The X4 Thread

[Dr Honda]

i've read how bad some of the handlebar pads get on x4's and mine was no different mold/mildew spots all over it, tried soft scrub, brush, cleaner after cleaner with no luck. water/clorox mix soaking for almost a week cleared it up. Prior to using the clorox mix i tried abrasives and it just started to scratch the cover, worked great highly recommend it!

The best way to clean it is to use Zipo Lighter Fluid. Just squirt it on the pad, and wipe. It will look like new.

The reall issue with the pads, is that the rubber they are made from decays, and gets gummy. At that point, you can't save it.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

The best way to clean it is to use Zipo Lighter Fluid. Just squirt it on the pad, and wipe. It will look like new.

The reall issue with the pads, is that the rubber they are made from decays, and gets gummy. At that point, you can't save it.

You gotta be joking!!! I'm gonna try one tomorrow.

NEVER heard of using that!:thumbsup:

 

[purple_people_eater]

i always used steel wool and elbow greese lol

 

[skewba98z28]

You gotta be joking!!! I'm gonna try one tomorrow.

NEVER heard of using that!:thumbsup:

Please report back on what you find! That would be awesome! If not mine is going to soak for a week

 

[ocod]

The best way to clean it is to use Zipo Lighter Fluid. Just squirt it on the pad, and wipe. It will look like new.

The reall issue with the pads, is that the rubber they are made from decays, and gets gummy. At that point, you can't save it.

You gotta be joking!!! I'm gonna try one tomorrow.

NEVER heard of using that!:thumbsup:

I try to get you close ups but it really does a damm good job.
Only thing since working with lighter fluid in small areas it got really gummy the wiping it would stick so a blade was used to scrape. Thats when the yellow broke through the mold.

Worked blade at different angles up and down and looked almost new when done.
Pad suffered some cuts but only noticeable when looking carefully at it.
You really have to add some pressure to get through gummy stuff as to scrape off layers of the rubber.

Got the black SBT BT cover though since I'm switching Yellow -----> Black.

 

[Devan]

Yup a guy with an aluminum welder can fix that right up.

Hi Nick thanks, I assume I would need to take off the pipe to have it done instead of taking the whole ski down to their shop, and take the chance of them blowing it up or taking the pipe off wrong?

Also do you have any spare sender units for the speedo?

 

[Dr Honda]

You gotta be joking!!! I'm gonna try one tomorrow.

NEVER heard of using that!:thumbsup:

I figured it out, quite by accident. I use Zipo fluid to clean off sticker glue. Works great, and doesn't hurt the paint. Anyway... I was cleaning some stuff, and got it onto the pad. it left some perfectly clean spots, so I thought... "What the heck"... and I had at it. I didn't let this secret out before because I didn't know the long term affect on the rubber. BUT... then I forgot.

Anyway... Give it a try... but Zipo fluid is great to keep in the shop.

 

[speedbuggy67]

i almost thought my mold spots were deep into the yellow, the steel wool just scratched the crap out of it. i tried paint thinner, goo gone, acetone, never tried the lighter fluid but from experience each day soaking with water/chlorox mix(99cent store chlorox) and black faded each day. NO scratches just black faded away. First day or two the black mold turned to brownish eventually fading away. My neighbors 95xp is gummed up but will probably try chlorox at least to make it yellow again. Might try your lighter fluid for the heck of it first.

Scott

PS goo gone cleaned up the torn section of decal good left and with a q tip i faded the hot pink 96 graphic on that edge so it looked like the rest of the decal.

 

[purple_people_eater]

yeah steel wool takes the rubber, mold and everything else and makes it gone!! lol

 

[Dr Honda]

Hi Guys,

Just a quick question. Last summer, when we were talking about the trim tabs... I said I may make some up. So... would you guys be interested in a set of 3 degree, billet aluminum tabs?

Since winter is on us... my bike stuff has slowed down, and my skis are at my shop, sleeping. This would be the time to make them if there is interest.

Just as an FYI... they would be like the old R&D tabs. I don't have a price yet. I will have to make the fixtures, and see how long they will take to machine... but I would imagine that they will be $130 or less for the pair.

 

[purple_people_eater]

Hi Guys,

Just a quick question. Last summer, when we were talking about the trim tabs... I said I may make some up. So... would you guys be interested in a set of 3 degree, billet aluminum tabs?

Since winter is on us... my bike stuff has slowed down, and my skis are at my shop, sleeping. This would be the time to make them if there is interest.

Just as an FYI... they would be like the old R&D tabs. I don't have a price yet. I will have to make the fixtures, and see how long they will take to machine... but I would imagine that they will be $130 or less for the pair.

honestly, i'm more intrested in sponsons atm. frankly i can't bring myself to spend $300+ on a set of worx's, and i can't find beach houses anymore. you think you could do something with your equipment? i'd much rather pay you than some big compeny.

 

[spx800]

i bought a set of tracker sponsons off pwctoday last summer and they work really well.

 

[purple_people_eater]

OK guys now things have finally slowed down for me, I've been toying around with this idea of a "lever" trim system to replace the slow vts. it would work like the reverse gates do, or like the throttle of an old push lawn mower. move the lever into position and the nozzle moves with it and stays there. no more waiting, no more burned electrical non-since to worry with anymore. right now I'm working on the best place to put a lever and then work on the cable/lock from there. I'm still looking for ideas so if you guys have any please share. who knows we might have us a seadoo forum trim-fix in the works lol.

 

[KyleB]

I figured it out, quite by accident. I use Zipo fluid to clean off sticker glue. Works great, and doesn't hurt the paint. Anyway... I was cleaning some stuff, and got it onto the pad. it left some perfectly clean spots, so I thought... "What the heck"... and I had at it. I didn't let this secret out before because I didn't know the long term affect on the rubber. BUT... then I forgot.

Anyway... Give it a try... but Zipo fluid is great to keep in the shop.

I looking forward to trying this trick Doc. One other thing I found is good for the boat is Mister Clean Magic Erasers. They work pretty well but you still have to use some elbow grease.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

OK guys now things have finally slowed down for me, I've been toying around with this idea of a "lever" trim system to replace the slow vts. it would work like the reverse gates do, or like the throttle of an old push lawn mower. move the lever into position and the nozzle moves with it and stays there. no more waiting, no more burned electrical non-since to worry with anymore. right now I'm working on the best place to put a lever and then work on the cable/lock from there. I'm still looking for ideas so if you guys have any please share. who knows we might have us a seadoo forum trim-fix in the works lol.

i have a buddy that put that on his 95xp, i'd have to ask him what the setup came off of, but it was a finger lever on the left handlebar, the idea was that you could quick trim it before a wake jump. he's a pretty strong guy but after a couple of rides went back to the hx manual trim setup, since he said he couldn't hold the trim up and he's very mechanical and tinkered with it for quite some time. Its quite possible he still has the setup in the garage, maybe I can get you some pic's or details. in this case it wasn't a fixed position lever, it was just a quick pull that popped back into the "neutral" spot when he let go of it.

your thinking something along the lines of a fixed lever? so if say it has 5 settings or something you can put into position and set it ?
and it stays there ?
i'd be interested in seeing how that could be done...anythings possible, maybe using some variation of a reverse lever with 5 notches or so ?

 

[purple_people_eater]

i have a buddy that put that on his 95xp, i'd have to ask him what the setup came off of, but it was a finger lever on the left handlebar, the idea was that you could quick trim it before a wake jump. he's a pretty strong guy but after a couple of rides went back to the hx manual trim setup, since he said he couldn't hold the trim up and he's very mechanical and tinkered with it for quite some time. Its quite possible he still has the setup in the garage, maybe I can get you some pic's or details. in this case it wasn't a fixed position lever, it was just a quick pull that popped back into the "neutral" spot when he let go of it.

your thinking something along the lines of a fixed lever? so if say it has 5 settings or something you can put into position and set it ?
and it stays there ?
i'd be interested in seeing how that could be done...anythings possible, maybe using some variation of a reverse lever with 5 notches or so ?

exactly, i'm thinging something that if you want play drop the lever and forget about it, if your moving pull it up to trim up.

 

[KyleB]

I've been thinking of the same thing. One of the issues that I thought of using the notch idea is how to keep the lever in the notch. Right now the VTS angle is pretty much unlimited (if it's working...mine is currently in the fixed mid position since it no longer works) the notch will limit you on the setting. I would imagine it would take a pretty strong spring to keep it there during hard turns since that has the possibility of torquing the nozzle. I'm still thinking and if I come up with something I'll post it. :cheers:

 

[purple_people_eater]

I've been thinking of the same thing. One of the issues that I thought of using the notch idea is how to keep the lever in the notch. Right now the VTS angle is pretty much unlimited (if it's working...mine is currently in the fixed mid position since it no longer works) the notch will limit you on the setting. I would imagine it would take a pretty strong spring to keep it there during hard turns since that has the possibility of torquing the nozzle. I'm still thinking and if I come up with something I'll post it. :cheers:

i only ever use two positions, full up or full down and rarely anything in between.

 

[skewba98z28]

Made some progress on my XP defunking :thumbsup: I had to wet sand with 1500 where the old hull numbers were. You can just barely see where they were. Once I get my numbers on you will probably never see it unless you know where to look.

 

[spx800]

the lever trim system isn't new news. it's been around for a while. you can buy complete systems. minnetonka has manual trim on both of his doos.

 

[purple_people_eater]

i know, but he has umi setups, and i hear those are getting really hard to find.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

OK guys now things have finally slowed down for me, I've been toying around with this idea of a "lever" trim system to replace the slow vts. it would work like the reverse gates do, or like the throttle of an old push lawn mower. move the lever into position and the nozzle moves with it and stays there. no more waiting, no more burned electrical non-since to worry with anymore. right now I'm working on the best place to put a lever and then work on the cable/lock from there. I'm still looking for ideas so if you guys have any please share. who knows we might have us a seadoo forum trim-fix in the works lol.

if I can understand you correctly, your saying the vts is too slow to respond when you hit the button ?

when mine was working, i didn't really notice a slow response time.

when it stopped working i just set it a hair above the middle and haven't really thought about the trim since.

 

[purple_people_eater]

if I can understand you correctly, your saying the vts is too slow to respond when you hit the button ?

when mine was working, i didn't really notice a slow response time.

when it stopped working i just set it a hair above the middle and haven't really thought about the trim since.

like i said i only use full up and full down. and mine was just slow to get to those positions. i don't like the just set in the middle thing, i did that before i rebuilt my vts motor and did not like it.

 

[spx800]

i agree, it's not that the vts is slow, but to go from full up to full down, does take some time, it's much slower than the manual set-up. i believe it's normally full up and squeezing controls the range of motion from full-up to full-down (anywhere in between), then when you release it goes back to the normally closed position (full-up). this is an assumption, but i don't know for sure as i don't have one, yet.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

You got it SPX...I have mine set to a little above level which is good for jumping upwards more than outwards. Then I grab it when I land to get turned around and back up to speed and let go of the lever.

UMI never made them...they did make a replacement lever though.

Redtop made some cheap cable ones...that is what I have on both of mine. R&D made one that had some linkage to make it have a bit more throw. Then, Baker got in the game by adding a hydraulic ram instead of the cable setup on the same R&D setup. Lastly Mygura, a company that makes mountain bike parts, basically took the redtop design and made it into a cheaper hydro setup.

They have become pretty much non existent in the past few years like other X-4 aftermarket parts...so the price has gone thru the roof. 10 years ago this stuff was everywhere and could be found in a few hours for $100-150. Good luck finding one that cheap these days!