The X4 Thread

[KyleB]

This is pretty much my dilemma. I measured three times and came up with the same measurement. This means I need to move up 1.5mm oversized and then get the cylinders bored .011 larger than 83.5? If my thinking is correct will this be outside of the parameters of the cylinders? Would I be better off exchanging the cylinders and get matching pistons and cylinders of would I be better off getting a sleeve? I was thinking this top end rebuild was going to be complicated but it seems that just getting the right parts is more complicated than the rebuild. This is getting frustrating! Thanks for your help.

Kyle

 

[brandon32689]

Maybe. Is check out fullbore.com you send him your cylinders and you will get back pistons that fit right in. Also if he has to bore them out he can do the rave valve mod

 

[KyleB]

Great info Brandon. Thanks. I'm probably going to go with fullbore and use the pro X pistons along with the RAVE mod. From the sound of things then I wont have to worry about them fitting. Thanks again for the tip. Anyone else have any experience with fullbore?

Kyle

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

you sure you want to go with Pro X? Those are racing pistons aren't they? I thought you had to replace those pistons like every 20hrs or something... I was told to stick with WSM for non-racing applications. Am I wrong?

 

[Dr Honda]

OK... so I did the Cabs, and fuel lines on my XP yesterday (2 skis in one week) and I took the ski out for a test run today... and I have a question.

Does anyone else's ski take a significant amount of pressure to the right, to make it go straight?

Since it's running very well, and the tabs are adjusted... I can hall a$$ without it bouncing. If no one else is having that problem... then I may not have the tabs set the same, and they are inducing a left turn.

 

[hackete]

On mine you have to hold it kinda hard at top speed. But the handlebars are pretty straight. I weight 256 lbs so it maybe our weight not sure. I know the ski is rated at 250 lbs, going by the book.

 

[Dr Honda]

Thanks. I figured it was just torque... but since I moved my tabs, and have a new found top speed... I wanted to double check.

 

[purple_people_eater]

i don't have to fight mine at all, but mine is not really running right. i'm pretty sure that the PO used cheap kits to rebuild the carbs and i'm pretty sure i need a new wear ring as well. when i try to take off from a dead stop to wot she wants to bog. i'll be shiming my tabs here shortly, all the porpusing is really taking its toll on the family jewels if you guys get my meaning. i'll prob do a write up pictoral on it as well.

 

[bigJake]

What are you guys talking about when you say you are "shimming the tabs"? i read most of the threads just to absorb whatever knowledge I can, but I have no clue what you guys are talking about. TIA for taking the time to explain.

 

[purple_people_eater]

on the x4, they came with stock trim taps to help the stablity of them because they are so light and narrow with a deep v hull to cut the water. however with the stock tabs it makes the nose come up at high plane speeds and the craft will litteraly shoot itself out of the water and "porpuse." now there some way to counter this, one way is to buy and aftermarket set of tabs. however aftermarket tabs add too much material in the water crating drag and killing the ski's jumping ability. so what we are trying to determine if we can shim the stock tabs to match the degree(pitch) of the aftermarket tabs to bring the nose down and not have any negitive effects.

 

[bigJake]

on an x4 they came with stock trim taps to help the stablity of them because they are so light and narrow with a deep v hull to cut the water. however with the stock tabs it makes the nose come up at high plane speeds and the craft will litteraly shoot itself out of the water and "porpuse." now there on way to counter this, one way is to buy and aftermarket set of tabs. however aftermarket tabs add too much material in the water crating drag and killing the ski's jumping ability. so what we are trying to determine if we can shim the stock tabs to match the degree(pitch) of the aftermarket tabs to bring the nose down and not have any negitive effects.

thank you.

 

[soccerdan90]

i'll be shiming my tabs here shortly, all the porpusing is really taking its toll on the family jewels if you guys get my meaning. i'll prob do a write up pictoral on it as well.

You shouldnt really put pictures and write up about you balls man! This site is for jet skis lol sorry I had to put that in! :lol:

 

[purple_people_eater]

You shouldnt really put pictures and write up about you balls man! This site is for jet skis lol sorry I had to put that in! :lol:

ha ha ha you know what i mean

 

[Dr Honda]

You shouldnt really put pictures and write up about you balls man! This site is for jet skis lol sorry I had to put that in! :lol:

As long as it pertains to the X4 skis... that's legit info. :lol:

Jake.... They look like this....

My ski was bouncing at any speed over 35~40 mph, even with the trim down, and my weight over the handlebars. I added an 1/8" shim behind the bolts, and that added about 3 deg down trim. Now... I can sit my fat butt on the thick end of the seat (at the rear) and I can hold the throttle wide open (with the trim in neutral) and the ski will ride nice and flat.

 

[soccerdan90]

As long as it pertains to the X4 skis... that's legit info. :lol:

Oh so as long as he is riding an X4 ski he can do it. I am finally seeing the light! :Angel:

 

[bigJake]

Thanks Tony, the picture really helps.

 

[purple_people_eater]

tony's have been replaced though, but you get the point of the add metal.

 

[Flying96XP]

I was just searching some info on another forum and stumbled on this thread somehow. I had to join. nothing but love for the X4 800. I just bought my 3rd 96XP a week ago and realized how much i missed it! This is the first one ive owned with mods.

nice to see so much respect STILL going for the (IMO) best all around Seadoo to date.

 

[jetmanjo]

Okay, I have read the entire thread, trying to absorb as much info as I can. My brain is pretty much mush now, and hope I can remember half of what I have learned in my brief, but hopefully long X4 experience.

I purchased my Ride for $1,000 (Not running) and bought a Shorlander Trailer for $400. I was given a reciept with all the work a shop did to her nearly a year ago. Here is that list with prices:

1 Used CDI $160
1 Seadoo Key Digital $52
1 Fuel Knob $6
1 Fuel Valve $35
2 Gasket Kit $100
2 Needle Valves $60
1 New Battery $65
1 Used Choke Cable $35
1 Used Gas Cap $15
2 Gal. Gas $8
1 Hazd Waste $10
1 Tax $47

Labor Charges:

Flush Oil from rear cyl $65
Reprogram Key $20
Rebuild Carbs $250
Flus has? $20 (Cant read this?!)
Replace Choke Cable $20
Diagnose Ign. Problem $85

Notes: VTS Does not work, Fuel Guage is not working, Speedo Guage is rusted???

Total Paid: $1,058.72 Dated 8-3-2010

Seems that this repair facility really overcharged some things, especially the carb rebuild! I was only get it to crank a few seperate times. When it did crank, it cranked like it would start if there were fuel and spark. The issue I had, is that it would take about 20-50 repetitive presses on the start button. I jumped the gun, and pulled the starter and had new brushes installed for $90.00 before trying the screw-driver on the Solenoid method of testing. Oh well. Should be a good shape OEM starter for the future. I am going to do some more trouble shooting and testing this weekend with some recomendations that Scott has given me. I will keep you posted, and also get some pictures of her up.

With the work that has been done nearly a year ago, if I can get it started, I hopefully will be in good shape and hope to do a water test with it. I am going to check for grey fuel lines and replace them if it has any. Can anyone tell me what size lines these take, the approx. footage required, and whether I need to use Automotive line, or get the expensive marine grade at nearly $4 per foot?

 

[jetmanjo]

A few X4 questions...

Just a few questions that I would like answers to before I head home (170 Mi.) this weekend to work on my 96 XP.

1. What octane pump gas to you reccomend? Regular, Mid-Grade, or Premium?
2. What band/type of 2 stroke oil is most preferred or reccomended?
3. What is the preferred brand/weight of lubricating oil to use?
4. Can someone give me a brief explanation of the fuel/water seperator. (Its location)
5. Scott, can you post your hose to ski adapter for cooling purposes (When you get a chance)

I have made many notes of other things I have read, and will do some digging in my shop manual as well, but thought it might be easy for someone who knows all this by heart to give me some pointers in these areas. Thanks in advance for the help!

Do shops usually charge you to pull the hours reading off your MPEM?

 

[LouDoo]

I'm surprised that after doing all the work they did especially rebuilding the carbs. that the shop didn't replace the fuel hose. Anyway regular 1/4" automotive hose works best, it's about 1.00 per foot.

Answering your other questions:

1. I use 93 octane whenever I can get it, the reason being I leave my ski's at the lake and the only marina that sells 93 is at the other end of the lake, so I usually end up buying 87 octane. If you trailer your ski I would recommend 91 octane.
2. Injection oil Quicksilver PWC 2 stroke, full synthetic, API-TC rating.
3. The ski doesn't use lubricating oil.
4. The water separator/fuel filter is located above the fuel tank, just unscrew and empty, if its dirty clean with brake clean, or Castrol super clean, do not use carb. cleaner. Also be sure check the O ring.
5. To flush the motor I just made my own adapter hose, cut an old 1/2" washer hose in half and attach to your garden hose, attach to the flush side of the motor, arrow pointing away from the motor.
6. Your dealer is probably going to charge to get the hours from the MPEM, it's up to them how much.

Hope this helps.

Lou

 

[Flying96XP]

I just did my fuel lines. took 21 feet and i bought 25 clamps. Getting non fuel injection fuel line and the clamps totaled out to $26...

If I'm running R&D (power plenum and F.A, 85/88, trim tabs/ride plate, intake grate) Solas XO. What size jetting/pop off do you recommend and where should i go to purchase? I've exhausted the search tool and can not find an answer.

 

[Dr Honda]

Flying96xp. Welcome. The ski look slike it's in good shape. You say that it's your first ski with mods. What's done to it??

Just a few questions that I would like answers to before I head home (170 Mi.) this weekend to work on my 96 XP.

1. What octane pump gas to you reccomend? Regular, Mid-Grade, or Premium?
2. What band/type of 2 stroke oil is most preferred or reccomended?
3. What is the preferred brand/weight of lubricating oil to use?
4. Can someone give me a brief explanation of the fuel/water seperator. (Its location)
5. Scott, can you post your hose to ski adapter for cooling purposes (When you get a chance)

I have made many notes of other things I have read, and will do some digging in my shop manual as well, but thought it might be easy for someone who knows all this by heart to give me some pointers in these areas. Thanks in advance for the help!

Do shops usually charge you to pull the hours reading off your MPEM?

1) I run mid grade. They really don't need premium unless you have a high compression head.
2) You can run any brand you want, as long as it's a certified API-TC, full synthetic oil. I personally use XPS because I get it for a good price locally.
3) brand/wt oil in what?
4) It's under the steering stem. Open the hood... pull the bucket out... and look in above the fuel tank. (you will see it) you can un-thread the bowl.

 

[Flying96XP]

Thanks! The hood needs repaint and the VTS/fuel gauges need the standard fixes but for the price i paid I'm not complaining. Currently It has Renthal bars, UMI switches, R&D Power plenum with their oversized FA, R&D 85/88 Nozzle R&D Rideplates/trimtabs, R&D Grate, Worx Sponsons (decals removed), Solas XO New hydroturf, Rebuilt engine, new fuel lines/filters..currently seeking advice on where/what jets and pop offs would best fit my set up.

 

[jetmanjo]

Lou & Tony,

Thanks for the advice and reccomendations! I am not sure about the grey lines being replaced yet. I read the posts after I last pulled my starter. If they are grey, I am going to by 21' of 1/4 fuel line and clamps before I do much of anything else, just to keep the rebuilt carbs clean.

Lou, that is a great idea of the old washer hose. I am pretty sure I have a couple of them laying around. Just have to find them.

Disregard the lubricating oil ? I thought I saw a pic. of a motor that had been pulled out and there was quite an oily mess that was spilled in the process. I thought it was Oil, but it could have been the pre-mix oil? I know 2 strokes dont use motor oil, but.... Then again, I am extremely new to the Rave Engine. Better safe than sorry I guess.

As far as flushing the engine (I know to turn on AFTER I get it running), does it go where the red cap is above the exhaust? Or do I actually pull one side of that off?

Thanks, I wish I were home working on it right now. I am sure it will all come together once I get the starter back in and have some time to practice what I have learned so far.

How time consuming or dificult is it to replace the fuel baffle. Might be nice to know how much fuel I have left after I get her running. I guess there is always the bring it back with the "Reserve" valve method until I get it fixed!

Approx. how many full tanks can you run through compared to filling the oil tank, or do you just keep them both topped off. (Every time you fuel, do you fill the oil tank?)