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The X4 Thread

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i made it out today and my exhuast broke lose again. half it at least, so i got to fix the other side then post up the write up.

@dr honda about tabs, yeah i would buy set, and i would like a something else machenied if you would, pm me when you get a chance.
 
Purple: Just shoot me an email: tony (at) a-lmotorsports (dot) com

OK... Since I want a set of new tabs for myself... I'll draw them up tomorrow, and see if I can get a prototype done this week.
 
Well we went back out this evening and we carried everything except my 96 XP which still isn't happy. We had Mom, Dad and Son on the pontoon. My sister and her boyfriend were on her Polaris and our extra ski (pink 92 Yamaha that's never had anything wrong with it). Wife was on her GTI and I was riding my son's 95 XP.:grouphug: It was the best trip we ever had because it was the first time we didn't tow anything back to the dock. I also have now figured out after riding son's 95 XP that my 96 has never run right since I got it. At 80 percent throttle it had more pull and power than my 96 did. It will be my next project. Also had a dead spot on the 95's throttle about 75-80%. It would bog down almost like not getting enough gas. I set the carbs up to factory and rebuilt them with engine. I either missed a spec of trash somewhere or need to change the adjustment. But we had a blast:hurray:.

Dr. Honda,

Dad put the plummer's silicone on the pump housing edge where it joins the boat. The book said nothing about that, but he read that any air leaks there would cause power loss. So he figured he would seal it. I said was prolly fine without it and he said then I will just put a small bead around it... We have a hard headed family.
 
Got a ?, so my gas gauge doesnt work is there anyway to fix that or are they know to go out? Any help would be great
 
Got a ?, so my gas gauge doesnt work is there anyway to fix that or are they know to go out? Any help would be great

Normally, the float sinks because it doesn't like our new fuels. (that's in the fuel tank)

BUT... to get the gauge out... remove the panel under the hood, and reach in. There is a threaded ring around the gauge. It's not easy... but twist the ring off.
 
Alright, I was also going to ask how long did it take you guys to do the fuel lines?

Anyone know a link for a float?
 
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Alright, I was also going to ask how long did it take you guys to do the fuel lines?


Well.... it's a little more than just doing the fuel lines. You will need to clean the fuel select valve, the factory fuel filter, and the carbs. In my shop this is 3 hr's labor plus parts.

When I'm doing it "Recreationally" at home (my own junk) it takes an afternoon. (25' of 1/4" fuel hose, 20 clamps, 2 cans of carb cleaner, and castrol super clean for the plastic parts)


Anyone know a link for a float?

here's one on eBay... but your local dealer will have them too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SeaDoo-Float-Fu...aultDomain_0&hash=item20bb782202#ht_708wt_905
 
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Just cant win. All new bushings sleeves, lock washers and red loctite on the head pipe bolts. I rode for 25 minutes and boom loose once again although not as bad or as fast... so much for enjoying my new ski lol.
 
One small step closer to getting this thing to run...

Well, amongst all the other work I had to do during my brief stay at home over the past weekend, I was able to re-install the "rebuilt" OEM starter. At first I thought I was going to have to take it out and back for a refund as I would hit the start/stop button and it did the same crap as before. I tried the Solenoid Jump test, and it cranked every time without fail. So I started checking out the next issue which is the no spark problem. I am definitely not getting a spark. I plug in the security key, get the two beeps, and jumped the solonoid but no spark. I tried a test light on the white wire going to the coil and I do not get a pulse. What would my next step be? I want to at least get it to fire before I do all the work to replace the fuel lines. It sounds like I will need a solonoid, hopefully that is all the start/stop problem is. I here the solenoid click, and the starter makes some strange noises at times, but... Seems like the solonoid is shot.

I took out the VTS motor and put some power to it, but couldnt really get it to do much. Didnt research what power goes where, but grounded it on the negetive terminal of a car batter and hit the positive side to either wire connecter and got nothing, not even a spark. Am I testing it correctly? I even tried one wire to pos. and one to neg. visa versa and not a thing. I put the fuse in the recepticle without the moter even connected or in the box, and it still popped. I think the VTS box behind the motor must be fried.

I noticed that the plugs installed in my ski are not the BR8ES, but are BR9exi or somethign like that. I am sure I have some BR8ES plugs laying around that I can clean up and use. Why would someone (The last shop that serviced this Ski) use the BR9 plug? They also charged about $60.00 to flush oil out of the rear cylinder. Not sure that makes any sense to me. If it was loaded up, wouldnt you just pull the plug and crank it? Out goes the oil along with the fuel and whatever else is in there?!

I was able to do a compression test now that I am able to jump the solenoid starter. The rear read 148 and the forward read 153 which I think is pretty darn good. (I have a 1995 SP that is reading 125 on both is that engine getting tired, or will it require help soon?)

I want to get this thing fired up before I start on all the other things like changing out the fuel lines, etc. As for the stock Fuel Filter, do you normally just replace that guy, or clean it and leave it in-line? I would think a clear automotive one would work just as good, but then again, there is oil in the gas going thorugh it, would that become a problem?

Dr. Honda, once I get this thing running, I know I will want a set of your custom trim tabs, so please put me in line for them as well.

Thanks for all the help guys. One of these days I will get to take a maiden voyage! I am taking next week off to work around the house and get some things done. Hopefully I will get some answers on how to get spark to my plugs. I am still hoping it is not the pickup coil at the front of the engine, but I will do what I have to do if needed.
 
Ughhh I was hoping it was something else!! How big of a job is it to get to and replace that darn gremlin? At least I wont have to pull the darn starter off again right?!

I think I read you have to take the Water Box, the pumps drive shaft, and the exhaust loose, unmount the engine and slide it back in order to get to soem of the bolts on the front cover. Is there a writeup on this procedure anywhere? I guess I could always look it up and follow the manuals instructions, but that would be to easy, or hard depending...

Where is the best place to get a Starter Solenoid, and also the the pickup coil? Does Parker Yamaha have these items? Looks like I am going to need the VTS box as well as I let the smoke out of it. Not sure how to test the motor to see if it is good. I tried all the combinations I could think of, but no sparks no noise, nothing.... Wonder if it is really that dead? Would think I would get some sort of resistance or a spark if I am doing it correctly, or incorrectly for that matter! Ha ha
 
I was just thinking, for SOME of my troubleshooting, and an attempt to save some $ on un needed parts, are my 1995 SP and 1996 XP's Starter Solenoid Relay and Coils interchangeable? That would be the best way to test the XP, if they are. Any input? Thanks.
 
Well if your coil is broke you will find out real fast when you get that front cover off. It's usually hanging in there. The soliniod should be intercgangable but idk about anything else. Just double check all your grounds first. Expescially the little one comming out of rear ebox and going to battery.


It really isn't that bad to get the front cover off. You don't need to pull the pump or back motor mounts or you will have to realign motor. Just get a 2x4 piece n slide in in front of engine. I usually get a little strap and hook it from pipe to rear grab bar and put a,little tension in it. Remove the 13mm bolts on the front motor mount. All 3 of them. Then take it out of the way. Don't loose any shims. Then I think there is 9 10mm bolts around the cover get all them off. It may come off easy if not get a flathead n pry it off. If the pickup is dangling or looks broke pull it out if not just slap it all back together. Only think on the 96xp its hard to get the front cover out without removing the pipe. But if its bad you can try n get it out if not pull the pipe off or the top of the flame arrestors and slide it threw that away. Sorry if any of this is messed up looking its early and I'm on my phone lol.
 
the fuel filter that's in the front compartment can usually be cleaned if it's not in bad shape. mine was fairly clean so i just swabbed it down with a q-tip. you can also install a small fuel filter inline right before the carbs.
 
Sorry for the late start today, but I had a rough night with the new baby.


OK....

Trim tabs: I'm actually going to be working on them today. If things go smooth, I'll post a prototype pic later.

No Spark: Yep, I agree... it's very likely that it's the pulse coil.

Filter: Open it up, and clean it out. Make sure the O-ring is good. If it leaks air, you will have problems. I like to clean it with something like Castrol Super clean. If you use carb cleaner on the plastic, it may attack it.

SparkPlugs: 9 heat range? Probably because most people don't understand. Witch is obvious since they stuck in an Iridium plug. They are absolutely useless in our beloved 2-stroke engines. Also, since you are having spark issues... don't clean up an old set of plugs. Go spend the $4 on some new ones. (BR8ES, gap 0.022")

VTS: Where are you trying to put power? If you are trying to fire up the entire VTS, you have to do a lot more than just put power on it.


Solinoid: Yes... it should interchange.


Final thoughts: Even though I've had minimal sleep, and no coffee yet... since there are a bunch of electrical issues... are we sure your MPEM is working?
 
Darn skis man sometimes mote trouble than there worth. But can be alot of fun once all the kinks are finally worked out of them
 
Fyi finished the break in on son's 95 XP we are currently on the 5th tank. If you hold it WOT it goes up to 6500 rpm then drops to 4k then surges back and forth like that. All lines are new cleaned everything out even drained the tank did the carbs and have a fuel filter on it. I will try bumping the high side to 1/8 it's currently at 0. If that don't do anything will take em back apart. Also have new on off res switch. throttle is great untill about 3/4 then runs like poop. I will re-read the carberator guide Bill wrote maybe I missed something. It ran great untill yesterday evening.


Dr. Honda

I am still interested in trim tabs too, you going to be busy...
 
Does it feel like its getting thirsty for gas? Mine did that once were it was good until 3/4 but at full throttle it would go for a sec then start bogging down turned out my inline fuel filter was 2 small but idk if its surging.
 
Man that thing looks kinda small Dr Honda recomended a good one to me and it works great. I would try it first. It's a purolator f20011 it works good. Get it at autozone its bigger so it don't restrict any fuel flow.
 
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