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The X4 Thread

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I swung by Harbor Freight today and scored one of there 7in variable speed polishers for $50. I decided to start on my newly purchased xp. I'll let the pics tell the tale, but needless to say it rocks! You can just barely see where the stickers used to be. I have a feeling if I get some 3m finishing compound it will take the lines the rest of the way out. I just used the two Meguiars products in the pictures. I started with the wool pad and finished with the foam. I spent about 20 mins on that section.
 

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Hi All,

Thanks for the great info in this thread.

I got the 96 XP and trailer about two weeks ago for $3,000 at the Seadoo dealer in Perth. It had just been traded in that morning.

With the info on this forum I removed the pink decals, relaced the battery with a gell one, cleaned VTS motor and replaced the VTS boot, changed the fuel lines and just waiting for new parts for the carbon seals/boots on the driveshaft including the shaft (as i will have all that out I though it best to change the shaft after 16 years) and a pump cone kit.

Once I have the pump out I will check the wear ring and the bearings / seals.

The parts cost me around $350 shipped from the US, it would have been close to $1000 here in Australia as just the drive shaft is $375 here.

I was going to order the worx intake (to stop the bouncing as i am around $105Kg and 6f,6) and a few other items but it seems to have everything already, WORX sponson, Fly racing bars, Prok carb arrestors, WORX grate, hydroturf. I must say a very well looked after ski.

I am hoping that if I order some Hull Extensions it will keep the nose down as I keep on bouncing unless it is flat, Perth can get very windy some of the time.

I have been searching everywhere for a speedo with no luck, if anyone has a spare working one please let me know as they seem to be like chickens teeth.

I need to fix the steering play and seen the thread using a beer can, is there an easier way to sort this out on this model?

Many thanks in advance.

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Good looking ski! That gives me motivation to finishing pulling the stickers off the one I just bought and finish buffing it out. I was amazed at how easy the factory stickers came off using a heat gun.
 
Thanks yea the heat gun was great. I want to get black seadoo decals to replace the two pink ones I have left on the hull.
 
The pickup is usually at fault...not the speedo gauge. I'll look and see if I have a nice one, but I think all I have right now is working ones with cracks. I do have some gauges but they are faded.
 
shim your trim tabs to heep you nose down. if you go after market they'll reduce your jumping ablitly. the info/method is on like page 7-8 or 9 on this thred.
 
The pickup is usually at fault...not the speedo gauge. I'll look and see if I have a nice one, but I think all I have right now is working ones with cracks. I do have some gauges but they are faded.

Thanks I pulled the speedo apart and it is just a lump of rusted metal inside, the harness also only has two pins left on it, the rest were rusted through and it had no dial. Even a faded working one would be ok.
 
shim your trim tabs to heep you nose down. if you go after market they'll reduce your jumping ablitly. the info/method is on like page 7-8 or 9 on this thred.

Thanks Scott, I read that section but there is a WORX dealer in Australia and they sell them for around $160 so I might just order them as see if it is any better.
 
If all you want to do is race bouys...get them. BUT I cannot stress enough...you will not be able to jump it for any height. XPs jump AWESOME, so you would be killing the best thing they are for.

You may want to try a different position on the sponsons or a different intake grate. Also just standing up and leaning forward helps. I ride on a lake that is choppy ALL the time and would never consider them after trying it.
 
and as far as the earlier post, i never felt porpoising was a big issue either with this hull
when i start to bounce, there are several options
1) stand up, instant shock absorbency (knees)
2) change speed, + or - 3-5mph and you can usually skip over the chop pretty smoothly
3) change direction (not saying do a 180) just adjust your path a few degrees left or right, to change the direction your approaching the chop just enough that you can skip over the waves.
now.. thats for chop... for 2-4 foot sea's, well, jump them !!!! if you wanted to cut thru real choppy water like butter, get a different ski.
 
If all you want to do is race bouys...get them. BUT I cannot stress enough...you will not be able to jump it for any height. XPs jump AWESOME, so you would be killing the best thing they are for.

You may want to try a different position on the sponsons or a different intake grate. Also just standing up and leaning forward helps. I ride on a lake that is choppy ALL the time and would never consider them after trying it.

Ok I see what you mean about the jumping, I adjusted the Sponsons and yesterday there was a 3 to 4 foot swell with the swell about 3 - 4 meters apart, man it was fun. Also with the Sponsons further up the ski did not dig in so much which allowed me to surf the swell from backline all the to the shorebreak.
 
if its shallow in that "hole" in between swells get some extra vts rods and Steering cables. We did some wave riding on Lake Superior and I busted both hitting ground about 45min after getting out there. Sliding/surfing wave crests is def fun though!

Heres a picture after I broke..

 
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So I am going to order some hydro turf for christmas, whats better the cut groove or the diamond cut?
 
Groove IMO...the diamond is a little more prone to wear.

Order it thru the link at the top; prob the cheapest you can get it for.
 
i also say groove, but the last two installs of diamond plate i saw looked pretty sweet.
groove is the better choice long term
 
Alright, I was leaning towards the groove. I cant decide between black marble or yellow camo. What yours guys opinion? yellow or marble
 

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Alright, I was leaning towards the groove. I cant decide between black marble or yellow camo. What yours guys opinion? yellow or marble

The white/grey camo would look perfect. Then get a single gauge hood and paint it black and a Jettrim seat cover.

Yeah the diamond does look awesome...esp the 2 color, but it just doesnt hold up.

Where in WI are you? We got a early summer ride planned in the Dells, and of course the event of the year...LOL THE SORTIE in Lake City, MN the 3rd weekend of aug.
 
I vote for the black marble, it just looks classier. BTW the pic. you posted is reversed.

Lou
 
i vote for black, not two color....
i HATE two color !
but to each their own.

and i agree with the single gauge hood, it just HAS to go...

before (stock photo) (i never take a pic of a ski with a mirrored hood except to show what NOT to do)

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after, with single gauge hood installed

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front view, before... (and this is a really clean ski) (again, stock photo)
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after
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oh, and here's a decent pick of the black diamond cut.. it really does look good :)

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honestly don't know why they switched from the single gauge hood on the earlier models, to the mirrored multi gauge hood it screws the look so bad.
 
Really like that single guage hood! Was that a stock SeaDoo item or aftermarket. I want to change the one on my '95 and am looking for a source. Thanks
 
Really like that single guage hood! Was that a stock SeaDoo item or aftermarket. I want to change the one on my '95 and am looking for a source. Thanks

simply look for one used , generally a good condition one runs about $50 (shipped if your lucky, + shipping if not)
sand it, paint it, install it !

its a stock seadoo item that was installed on other models, so basically you want a used single gauge hood off an old ski thats been junked.

check the classifieds on the forums, there are always one or two for sale.
 
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I've got one more left for sale...I get $100 shipped. Just sold one locally yesterday. One of the most popular mods out there. They were stock on SP/SPI/SPX....

Here's my hoods...

 
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Thanks for the response guys, this will be a priority come spring. Right now the snowmobiles have all my attention.
Also was wondering about the start/stop switch shown in your photos, been thinking about getting rid of the ugly stock handlebar cover and doing what you have done in these photos. Thanks again.
 
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Minnetonka4me - are those umi setups or stock
Stems with aftermarket handlebars? Looks good so I was curious. Also, do you have finger throttles on both sides?
 
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