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The X4 Thread

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I have been watching my friend's neighbor's skis get progressively worse over the years in the driveway but never saw them home. Last weekend I saw him for the first time and introduced myself and asked if he wanted to sell them. He said they were worth about $5,000 and I think great, one of these guys. He says he can't ride them due to medical reasons and he keeps asking what I would offer and he says they were winterized a few years ago and when the covers tore he just lost interest. I told him the condition is unknown so I offerd $500 and he said he was thinking $600. YES! I held at $500 and he agreed so I took home a 1996 XP for $500 but I had to agree to take a 1996 WaveBlaster 2 and a double LongRun trailer for free. They are going to need some elbow grease to get clean but after washing the dirt off they already look better. The XP has good spark and 150psi in each hole. My first step is to replace the fuel lines and carb kits to see if it will fire. The VTS is bad and the trim and speedo gauges are shot. The blaster looks good and the compression is good too.

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Take a look at the decals on the XP I like them and have never seen them before. Any ideas? They look like the 1999 SPX but they do not say SPX, they say Bombardier. The dash also says XP Limited. Could they have been a factory accessory? Sucks they are going to have to come off to polish the yellow.

Also do you think the seat foam can be saved? Am I going to have to find a complete replacement seat?

99 spx graphics. Probably bought them from sea-doo. Definitely a project ski.
 
Sometimes you just have to ask.

SPX800, I do not think they are SPX because the rear hull decals on the SPX say "SPX" and mine say "Bombardier". That is why I was thinking they might be and accessory. They are definatly a project but so far it looks only cosmetic, mechanically they seem to be in grat shape and engines and bilges are clean. Looks like the sun took it's toll but other than the seat it is just polishing.
 
Decal mystery solved. Front and lower decals are from a 1999 SPX and the rear are from a 1999 XP limited installed backwards. Too bad they are no longer available.
 
Cool Spimothy

Matt I looked at my grate and didn't see a number on it. Do you know where it would be stamped at?

I'm planning on going out and ripping it up on the 4th. Hopefully my carb parts will be here by tomorrow. I rebuilt mine with sbt kits and now i'm fighting a flooded condition when I try to start my ski that wasn't there before. You have to hold the throttle at about 1/4 to get it going. Once it starts it runs perfect. I read one of Dr Honda's old post where he talked about aftermarket diaphrams holding the needles slightly open. I'm going to install new mikuni diaphrams, formed o-rings, pin/needle arms, and my original needle and seats to get rid of most the aftermarket parts. Hopefully that fixes my problem! Fingers crossed :willy_nilly:

Can any of you guys confirm my conclusion?

Where you riding? I was hoping to go out as well.
 
Hey Skewba it's on the underside. The casting is not so perfect but I think this one is a 16. I tried to sneak in a piece of my JD triple concave rideplate and shoe.

Nice score Noid! Some Yamaha dude is gonna buy that blaster from you for enough to fund some X4 mods!:thumbsup:
 

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Sounds like the same thing mine was doing at the first of the season. Next time its in the water leave the seat off, run it, and look to see the the water regulator on top of the waterbox is leaking. If it is that is your problem. Its dumping way to much water in the exhaust and your motor can not overcome the back pressure.

I looked today at the water box after it started to bogg down and the water box was bone dry.

I don't know if that's what you ment though.
 
Hey Skewba it's on the underside. The casting is not so perfect but I think this one is a 16. I tried to sneak in a piece of my JD triple concave rideplate and shoe.

Nice score Noid! Some Yamaha dude is gonna buy that blaster from you for enough to fund some X4 mods!:thumbsup:

Looks like an 18 to me, but the pic is blurry, JD grates are by far the best for hook-up.
 
Hey guys. I started one of my XPs in the driveway this morning and noticed the starter was intermittently kinda catching and free spinning but the ski started and sounded just as good as it always does. So I get to the lake and click click click. No start, no starter spinning just clicking every time I hit the button.

Cables on the starter are tight and I tried to jump the solenoid terminals and got the same result, Just a click every time I hit the button. Battery voltage read 13v, This is a bad starter isn't it?
 
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Hmm i'll look again but i believe mine is wore off. I love my grate especially after today. I out ran a 00 RX Carb in a drag race because he couldn't stay hooked up. Even got him on slick water also do to the hole shot.
 
Hey guys. I started one of my XPs in the driveway this morning and noticed the starter was intermittently kinda catching and free spinning but the ski started and sounded just as good as it always does. So I get to the lake and click click click. No start, no starter spinning just clicking every time I hit the button.

Cables on the starter are tight and I tried to jump the solenoid terminals and got the same result, Just a click every time I hit the button. Battery voltage read 13v, This is a bad starter isn't it?

Yep bad starter if you jumped the solenoid and it still didn't start.
 
Hey guys. I started one of my XPs in the driveway this morning and noticed the starter was intermittently kinda catching and free spinning but the ski started and sounded just as good as it always does. So I get to the lake and click click click. No start, no starter spinning just clicking every time I hit the button.

Cables on the starter are tight and I tried to jump the solenoid terminals and got the same result, Just a click every time I hit the button. Battery voltage read 13v, This is a bad starter isn't it?

verify power down to the starter. if you've got that, take the plugs out and see if she'll turn. if not order you a rebuild kit if thats the oem starter.
 
I get mine there also. Be sure to mark the cases with a paint marker for alignment before you take your starter apart. If you don't your starter could be spinning backwards when you get it back together.
 
I get the whole brand new starter from DB for $52 shipped! So far so good. Get the 8-tooth, it dosen't have to work as hard.
 
Hmm i'll look again but i believe mine is wore off. I love my grate especially after today. I out ran a 00 RX Carb in a drag race because he couldn't stay hooked up. Even got him on slick water also do to the hole shot.

He didn't mention he outran my Spec 2 boat as well. I think in smooth water it would have been a different story. I'm running a stock grate for now.
 
Yeah we need to get a good run on slick water and verify your rpm. I think your ski has a lot more in it.

I had a DBelectric starter on my old RFI and it made it about 6 months. The bendix started slipping and wouldn't stay engaged with the fly wheel.
 
See this pic. The red arrow is pointing to the adjustment knob. It should be flush or just above flush in relation to the cap. The blue arrow is pointing to the bottom of the cap where you should see water coming from if it is leaking. Mine was pouring a steady stream would I had the same issue you are describing.
 

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See this pic. The red arrow is pointing to the adjustment knob. It should be flush or just above flush in relation to the cap. The blue arrow is pointing to the bottom of the cap where you should see water coming from if it is leaking. Mine was pouring a steady stream would I had the same issue you are describing.

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spot on.

you could always hard jet the box if you wanted to, but then you should consider a water filter, i noticed an improvement in RPM's when i hard jetted, picked up about 200 if I remember correctly. Started with a 135 jet and I think I'm running 120 right now, maybe lower i'm not sure I'd need a magnifying glass.
 
Spimy yer so dang clever with those little clips. My Favorite is the one from "Friday" when his hood paint cost $100.
 
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