WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
:thumbsup:
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The X4 Thread
- Thread starter purple_people_eater
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Just means you need more balls to ride it, north of 60! Can't wait to GPS speed my XP!
You don't want to meet an unexpected wave "north" of 60....at least I don't.
Kinda similar to, you don't want to see any big bumps in the frozen lake at north of 100 mph on a snowmobile. 111 mph on radar on a snowmobile is the fastest I have ever been besides being in a car.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yes to everything, above, hitting even a small wave at 60+ on this hull can get ugly fast, i've never actually had it happen to me where I lost control, but i've had some scares for sure.
you can invest 3K easily into a fast 787, its not hard at all to get over 4K...
like they say.. speed is expensive, how fast do you want to spend ?
you can invest 3K easily into a fast 787, its not hard at all to get over 4K...
like they say.. speed is expensive, how fast do you want to spend ?
skewba98z28
Active Member
I haven't had it happen, but I could see where it could. I've got a brand new jet trim splash guard for my ski, but I don't think i'm going to install it. I like the splash 8 out of 10 times!
Flying96XP
New Member
What are the purple inserts inside the rave valves in the left motor picture?
They are billet replacements for the red plastic adjusters. They are made by Jetnetics and he listed some on ebay about six months ago and I gobbled up three pairs.
Sooo I think I have the bug after reading this thread over and over. Been keeping my eyes open for one and came across one that the Hull looks good but the engine has been removed and needs a top end. Everything else is there.
http://meridian.craigslist.org/boa/3113391616.html
My question is : Do you think a 96 XP with motor removed and needs top end is a good buy for $300 ?
http://meridian.craigslist.org/boa/3113391616.html
My question is : Do you think a 96 XP with motor removed and needs top end is a good buy for $300 ?
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
u know matt i bought a set of those too, from zig over at watcon but the screws (the purple part) did have a recess as deep as the stock's, were yours recessed ?
i need to find a guy with a drill press to make these usable, otherwise was going to just re-sell them because they are useless to me as is.
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
its also missing at least the right side sponson and who knows what else. if you're planning on doing the rebuild yourself, get it for less than you can part it out for. also, if the motor is apart and/or out and they said it needs a top end, it likely needs a full rebuild now that its been apart and exposed to the elements for a while.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yes, you can safely assume that the crank is toast as well, otherwise why would somebody sell the engine with the hull for that price? if the seller has 4 junk ski's trust me, this is not his first rodeo, the sponson is no biggie if the hull wasn't damaged, thats like $10. but you'd have to check for lots of other things, bring a battery, will it beep ? are the cables all rusted out, motor mounts bad? is the pump in dire need of a rebuild ? are all the electronics there? vts functional ? is the head toast ? are the pistons stuck in the cyl's and need hammered out ? is the stator all rusted ?
bottom line, a $300 ski quickly turns into a $1000 project if you have a ton of ticky tack stuff to worry about. and if the only thing good on the motor is the cases and maybe borable cyl's your into a crank exhange, maybe cb as well, head, gaskets, raves, flywheel, top end exchange, its not long before you've invested $1500 into a $1500 ski, and a ton of time invested as well, the list goes on and on. (trailer bearings, brackets, bunks, lights too)
then, after a month's worth of weekends, buying parts from 5 different guys, draining your paypal account, you scrape up enough money to fill the tank, buy a gallon of oil, and take it out on its maiden voyage, and since this is your first engine build, something goes wrong and you blow the engine in the first 20 minutes...
moral to the story, be careful what you wish for, bargain ski's are no bargains unless you know what the hell your doing.
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Good comments...I see what you are saying. Not too many X4's come up for sale around here. I guess you right. I need to keep looking for something that is runnable day one and then invest time/money knowing what it's condition is.
yes, you can safely assume that the crank is toast as well, otherwise why would somebody sell the engine with the hull for that price? if the seller has 4 junk ski's trust me, this is not his first rodeo, the sponson is no biggie if the hull wasn't damaged, thats like $10. but you'd have to check for lots of other things, bring a battery, will it beep ? are the cables all rusted out, motor mounts bad? is the pump in dire need of a rebuild ? are all the electronics there? vts functional ? is the head toast ? are the pistons stuck in the cyl's and need hammered out ? is the stator all rusted ?
bottom line, a $300 ski quickly turns into a $1000 project if you have a ton of ticky tack stuff to worry about. and if the only thing good on the motor is the cases and maybe borable cyl's your into a crank exhange, maybe cb as well, head, gaskets, raves, flywheel, top end exchange, its not long before you've invested $1500 into a $1500 ski, and a ton of time invested as well, the list goes on and on. (trailer bearings, brackets, bunks, lights too)
then, after a month's worth of weekends, buying parts from 5 different guys, draining your paypal account, you scrape up enough money to fill the tank, buy a gallon of oil, and take it out on its maiden voyage, and since this is your first engine build, something goes wrong and you blow the engine in the first 20 minutes...
moral to the story, be careful what you wish for, bargain ski's are no bargains unless you know what the hell your doing.
Spim, I did not drill them out and I also noticed the difference. I admit that I stuck them on just cause they were so "cool". Now I realize they may have my Raves opening late due top the increased spring tension. I have enough different engines to find the right places for them because some springs are larger than others and some pipes hit better when the raves open a little later(not Rossier, loosen Rave adjusters for that one).
I'm going to start cutting out a hole in the rave caps. I have seen this done before and now I know why. How else do you know if they are opening together? Now I will be able to watch them and tune them to open together. The Jetnetics will allow me to do this by hand on the fly. I'm showing off some custom billet rave parts in the pic as well.
I'm going to start cutting out a hole in the rave caps. I have seen this done before and now I know why. How else do you know if they are opening together? Now I will be able to watch them and tune them to open together. The Jetnetics will allow me to do this by hand on the fly. I'm showing off some custom billet rave parts in the pic as well.
Attachments
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
matt
1) i assume the gaskets made it to you, why they hell did you want gaskets that thick anyway ?
2) yes, i bought mind for cool factor as well, ended up being stupid factor instead. it was easier just to put the stock's back in than worry about how to make the purple ones work, wrote it off as a lesson not to buy "gadget items"
3) yes, cut a hole, it makes it so much easier. actually i just replaced my raves when I did a rebuild and somehow ended up with caps that weren't cut, thx for reminding me to do that this weekend lol
1) i assume the gaskets made it to you, why they hell did you want gaskets that thick anyway ?
2) yes, i bought mind for cool factor as well, ended up being stupid factor instead. it was easier just to put the stock's back in than worry about how to make the purple ones work, wrote it off as a lesson not to buy "gadget items"
3) yes, cut a hole, it makes it so much easier. actually i just replaced my raves when I did a rebuild and somehow ended up with caps that weren't cut, thx for reminding me to do that this weekend lol
KyleB
New Member
yes, you can safely assume that the crank is toast as well, otherwise why would somebody sell the engine with the hull for that price? if the seller has 4 junk ski's trust me, this is not his first rodeo, the sponson is no biggie if the hull wasn't damaged, thats like $10. but you'd have to check for lots of other things, bring a battery, will it beep ? are the cables all rusted out, motor mounts bad? is the pump in dire need of a rebuild ? are all the electronics there? vts functional ? is the head toast ? are the pistons stuck in the cyl's and need hammered out ? is the stator all rusted ?
bottom line, a $300 ski quickly turns into a $1000 project if you have a ton of ticky tack stuff to worry about. and if the only thing good on the motor is the cases and maybe borable cyl's your into a crank exhange, maybe cb as well, head, gaskets, raves, flywheel, top end exchange, its not long before you've invested $1500 into a $1500 ski, and a ton of time invested as well, the list goes on and on. (trailer bearings, brackets, bunks, lights too)
then, after a month's worth of weekends, buying parts from 5 different guys, draining your paypal account, you scrape up enough money to fill the tank, buy a gallon of oil, and take it out on its maiden voyage, and since this is your first engine build, something goes wrong and you blow the engine in the first 20 minutes...
moral to the story, be careful what you wish for, bargain ski's are no bargains unless you know what the hell your doing.
:agree:Listen to Spim. He knows what he's talking about. On the other hand if this is a ski that you really want to work on and really don't mind spending more that what the ski will be worth after you get finished I say go for it. It comes down to a cost vs. value vs. fun test. If you are not comfortable with 2 stroke skis or if you are not comfortable do the kind of work that will most likely be required you will probably need to pass on this one. Just my thoughts. Good luck and :cheers:
I got the gaskets, thanks. I needed them that thick to get my squish gap up to 47-50. I used to just bolt on all the "cool looking" stuff I could find and it hardly ever worked out. Now I study, measure and alter as necessary. I was having to double base gaskets and I felt like a hack. The last three long blocks I put together were tore back down 6-8 times each just to make little changes and try to feel better about it. The longer I wait before I run them the more I learn about how not to make costly mistakes. Keep in mind these ain't your run of the mill 787's. I plan to run one at 7500rpm and the other at 7800-8000!
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
lol i'm far from an expert, but Its not my first rodeo either, one sure sign that a ski is a bad buy is that the owner has multiple hulls in his back yard, this means he's already determined that this isn't worth fixing and he's dumping dead weight for cheap, hoping that some unsuspecting buyer comes along and think's they are getting a steal of a deal only to find out that they just bought a money pit.
i'd much rather buy a ski for $2-300 more from a Joe Blow type that just got tired of it,or decided not to fix it this last time and his wife told him to get rid of the eyesore. You've got a much better chance that ONLY the engine is in need of repair, not everything else. Heck i've bought more than one ski where the owner thought the engine was locked up but it turned out the pump was stuck. so you might get real lucky, i have before.
Its always best to assume the worst !
if you can't do your own work or have a buddy that will help for beer, your walking into trouble, a good mechanic isn't cheap
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Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
ok cool, i was just curious, we were having lunch and it kind of had us puzzled over what you were trying to accomplish, anytime I see something out of the ordinary I can't help but ask why, i always want to know how people approach problems with some creative out of the box thinking, it might help me down the line some day.
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
I swapped out my R&D intake grate for a Worx maxiloader and its great. The Worx seems to hook up much better all around. I even gained some overall top speed in the chop which was really noticeable. Has anyone ran a Solas grate? I'm trying to decide on the solas or r&d for the 717X4.
speedbuggy67
Active Member
have you tried running no grate? that'd be a good comparison to throw in the mix...
Scott
Scott
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yip.... i rode mine for 6 months with no grate... in the chop i didn't like it, but on flat water, no grate was better than any grate
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