There are no rave valves so I was sure it was a 720 until I bought a exhaust gasket for it and it was wrong, the dealership said it was a 800 but its a 720 engine must just have a different exhaust not sure. Of course they looked it up on microfiche and we know that should be good right because it stays updated. It's a 720. It is identical to wifes 97 GTI, and looks nothing like the 96.
I didn't take it that way :thumbsup:
I will try it out with them closed. Maybe it is the filter. Big ends but the center is small I had a 78 TA that didn't like those filters had forgoten about that till now.
Yes it is stock.
I think I may have an air leak it didn't do this before but after I put the carbs back on it ran away at idle instead of staying at 4k I will pull them back off and double check everything tomorrow or Friday. It did not do that before I took them off it was getting dark and I got in too big a hurry putting them on.
Yes I used a razerblade to check it.
OK... if the spark plugs are straight up, and the carbs are on one side, and the exhaust is on the other... that's a 720. (no RAVE's either) I just wanted to make sure so if we start talking carb specs... I give you the right info.
I would get the carbs off, and do a full dissassemblely, and treat them like they've never been rebuilt. Go over everything, and verify that EVERY passage is open. I remember doing a motorcycle carb back in the day... and because I had it off 3 times already... I was just "Skimming" over the rebuild. When I finally sat down, and verified everything (in a very methodical way) I found a plug in the emulsion system.
Also... make sure that EVERY hose clamp is on, and is tight. A small air leak in the fuel hose coming up to the carb will give surging issues.
did you lose top speed with the skat-trak?
Nope. (I don't think I did) I got 56 mph out of it the other day. (light chop) Before I did the work on the drive... I could only get 45 mph out of it because it was bouncing so bad. Also, it was showing some light cavitation.
The list for the drive was:
1) Shim trim tabs to 3 degrees
2) install swirl 17/23
3) Re-seal the shoe
4) Install a UMI Top-loader
5) Bore nozzle 1mm.
6) Clean the flashing out of the bronze casting.
7) new neoprene seal
8) shim the carbon ring
With the above done... I can sit my fat butt on the back of the seat, and hold the throttle wide open, and it will run flat. With the VTS trim up... I can feel the nose just skating on the water. (The big tabs become the wet'ed area of the hull)