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The RFI (Rotax Fuel Injection ) Spot

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its ok to jump your ski from another battery, provided other ski, or vehicle is not running, after all, 12 volts is 12 volts, i have never unplugged my rectifier from ski to charge battery, but, i will never start my ski with a battery charger hooked up, the maintainer i use is just a 1.5 amp maintainer http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Automotive-SpeedCharge-Battery-Maintainer-and-Charger/13005742

this is all anyone really needs, i use it on riding mower, 4 wheeler, its always hooked up on something, if you're not gonna use ski for an extended period of time, i'd recommend to just unhook the negative (black) battery cable and hook up your maintainer, (if you are using a big charger , unhook battery also) --- you should fix your loose connection though, and quit unplugging it right there,

the impeller issue, here is a chart from solas, i like their impellers, have some friends with some fast skis that have them, mine is stock though, if i was going to change, id just go with some (mid range) inpeller, unless you have a built ski (engine with mods), http://impros.com/charts/solas_seadoo.html

also on the rectifier issue, the one im using is listed in another post on this thread, and has been trouble free since like may, and we use ski nearly every weekend here in fla.
 
griz400 said:
Basic fuel system operation -- RFI motors have 5 sensors that provide information to the fuel injection system. 1) throttle position sensor. 2) water temp. 3) air temp. 4) air pressure. 5) crankshaft position sensor. If one of these sensors malfunctions the watercraft will be put into limp mode and will be rev-limited to get the operator back to land.
RFI fuel systems. The fuel system consists of .1) the fuel pump. 2) the fuel pressure regulator. 3) the fuel filter. 4) the fuel level sensor. 5) the fuel injector. Every thing listed here except the fuel injector is located in the fuel pump assembly which is located in the fuel tank. Fuel pressure should be tested while the watercraft is under a load, due to the fact that the fuel pressure can change drastically from just checking it at idle. The correct fuel pressure should be 56-60 psi.
Click to expand...

When you say check it under load, i am assuming you mean in the water. How is that done, do you cut the line and put a gauge in the line? Also the 56-60 lbs is that under load or should it be that constantly?
 
never cut these fuel lines, special lines, that can handle the pressure, i have an adapter that plugs on fuel rail, then plugs on fuel line with a t in line -- here is a pic of a similar one http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/2srco-fuel-pressure-test-port-2005-dodge-caravan.html

then hook it all up, with guage on it, and drive it, on a load means like pull a hole shot, then drive like 50mph, then 40, and fuel pressure will just stay there if its good

i got like 5 different set ups at work, but i believe the one that works is like the one i use one the newer model caravans
 
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no, its just a fuel pressure test set up, you got all that pressure, and alot of volume also, its just a tool if you have a problem, its to eliminate a fuel problem, then move on with diagnostics --- i wouldnt want that kinda leak in the gulf of mexico where we ride ... lol
 
My rebuilt engine is shipped and on the way. While waiting I have completed all of the maintenance that I can think of. Washed and waxed the entire ski, installed new graphics, new traction mats, new seat cover, rebuilt the starter, had the injectors serviced, cleaned out the fuel tank and pump screen, installed new oil injection lines, changed the oil in the jet pump, rebuilt the raves, replaced several water hoses and repacked the trailer wheel bearings. Am I missing anything?
Also after installation it will be sitting until late May/early June. I plan on having everything connected and priming the oil pump and lines. I will spray some fogging oil into the spark plug holes and turn the engine over by hand. I dont want to put any gas into the tank or try to start it until I am able to ride it and break it in.
I know not to add any premix oil to the fuel for break-in on an RFI. Other than riding it slow and varying the throttle position, running for 30 minutes than cooling off for the first tank of gas any other suggestions for break-in?
Thanks.
 
from my notes -- NONE of the engine break-in can be done out of the water!

Proper break-in of your engine is the most critical aspect for determining the longevity and performance of your engine. Engines not properly broken-in will often fail within the first minutes of operation. Ring failure and piston seizure are the most common symptoms of an improper break-in procedure.

During the first 10 gallons of gasoline, there should be NO full throttle operation. First idle the engine for about 10 minutes to ensure that the engine is properly warmed-up. Then begin varying the throttle position up and down, up to 20% throttle for a half hour. Then come back and let the engine cool off completely - it should be a good 30 min break. After it cools down, you may now ride it up to 50% throttle for another half hour or so. Then come back again and let it completely cool down again. Now you can go out and ride up to 90% throttle. Continue this for the remainder of the 10 gallons, never holding one throttle position for more than a few seconds. Do not run at a steady throttle position and do not go to 100% throttle. After your first tank of gas, replace your plugs with fresh ones. For the second tank, you may ride normally with one exception - do not hold it at 100% throttle for more than a few seconds. After the second tank of gas, you are completely broken in and may ride anyway you like.

also, on an rfi, you CANNOT eliminate oil injection system, and never put any oil in your fuel tank, cause it will only be injected on top of the piston, and do nothing but foul your spark plugs, cause air and oil, come in on the other side of your motor through your throttle body, .... i wish you would have replaced the injectors though, being 14 years old, i lost a motor due to an injector washing down the cylinder and destroyed it !! i learned the hard way i guess, .................... lets see some pics !!!
 
Thanks for the info. Rather than buying new injectors I had these serviced by an injector shop, they look brand new. total coat was $45. Do you think I should adjust the oil pump to put out more oil at idle during the break-in or just run it at normal adjustment? I will post some pics of the install when I get going on it.
 
87fd664d.jpg just line up marks on oil pump straight in line,and use the full synthetic oil
:thumbsup: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEA-DOO-2-STROKE-SYNTHETIC-GALLON-OIL-293600133-FREE-SHIPPING-/170846504700 here is pic -- i buy here in brandon fla at barneys for 39.95 gal plus tax :cheers:

with gas close to 4.00 a gal, and the money we put in these skis, im not going to run nothing else, other oils claim they work, but, im a believer in this oil .. probably cause working for dodge over 30 yrs, ive seen substandard parts cause big problems -- like a fram oil filter -- take a mopar oil filter in one hand, and an aftermarket pos in other, and look and feel both, you wouldnt screw the fram on im sure -- not on a $35,000 hemi truck
 
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untitled.jpgi use this pic as an example, this isnt my pump, but see the nut on the cam where cable attaches, look above at silver piece, you will see a slot, then in that little groove is another slot, these 2 slots line up, sorta like 2 flat grooves to put a screwdriver in

click on picture on last post, then click on picture again to blow it up bigger


i added some red to lines now to this pic
 
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312.jpg

Here is a pic of my 99 GTX RFI
 
same year and base color as mine, go to my home page, and i have albums of the graphics on mine , i like when people change it up and make their skis look original ............looks good with the red white and blue
 
was out cleaning and going over my ski, connections with grease, etc, etc. noticed when i went to start it up, had no spark, then looked over everything, (i still had injectors unplugged ) after plugging back in, i had spark , -- was wondering maybe a fail safe thing built into mpem ??? maybe someone can check thiers ... this could help maybe sometime in diagnostics ...
 
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/0280150845-65lb here is a pic, that number you have, i would call them, and have them cross reference it by buddy has a 2000 model, and his was different number also, all he did was call and it superseded to a different number -- the phone number is the link , when i need em, i call and order on the phone .........
 
Hi Griz400. My first visit to this specialized RFI thread. I have a 99 GSX rfi and I have been having problems lately. I will try to be complete and short with symptoms hoping you can point me in the right direction. I was having problems with the ski shutting down while riding. I was directed to DESS post (replaced). Checked all grounds (secured). Checked for metal shavings on mag sensor (found some and removed). Ski is still running but, will sputter, slow up and go faster . Seems like fuel problem but I'm thinking that I have to look in the mag cover for metal shavings on the stator or in the bottom of the cover. I had a rectifier problem and I replaced it with the newer beefed up model. Votage was checked with new rectifier and was 13.8 -14v running. What do you think I can do next to fix this problem? Thanks in advance for your attention.
 
Oh, nice thread. Read a few posts and can already tell I'll be coming back here for issues I have with my RFI. Thank you Griz400 for your time in putting these posts up.
 
Jeff - thanks for taking the time to post this thread for us RFI owners. As you know from my PMs I am completing my rebuild and installed the motor last evening and plan to head into the garage shortly to finish the connections, alignment, etc.
I'll be back later with progress.
Rob
 
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