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The X4 Thread

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Me too! Need to get my head out of my butt. I have been up all night trying to retime a assembly line one of our fabulous engineers "adjusted" and left when it didn't work.
Sorry Lou!

It would be cool if we could all meet up sometime and put some names with faces.
 
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here are mine i got this week 95 hx and 98 spx
1- i did the tempo lines
2- rave valve clean
3-fuel filter
now i need a good skat or solas impeler anyone have one for sale?
Thanks
 

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Wow those cleaned up really nice! I love the SPX. I got these dusty 96 racers today, he had to paint his own black hulls.
 

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the spx was original owner to!!!!! 900$
can i buy that umi set up?
Not sure about shipping to Canada but I value it at $300 with no trigger and grips so PM me if you want to figure the rest out.

Great score on that SPX. That is a toy that will never go out of style!
 
Nice score Matt! I need a UMI stem for my boat, but i've got another project in the works right now for my game room.

mrduramax you stole that spx for $900. Theres one just like it on my local cl, but not as clean for $1700
 
Hellz yeah Matt you are becoming an expert X-4 aftermarket Hoarder!!!

Yep we had...

A Jetmate
A Wetbike
A Explorer
A BOB
A REV
2 Octanes
Pro 785
RXX
and a ton of standups and blasters too.
 
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Are Blasters not my natural enemy? I hear they get to lean into their turns. Thanks for the props Nick. Of coarse the score came with extra hoses that I just bought from you, but thanks for being there and being fair always. My new Limited will proudly sport your sticker.
 
I have no enemies when it comes to jetskis...everyone has their preference. The Blasters you do lean and Ive ridden prob one of the best tuned ones out there...they are fun but they arent a X-4.

One of the best blaster pictures out there is one of my buddies from a double up last week...pretty much the best local money shot picture if you ask me.



Then one shot of me...kind of a close call I totally didnt think I was going to fly that far.

 
Figured I'd post mine up. Just joined the XP family. Found this XP on CL for $800 sans trailer. Going to need quite a bit of cleaning up but it's mechanically sound. VTS didn't work when I bought it, but bought a new motor/module and installed it yesterday. Works great now. It's pretty beat up and over all not been very well taken care of. Pretty much ridden hard and put away wet. Stored in water quite a bit as well it looks.

Looks to have some stock lines........some not. So plan on replacing those, and at a minimum going through the carbs. Most likely will rebuild them. I detail cars on the side so I have all the equipment to buff this thing out to a perfect shine. Tested some sections last night and it'll clean up nice. Plan on ripping off the decals and going with new ones. Want it to look close to stock. Has an aftermarket K&N high flow filter kit on it. Not sure if it's jetted for it or not. Going to take it out this weekend and see how she does. Then she'll get taken apart for the semi resto project on her. If it warms up anymore I'll just take out my wave venture.

Anywho on to the pics.

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Faded trim
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After heat gun treatment
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you can see how faded the gel coat is here, and the stupid stickers.
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More stupid stickers. This team solas sticker would not come off. Looks like it's somehow baked itself into the gel coat. Plan to just cover it up with a bombardier or sea doo decal.
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Disarray the poor boat is in.
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Testing to see how much buffing work it's gonna take.....and it's not very much. Once I get the graphics off will prolly take me less than an hour or so of actual buffing. Will be taking the pump off to get in there as well as the sponsons.

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looks great so far nice job.... how is the engine? orig? pipe welded up yet?

Scott

Engine runs great. Compression is 145 in both holes.....haven't verified myself yet. Pipe welded? Do tell. It's mostly cosmetic and routine replacement of stock old parts(hoses, filters, etc)
 
the purple exhaust pipes rot out on the circles, leak water somtimes very very bad and the ski's take on water believe me i know from experience... i had an aluminum welder weld over the orig circles...

Scott
 
the purple exhaust pipes rot out on the circles, leak water somtimes very very bad and the ski's take on water believe me i know from experience... i had an aluminum welder weld over the orig circles...

Scott


Hmmmmm I'll have to check into it over winter when she's torn apart.

Took her out today
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Couldn't get her up to speed, kept bogging down. Seems to be a fuel issue........think someone had that problem recently. Appeared to be a fuel issue and ended up being a spark issue. Either way after trying to get it to full power it finally cleared up and off she went. Rode around hard for a bit with no issue. Slowing down to idle then pinning it again. Perfectly fine. Went back to the dock to grab my wife and back to the issues again. Drop her back off then I head back out......bogged at first then went fine for another 10-15 mins then I finally figured I better call it a day while I was ahead.


Had about a half tank in her......don't know how old the gas was. I do know the guy I bought the ski from had been trying to sell it all summer. So there's a chance the gas may have been old. Went and filled her up fill with gas. Get home and fire her up.....she's bogging on the trailer, so that leads me to think fuel issue. So power down, give her a wash, then fire it up again to see if it's still bogging. Bogged the first throttle pull then cleared right up.


Noticed it still has the grey lines, so at a minimum will change those this week and take her out again this weekend. Will most likely rebuild the carbs in the off season as well as switch to premix. Looked into the pump and the impeller looks ok. A knick here or there and it has a new wear ring. Doesn't quite look like it's installed right. Has this weird lip on the end of it.......could be I'm just used to yammi's and don't know what I'm looking at in there.
 
could very well be the voltage regulator... mine did the same thing, check what voltage the stator is putting otu while its running if your getting 14.xx or more thats the problem esp when revving up. If you unplug the red wire off the voltage regulator in the MPEM and it runs fine then thats the problem, but rememebr while the red wire is apart the stator isn't charging the battery. Try that its a free thing to try.... yes gray lines MUST MUST go!!! Many times the voltage regulators go.... for many of us, many have gone from people "jumpstarting" or boosting the battery as seadoo calls it. They run around 75 bucks. I have a spare in my toolbox since it seems they go bad more often then they should. Try to get oem seadoo regulator.

Scott

ps what did you do to the gelcoat wetsand or just wax? if so what did you use... Did you use the heat gun on the plastic hood? THe ski looks great...
 
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could very well be the voltage regulator... mine did the same thing, check what voltage the stator is putting otu while its running if your getting 14.xx or more thats the problem esp when revving up. If you unplug the red wire off the voltage regulator in the MPEM and it runs fine then thats the problem, but rememebr while the red wire is apart the stator isn't charging the battery. Try that its a free thing to try.... yes gray lines MUST MUST go!!! Many times the voltage regulators go.... for many of us, many have gone from people "jumpstarting" or boosting the battery as seadoo calls it. They run around 75 bucks. I have a spare in my toolbox since it seems they go bad more often then they should. Try to get oem seadoo regulator.

Scott

ps what did you do to the gelcoat wetsand or just wax? if so what did you use... Did you use the heat gun on the plastic hood? THe ski looks great...

I detail cars on the side, so I have a whole arsenal of polishes, buffers, etc. I plan on ripping off the old graphics and getting some replicas made. Then buffing out the whole ski. These were just some test panels to see how bad it was going to be to buff out. Most of my polishes are by Adams Polishes. Made in the USA and good stuff. For this I tried an extra heavy duty cut made to buff out 800 grit sanding scratches, followed by Adams Swirl and Haze Remover, and then Adams Fine Machine Polish. Buffer I used was the flex VRG 3401 coupled with Adams buffing pads. Left it unwaxed for the time being since within the next few weeks I'll be doing the whole ski.

I didn't use the heat gun on the hood. Adams Super VRT(water repellant, for Vinyl/Rubber/Trim). I bought another hood, and just haven't put it on. So I really didn't put much effort into it.

I saw the no boosting sticker. What about a battery maintainer? I had it hooked up to one of those over the last couple of weeks. Never started it of course with it hooked up. Just didn't know if the electronics were that sensitive. Guy I bought it from said he's had no issues with it.......so maybe I created this problem.

So if the stator is good I should be getting between 12-14 volts? Anything higher and it's bad? What about lower?
 
running at 4k rpm's i believe the number should be 13.5... shut off the ski and check battery and should be around 12.5 volts, that means its charging. When my voltage regulator was going bad i was getting 14.5-16 volts. I used the battery maintainer, since it maintains a batery not charging it i don't believe it hurts the ski.

Scott
 
Check the voltage at the regulator while running or on the battery? If regulator where do I put the probes for the tester?
 
So I decided to heed my buddies warning and will be completely gutting the ski and going over pretty much everything. Upside it looks like the motor won't even need to be cracked open.

Hole 1
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Hole 2
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I don't think it's possible to ask for better compression.

Hmmm maybe I should start my own thread and not muck up this one...
 
Check the voltage at the regulator while running or on the battery? If regulator where do I put the probes for the tester?

your problem...if there is a problem...is prob not the rectifier. But...to answer your question put your probes on the battery terminals.

I dont care who told you what...if you dont KNOW for sure the carbs are clean, and it still has tempo lines its just not worth it. REBUILD THE CARBS, replace the needles and seats, change the fuel lines, clean the selector and seperator, replace the oil injection lines (3/32" id) and change the oil filter.
 
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your problem...if there is a problem...is prob not the rectifier. But...to answer your question put your probes on the battery terminals.

I dont care who told you what...if you dont KNOW for sure the carbs are clean, and it still has tempo lines its just not worth it. REBUILD THE CARBS, replace the needles and seats, change the fuel lines, clean the selector and seperator, replace the oil injection lines (3/32" id) and change the oil filter.

Oh yeah that's definitely on the list. The more I read the more it looks like its the typical case of tempo lines causing blockage. Changing the fuel lines today, and cleaning the carbs. Someone has definitely been in them before.....that I can tell. We'll see if it was just to clean them or rebuild.

And I'll most likely be switching to pre mix.
 
why switch to premix? seadoo's oil injection is very reliable. Replace the oil injection hoses when you change the fuel lines, its easier to do with the carbs off which you'll probably clean them at this point. remember to bleed the air from the oil pump. I add an extra ounce of oil per gallon in the gas, my personal opinion but a little extra oil never hurts a 2 stroke. Carbs should always be cleaned out, running lean can ruin a season. I mentioned the voltage regulator since it can make the ski act screwy even with clean carbs...

Scott
 
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