the old xp.
 
:) I just purchased a 95XP800, and I'm def. rebuilding it. If your bottom end is good, get a top end kit. If the motor in there is a stock bore or .25, you should get it bored, put in some Wiseco or WSM pistons, get new needle bearings, get new Rave Valves (and maybe some new housings, but I don't think they're as crucial), rebuild the carbs with Mikuni kits and get new needles/seats, keep using the same oil (synthetic API), change plugs AT LEAST once a year and enjoy.
 
per my previous post

I've seen top end kits that include the jugs, pistons, and everything needed to rebuild the top end. You could consider that, it would be the easy way to go.
 
:) I just purchased a 95XP800, and I'm def. rebuilding it. If your bottom end is good, get a top end kit. If the motor in there is a stock bore or .25, you should get it bored, put in some Wiseco or WSM pistons, get new needle bearings, get new Rave Valves (and maybe some new housings, but I don't think they're as crucial), rebuild the carbs with Mikuni kits and get new needles/seats, keep using the same oil (synthetic API), change plugs AT LEAST once a year and enjoy.

But how much money would be saved compared to buying a rebuild from SBT. They only want like $850 for one. I was afraid the crack might be damaged from sitting with water in the jug for so long.
 
Hi Guys,

I brought the 96XP home from the lake and I'm going to work on cleaning her up this weekend. We are having company so no lake time.

I think I saw this in another post but I am going to ask anyway. For now I just want to buff her out and make her look good. What's a good product to do this, she's pretty dull? I'm going to leave the decals on for now. Also what's a good wax?

Once I get her cleaned up i'll put up some new pics.

Lou
 
Well, going the SBT route costs closer to $1K, what with shipping and all. If you think your crank is okay (which it probably is if the ski didn't smoke when it was running), you can pretty much do what SBT will do for you for $6-700, then use the other $3-400 to get Rave valves and Mikuni kits. Then again, I haven't really had bottom end problems before and can't speak from that side of things. How many hours (or seasons) are on that other SBT engine? What do you mean by "piston sticks after hard turn"? What's the compression on that motor?
 
Hi Guys,

I brought the 96XP home from the lake and I'm going to work on cleaning her up this weekend. We are having company so no lake time.

I think I saw this in another post but I am going to ask anyway. For now I just want to buff her out and make her look good. What's a good product to do this, she's pretty dull? I'm going to leave the decals on for now. Also what's a good wax?

Once I get her cleaned up i'll put up some new pics.

Lou

3m professional rubbing compound, and an eletric buffer. as for wax i just wus what ever is on sale, that has uv inhibitors
 
The problem with the 3M compound, and a rotary buffer is that it will destroy the graphics. That's a very aggressive method... but has great results.

If you don't want to strip, and buff the hull... use a clay bar to pull out all the dirt, and buff it with a good cleaning wax. (like turtle wax paste)
 
Hey Purple... Let us know how that intake grate works. I was going to get something used from Minnetanka... but I needed something with better pump protection. All he had was a Jet Dynamics with a single center bar. I'm sure it was great for racing... but not what I needed for a dirty Pittsburgh river.
 
Hey Purple... Let us know how that intake grate works. I was going to get something used from Minnetanka... but I needed something with better pump protection. All he had was a Jet Dynamics with a single center bar. I'm sure it was great for racing... but not what I needed for a dirty Pittsburgh river.

will do. it is "suposed" to be the best for chop. we'll see soon.
 
The problem with the 3M compound, and a rotary buffer is that it will destroy the graphics. That's a very aggressive method... but has great results.

If you don't want to strip, and buff the hull... use a clay bar to pull out all the dirt, and buff it with a good cleaning wax. (like turtle wax paste)

Good to know, I don't want to appear dumb, but what's a clay bar?

Thanks

Lou
 
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Its a soft polymer clay, and it will strip all the contaminates out of the finish, before you reseal the surface with wax.
 
Well, going the SBT route costs closer to $1K, what with shipping and all. If you think your crank is okay (which it probably is if the ski didn't smoke when it was running), you can pretty much do what SBT will do for you for $6-700, then use the other $3-400 to get Rave valves and Mikuni kits. Then again, I haven't really had bottom end problems before and can't speak from that side of things. How many hours (or seasons) are on that other SBT engine? What do you mean by "piston sticks after hard turn"? What's the compression on that motor?

The SBT has almost no hours. The engine seized the rear piston after a hard left hand turn, probably due to a lean condition. The boat started after a cool down, but when we brought it to shore, you could see there was water in the rear jug. No compression on that cylinder. The front is 157. It stills turns over easily, but has sat in this condition for 2 years.

I really appreciate the help.
 
The SBT has almost no hours. The engine seized the rear piston after a hard left hand turn, probably due to a lean condition. The boat started after a cool down, but when we brought it to shore, you could see there was water in the rear jug. No compression on that cylinder. The front is 157. It stills turns over easily, but has sat in this condition for 2 years.

I really appreciate the help.

if water has been sitting in that motor for 2 years, you can concider that motor gone. even if you get her starts the water has prob ruined the crank bearing and she will not stay running long. for someone like you its prob just better to get another sbt motor and drop it in.
 
My dad and I have managed to bring back a 587 that has sat with water damage for years. We honed the cylinders and put in a set of new pistons/rings and it ran great for another 10 years. Have you taken the head off to examine the cylinder walls?
 
That's what I figured. Looks like fuel lines, carb cleanup and an SBT rebuild are needed to get the xp running and out my barn.

Anything else I should do while it's all apart?

Thanks for the help.
 
My dad and I have managed to bring back a 587 that has sat with water damage for years. We honed the cylinders and put in a set of new pistons/rings and it ran great for another 10 years. Have you taken the head off to examine the cylinder walls?

yes but 587's are near indestuctable. 787's much more subceptable to water in the crank bearings. that i think, is going to be your issue.
 
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