We pulled the head and it looks like the cylinder just needs to be honed. No gouging. I am concerned about the crank and don't really know what to check.
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The X4 Thread
- Thread starter purple_people_eater
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We pulled the head and it looks like the cylinder just needs to be honed. No gouging. I am concerned about the crank and don't really know what to check.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
With the crank, there really isn't much you can check w/o splitting the case. I'd check the connecting rod to crank side clearance, and make sure the wrist pin rotates smoothly in the wrist pin and bearing, and that there is not too much play. I'd probably get new wrist pin bearings as when those fail, you get a shower of bearing needles that will destroy everything (rv, crankcase, pistons, connecting rods... total loss). I had that happen on one motor and I don't think I can salvage even the crank case; the rv face is a bit scarred from a rogue needle pin. If your engine has an access port to the balance shaft chamber, check/replace the oil in there. If not, dont worry about it.
I got my Black Tip mats yesterday, along with my cool new sunglasses. I installed them tonight, really a nice product and very easy to install. Where they replaced the stock mats, I just sheared off the top of the pop rivet with an old wood chisel (like a knife through buttah) and just hammered the rivets flush with the surface. The rest was just peel and stick.
I did clean the surfaces first with purple power, and finished wiping with rubbing alcohol.
Lou
I did clean the surfaces first with purple power, and finished wiping with rubbing alcohol.
Lou
purple_people_eater
New Member
nice man. i got my grate today. hopefully i'll be able to get it installed and tested this weekend.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Wee need some pics. Also... did you use the chisel below, or above the OEM mat?
Please doo.
thanks bro...its the complete UMI steering setup. They are becoming increasingly rare. The bars are also UMI (GSX bend) cut down a few inches on each end to get the cover on over them.
Blowsion and RSI racing both sell similar bars.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys...
If you are looking for an intake grate... I know Minnetonka has a nice Jet Dynamics for $75... but if you are looking from something with a little more protection... there is a UMI on eBay for $55.
Item Number 250831659241
I already bought one... but I thought I would post that for someone else.
There is also an old WestCoast... but they want $90 + shipping. At that point, you can get a Works.
If you are looking for an intake grate... I know Minnetonka has a nice Jet Dynamics for $75... but if you are looking from something with a little more protection... there is a UMI on eBay for $55.
Item Number 250831659241
I already bought one... but I thought I would post that for someone else.
There is also an old WestCoast... but they want $90 + shipping. At that point, you can get a Works.
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purple_people_eater
New Member
yes but its how they do it, the angle of the "scoop" and how much protection given to the inpellor/wear ring, how much drag it adds to the craft ect...
purple_people_eater
New Member
pretty much, the bigger the intake fin, the more water cought and forced into the pump.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Also... intake grates help with cornering. A deep grate can give the ski more "Traction" in a fast sweeping corner... and since it's pulling down on the ski... it help with bouncing, and they allays help with deceleration. I remember once with my superjet... after I put on a deep intake... I went over the bars when I quickly chopped the throttle the first time.
Oh... just an FYI on "Speed".....
Yes... an aggressive grate will scrub top speed on glassy smooth water. But, speed is relevant. My ski should be able to get into the mid to upper 50's without an issue. BUT... since I'm heavy, and I ride in choppy rivers... I can only get into the mid 40's. (too much bouncing, and no hookup) A deep grate will probably now get me into the low 50's in the same conditions. So... in reality, I will gain speed. (get it??)
Oh... just an FYI on "Speed".....
Yes... an aggressive grate will scrub top speed on glassy smooth water. But, speed is relevant. My ski should be able to get into the mid to upper 50's without an issue. BUT... since I'm heavy, and I ride in choppy rivers... I can only get into the mid 40's. (too much bouncing, and no hookup) A deep grate will probably now get me into the low 50's in the same conditions. So... in reality, I will gain speed. (get it??)
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IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I guess the grate on my SPX isn't very deep, it slows me down, but not quite over the bars 
Anyone have any experience with NUJET impellers? I seem to have one on my SPX. I went to their website and they claim to be better than solas/skat trak, but don't have traditional Prop Pitch measurements, saying they're bogus numbers... that so?
Anyone have any experience with NUJET impellers? I seem to have one on my SPX. I went to their website and they claim to be better than solas/skat trak, but don't have traditional Prop Pitch measurements, saying they're bogus numbers... that so?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I guess the grate on my SPX isn't very deep, it slows me down, but not quite over the bars
There is a difference between standing and sitting. A superjet is a stand up ski... and it's easy to get bucked off of, if you aren't ready for it.
Yep... they suck.
They don't have the hookup like a Skat-Trak "Swirl"... and they aren't as efficient as a Solas Concord. So... they are about the same as the OEM/stock impeller.
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KyleB
New Member
Ok Guys I need some help for my '96 XP. If you have been following some my other posts you will know that I have suddenly started having an issue getting the boat started. It would turn over just not start. I checked the plugs and replaced and regapped them, checked and cleaned RAVE valves, took fuel selector switch off and cleaned it, took fuel water separator off and cleaned it. clipped 1/2" off plug wires and re-botted the wires. Got the boat to where it would idle but when you started to apply throttle she would quit. Now, since I cleaned the fuel selector valve, when I put the DESS key on the post I don't get any beeps at all but she turns over just doesn't start at all now not even at idle. I made sure the hoses were connected right by labeling the three hoses before I removed them. My plan now is to check to verify fuel flow and then if I have fuel flow the only think I can think of is carbs problems. The carbs were rebuilt with OEM parts and pressure tested last year. The questions I have for y'all is simply this. Is my lack of beep for the DESS a bad beeper? If the MPEM quits will the engine turn over and not start? Does the DESS need to be re-programmed? From what I have been able to find this is unlikely. Do y'all concur that once I verify fuel flow the next step is carb adjustment? Thanks in advance for anyones help. My kids are driving me crazy to get this thing back on the water.
Kyle
Kyle
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Pull out a plug, and while it's still attached to the boot, ground the body of the plug (against the other plug or something), and crank it. You should see regularly repetitive spark. If no spark, could be that you have a bad coil ground, blown fuse, bad mpem, etc. Sometimes MPEM forgets to beep, mine does that and still runs. Not sure if this is foreshadowing of MPEM failure. From the sound of it, you have a fuel issue, like maybe a stuck needle in one carb or something.
purple_people_eater
New Member
no it does not mean mpem problems and they do not forget to beep. your beeping issue is your beeper, they came and go and then just quit working all together. you are on the right track make sure your have fuel getting to your carbs, then spark. if you have both you have an inturnal carb problem. most likely being a needle and seat or inturnal fillters.
in other news it will be raining here all weekend so no grate install and test this weekend, it will be monday before i get it on the ski and prob tuse/wed before i get to test her.
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mookie
New Member
Ready for the river
Just finished up the top end rebuild on my 95 xp. I did the seat myself (I was unsure about white vinyl but I'm happy with the look) and did all the work on the engine. This is the first time I've done a ski but all things considered it wasn't all that bad (thanks to reading past threads here). I ran it on a hose today and everything seems like it's good to go so tomorrow is the real test, getting out on the river and breaking it in.
I want to thank all the usual suspects because all the questions I had have already been answered in previous posts which made it all that much easier for me. Let me know what you think of the white seat (I know lots of people don't think it's a good idea but I like the look).
Just finished up the top end rebuild on my 95 xp. I did the seat myself (I was unsure about white vinyl but I'm happy with the look) and did all the work on the engine. This is the first time I've done a ski but all things considered it wasn't all that bad (thanks to reading past threads here). I ran it on a hose today and everything seems like it's good to go so tomorrow is the real test, getting out on the river and breaking it in.
I want to thank all the usual suspects because all the questions I had have already been answered in previous posts which made it all that much easier for me. Let me know what you think of the white seat (I know lots of people don't think it's a good idea but I like the look).
purple_people_eater
New Member
i agree it look great
KyleB
New Member
I don't think I would have thought of it but the white seat looks cool. It's different and distinctive. Good job mookie.
BTW the plugs have spark and I took the fuel return line off and it spurts fuel when I turn over the engine. Looks like I have a carb issue. Also, the beeps suddenly returned and I get 2 beeps when I plug the key on the DESS post. I'm going to adjust the low speed jets 1 turn out from closed and go from there. Why are those needles so dang hard to get too. Mine are on the bottom of the carbs and my big hands wont hardly get to them. I took off the spark arrester and I still have a tough time. Anyone have a trick to turn them? Thanks for all the help.
Kyle
BTW the plugs have spark and I took the fuel return line off and it spurts fuel when I turn over the engine. Looks like I have a carb issue. Also, the beeps suddenly returned and I get 2 beeps when I plug the key on the DESS post. I'm going to adjust the low speed jets 1 turn out from closed and go from there. Why are those needles so dang hard to get too. Mine are on the bottom of the carbs and my big hands wont hardly get to them. I took off the spark arrester and I still have a tough time. Anyone have a trick to turn them? Thanks for all the help.
Kyle
brandon32689
New Member
Looks good man just wash it after every outing n Sigs will stay clean. Hey got any tips on puffing the seat cover on I got 2 coming for my 96xps should I leave old on or take em off n what's a good way to start.
So I got a lot coming next week guys
2 brand new covers from commercial sewing
2 black tip seat covers
2 blacktip traction matts
2 blacktip handlebar covers
2 13 inch aluminum wheels w tires from trailer
16/24 skat swirl and new oem wear rings.
Also just got my anti rattle cones and new on off buttons. I'm ready.
So I got a lot coming next week guys
2 brand new covers from commercial sewing
2 black tip seat covers
2 blacktip traction matts
2 blacktip handlebar covers
2 13 inch aluminum wheels w tires from trailer
16/24 skat swirl and new oem wear rings.
Also just got my anti rattle cones and new on off buttons. I'm ready.
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